Loosing coolant from radiator reservoir during not constantly.

[Blue]

What about bad piston?


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[NVW]

Still need a crack or something to allow crankcase pressure to enter the cooling system. A bad piston would just have crankcase pressure putting oil into the cdr or blowing out the oil cap.

 

[Will L.]

As for the cdr and loss of oil, a lot of people opt to vent to the road instead of back into the intake to lessen oil consumption. How much oil do you have to add due to the blowby pushing oil through the intake? Changing the cdr will not in any way help with coolant loss. It's job is to remove excess pressure from the crankcase by burning off the oil fumes through the engine. Does it blow out your dipstick tube hard while engine is running if you pull out the dipstick? If so then you could say you have bad blowby (there is an actual pressure level it i can't remember it right now) If not no worries. This really isn't a concearn wih the water loss, just an indicator of a tired engine.

Autozone and some other parts stores have a tool loan program where you pay for the tool, take it home& use it. Then return for a full refund. You need to get a pressure tester and pump the system up and watch for the leak.

There is a better system out there that uses shop air and pulls the system into a vacuum, then with a hose it sucks coolant back into the system eliminating any air in the system. While it is in a vacuum state, if there are any leaks the vacuum gauge will fall and you can here it sucking air where the leak is. I can't remember name of the thing at the moment, but they are pricey and no-one I know of rents those out.

Sorry about the air bleed confusion, I forgot the trucks are pre-tstat. My hummer is on top of the tstat.

My memory is in the toilet this week from pain killers- bad day to not have on steel toes on last friday and a plate of steel tried chopping off my big toe when a plate clamp failed.

 

[Big T]

One other thing I forgot for coolant leak- a/c dye. Dump in a bottle- it won't hurt a thing. Then after running the engine for the air bleed it will be through out the system. Pull it in the garage and kill the lights and pull out the uv flashlight.or if its dark at night where your at check it out at night time.

I love this idea. Trying to find a coolant leak on my boat with Volvo KAD44 diesel. I ordered a pressure testing kit as I can't get the engine hot enough to open the thermostat while on the trailer. Putting in a/c dye and using a uv flashlight should be the trick. Thanks!

 

[WarWagon]

So your engine is getting hot enough or has combustion gas causing the radiator cap to puke.

1. Test or replace the radiator cap.
2. Suspect plugged radiator from crud behind the oil coolers stuck on condenser. Internally plugged radiator.
3. Bad fan clutch. If it is over 5 years old replace it. Upgrade the fan/clutch to at least the 1998 year while you are at it.
4. Pull thermostat crossover off. Remove belt. Start engine and look for bubbles 2min max. The side(s) that bubble have combustion leaks.

You don't care about any non-combustion leaks as this will not blow coolant out. Unless you have an oil failure from coolant contamination and you will know from engine lockup quick enough if this is the case.

5. Replace water pump with "NEW" 1998+ HO water pump after checking the above. (Reman is a rebuilt with the balance flow issue pump.) Reason is the water pump already has a balance flow issue from the factory where the passenger side gets less coolant flow. As they age they can get bad enough to overheat and boil the passenger side while the driver side ECT gauge probe reads "normal". Weirdest damn thing to see engine boiling over and gauge reads fine.