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Long, slow build of my truck

I was in the passenger seat when the truck was on the rollers, and it was in OD with the TCC locked up. Ill be the first to admit I dont know much about dynos or auto transmissions, but I think it was kosher.
 
3500_6.5 said:
I always wonder about that xx% loss through a transmission. I find it hard to believe that at 100hp an engine will lose 30hp but a 1000hp engine running through the exact same tranny would lose 300hp. I would think that the percentage of loss would go down the more hp your engine is putting out. Just a thought though.

Good numbers though to show what kind of hp/tq you really gain from these tunes. And that was with a better turbo too so I would imagine running a stock turbo would result and lower numbers.


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Not all automatics have the same slippage and vary widely because of tune, wear etc. I posted an article about dyno results when running automatics on pg 13 of this thread.

The next part of the equation is the torque converters multiplication factor which is the times the actual torque out put of the engine to the point of stall speed then this number quickly falls off.
 
pacificdrumma said:
Im not so sure about the turbo thing. I friend of mine ran a Heath tune with an HX40WII and he said he was OK, but the truck screwed with the GM-5 he had before. But he said his EGT's were thru the roof with the GM. I hit 1200* on the dyno, previously it hadn't gone above 1125 in daily driving/romping on it.
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How about IAT unless there is a blower in front of the dyno rollers that can force enough air over the vehicle cooling stack to simulate airflow at highway speed your building performance killing heat.
 
FellowTraveler said:
How about IAT unless there is a blower in front of the dyno rollers that can force enough air over the vehicle cooling stack to simulate airflow at highway speed your building performance killing heat.
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Not sure of IAT, do not have a gauge for that (yet) but yes, big fan in front of the truck, hood open. Good airflow
 
Does anyone know if a Heath ECM comes with TDCO preset or is going to be the same offset as whatever my truck was before?
 
After the ECM re-learns the IP's position, not sold that mounting the IP 'advanced' makes a difference for 99.99% of driving as the code controls the advance and effectively overrides the physical IP orientation.

Still remain in the camp that to advance timing on a DS4, need to do it through the code (tune) and just mount the IP in the OE orientation.
 
If it didn't affect it then it wouldn't throw a code and/or give a no start condition when it is too far advanced or retarded. If the ecm 100% controlled timing, there would be no adjustment. The ecm controls timing, but the timing is programmed in based off of certain parameters.

I don't do programming, but one would assume that tdco is similar to setting base timing on old distributor gas engines. Whatever you set the timing to is the "zero" the timing starts from. The further advanced the starting point is, the further advanced the entire timing curve will be. I agree that you will get best results from proper programming of the timing though. If it is actually programmed specifically for you vehicle, then best performance should be whatever tdco was during programming. But no internet ordered program is going to be vehicle specific, so fine tuning timing with the tdco may be a way to boost performance.

One would assume that Heath would be slightly conservative on timing considering it is a generic tune for a broad range of vehicles, most of which are just being slapped in by every day people and getting ran how they sit. Wouldn't expect him to go wild and start having careless people melt engines and blame it on his programming.


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On the subject of melting engines, the truck does run a touch on the hot side with the tune. Granted, I dont know what my EGT's were prior to the tune, but just driving around I can hit 800-1000 very easily. Havent seen higher than 1200 yet, and that was on the dyno.
 
Put the lid to the K47 back on and egts now take a little longer to reach 1000. Not sure if its related or my imagination.

Ordered some boots and clamps from siliconeintakes.com again, gonna finally use my Peninsular upper intake.

11825566_10205002573327231_286226165514789227_n.jpg
 
Got the intake on. Wasnt sure what to do for IAT, MAP, and boost pickups, so I went right into the back of the manifold. Its pretty sloppy, but works. It will get redone in the near future. For some reason, I am now seeing 22psi on shifts, which I never saw before. If anything, I would think that increasing the size of the upper intake would reduce boost (on the idea that when volume increases, pressure decreases) anyway, it seems to go just as well as it did before.

I am typing this from Cape Cod, I drove up the Mass Pike, to 495 to Rt. 6 on Sunday, averaged about 68mph on 90 and 495, and about 55mph on 6. 156mi on 6.6gal of fuel, 23.6mpg!!!! I was happy as a clam to see that number.

Here's a pic of the intake. Don't laugh lol

11811579_10205012756261798_5006406933660883223_n.jpg
 
Awesome mileage! If you felt like it you could pull the lower intake and drill and tap it for your sensors, but yeah the rest of the install sure looks nice, good job.
 
Jorge6.5 said:
Cool. I didn't know those upper manifolds could be mounted that way. I thought they had to point to the left or right like in leroys pic.
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Ordinarily, yes. However, they can be made to mount as I have it by using some sort of adapter. Leroy makes them in the form of an aluminum box. My friend's dad writes CNC-type files for a living, and was able to draw up a file for my adapter. It was then cut on a plasma table into a piece of 3/16" steel.
 
Found a used A Team Turbo for sale on Syracuse craigslist and had a buddy pick it up. Figured for $140 I couldn't go wrong. Installed on the truck tonight. Big difference compared to HX35, and I am not sure I will be keeping the ATT. Details of mods are below, but basically its intake, exhaust, FRC10, and Heath tune. The HX would make 22psi at 1100* when under full, hard, sustained acceleration. The ATT under those same conditions makes 13psi at..... 1250*!!!!! I know that they are known for lower boost compared to Holsets but my god that seems like a high EGT number. Only time I have seen the HX get past 1100 was when it hit 1200 on the dyno. Granted, it does pull harder on the top end vs the HX but something just doesnt seem right. I am thinking it is the tune. When I had Heath write the tune, I was running the Holset, and told them I was running it. Perhaps the tune for an ATT is vastly different? Need some guidance from the ATT vets as I am stumped and slightly unhappy with the performance of this turbo.
 
While I certainly can't speak from experience, I would think a tune dialed in for an HX35 would be very different from one for the larger non gated ATT. Was the turbo in good shape?

Matt
 
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