I didnt have time for my classic long answer before.
Leroy has the best service around along with good price and follow up support.
Frb5.
Feed it with a relay so plenty of voltage via heavy wire to keep it happy and power the relay from ignition source. Add a switch so you can fill your filter housing after filter changes. If you don't know how to build that, He sells them too. On 6.5 trucks It is normally powered off an oil pressure sensor so that if the engine dies in a crash, the fuel doesn't keep pumping all over. Mount the pump as close to the tank as possible. Remember pumps like to pump, pumps don't like to suck.
A lot of guys like to remove the in tank fuel sock and use a pre LP filter to catch the big stuff.
Losing the mechanical Lp is a good thing imo. Add a fuel gauge that is reading the pressure after the fuel filter and before the IP. While your at it, replace the IP 1/4" return line with clear tubing where it comes out the front of your IP. THis is to see bubbles at an instant for future diagnostics, and will save much guessing time if you are sucking air or not.
Loose the mechanical pump and the pushrod so it removes the slap off the camshaft. Extra room to work is nice.
Other than the clear return line mentioned above which will need replacing every few years, use sae30R9 fuel line. It is rated for all the bio fuel and methanol that is in 99.9% of all diesel fuel now.