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Lift Pump

MAGNUM SERVICES

Intelligence Guided By Experience
Messages
572
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Location
Covington,Kentucky
Would a Lift Pump still run but not supply Fuel to the engine? Mine sounds normal but I have no Fuel coming out of the Fuel filter bleeder.
 
Yup, happens all the time. The rubber seal inside the pump wears out, the motor driving it still works, but no more seal means no more fuel. Like Leroy said, could be restriction to it, so disconnect the input side of the pump. 3-5 psi into the tank and make sure you have good fuel flow out the line without any garbage. good clean flow= new pump time. Flow on fail pump means truck still runs, just harder starts, less hiway efficiency, and shortened ip life.

Any debris means drop and clean the tank, loose the sock and add an exterior prefilter. Then check pump again.

With a ds4 ip I would definitely upgrade to a better pump and filter set up. The added pressure extends the ip life a good deal. No matter what you do I would add a fuel pressure gauge in the system -instant diagnosis.
 
Good advice especialy on the gauge part. They IMO are the most important gauge to have under normal daily driving.
 
Not only does the seal wear out - it isn't compatible with biodiesel and some states don't label pumps below 5% biodiesel. So you can figure this into the failure mode of OEM lift pumps. I suggest a better lift pump like a Walbro although they aren't infallible.

It's possible to vapor lock a diesel with a restriction. Check out these tank socks and prefilters:

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...wth-in-ULSD-and-Biodiesel-This-can-affect-you!
 
The other thing to realize is that the LP can barely work - due to component wear, restrictions, etc - and the truck will still run (the IP will 'suck' fuel, to a point).

In cases where the truck is trying to get more fuel than what the LP can provide, you start getting power loss, stalling, missing, etc. When my LP was on the way out, I had fuel pressure... until I got a load on the back and put the foot on the floor. Then the Fuel Pressure went into the negative numbers.

As indicated above, having a fuel pressure gauge is a great idea.
 
The new fuel filter with integrated retainer made by Wix (also sold as Napa brand) does not have a hole at the top bleeder valve.
They make it look like the filter but it is non functional.

Not sure in what context you are asking the question but just in case you are trying to bleed air in fuel after changing fuel filter with the filter above.
This is your answer.
 
Bought the Truck used in 2000, New IP in '06 along with a remote PMD (under front bumper), ran fine until '08 and then it started quitting as the fuel level got low, wound up installing New Tank (as the lining was deteriorating) along with Fuel Gauge Pick Up & New Sock & Lift Pump with a Gauge (Mr. Gasket) located by the Thermostat Housing, ran fine until this past summer, then same symptoms now as back in '08 (stalling at low fuel level) and eventually wouldn't start, no fuel out of the Bleeder and Gauge needle is stuck so I dropped the tank on Sat. Aug. 16th and it looks just like when I installed it so I am looking for a Liquid Filled Gauge to handle the vibration and I presume another Lift Pump and a Pre-Filter, any recommendations? THANK YOU for ALL of your replies!
 
Of course I have a recomendation see here http://www.leroydiesel.com/Fuel_Delivery.html Walbro is a good choice, the Raptor is really nice. I just installed one and could sell the fittings so you won't need to cut original hard lines as Raptor suggest. Will require the FFM inlet to be taped for 1/4" npt.

On the FSU you installed, most likely is has the wrong sock on it. It a generic sock they put on them all. Diesel seems to be restricted by them. Not sure if its the bioD thats making them stop up??
Further down in the link is a fuel filter and mount.
 
Have you replaced the last ditch screen in the ffm? Did you leave the sock on when you did the tank? Chuck that friggin thing!

Yeah, follow Leroy's suggestion.
 
The "sock" was brand new with the fuel pick up assembly and it has been in the tank since '08, never ever purchased Bio Diesel before, usually comes from United Dairy Farmers which is a Cincinnati based food/fuel store which sell Mobil Fuels, I buy a lot of Gas there for everything I own with no problems so I buy my Diesel there too, I have an old Delco Lift Pump in my garage I am going to try after removing the sock and re-installing the tank to see if it starts, if it does start and run then I will buy the kit from Leroy that I checked out on the Link he provided, by the way, any suggestions on a liquid filled Pressure Gauge?
 
I'm not buying the bio-diesel connection to failing lift pumps. I've been running between 5 and 90% since I've been able to have it delivered in the 1990's. I've gone through very few lift pumps in the 2 million miles we have put on our vehicles. I almost always have used AC Delco for a 1993. Or GM a few times


Not only does the seal wear out - it isn't compatible with biodiesel and some states don't label pumps below 5% biodiesel. So you can figure this into the failure mode of OEM lift pumps. I suggest a better lift pump like a Walbro although they aren't infallible.

It's possible to vapor lock a diesel with a restriction. Check out these tank socks and prefilters:

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...wth-in-ULSD-and-Biodiesel-This-can-affect-you!
 
The "sock" was brand new with the fuel pick up assembly and it has been in the tank since '08, never ever purchased Bio Diesel before, usually comes from United Dairy Farmers which is a Cincinnati based food/fuel store which sell Mobil Fuels, I buy a lot of Gas there for everything I own with no problems so I buy my Diesel there too, I have an old Delco Lift Pump in my garage I am going to try after removing the sock and re-installing the tank to see if it starts, if it does start and run then I will buy the kit from Leroy that I checked out on the Link he provided, by the way, any suggestions on a liquid filled Pressure Gauge?

I always double check a lift pump by trying to pump from one container to another after I have it off. If it pumps you need to look further for your problem. If it doesn't pump you've only wasted 5 minutes
 
Bio will absolutely tear up regular rubber. Look at some of the fuel hoses that get gummy/soft with bio use.
 
Bio will absolutely tear up regular rubber. Look at some of the fuel hoses that get gummy/soft with bio use.

True. But if Bio destroys lift pumps, why haven't I been going through them left and right the past 20 years? 8 vehicles total and very few fuel issues. I had to change the filter on the 1989 C2500, the 1975 Ford backhoe and the International when I first started using BIO. But no real problems after that.

I started out at a low percentage and worked my way up to 11% minimum after about 3 tanks.

I filled a friends John Deere tractor up here that did not use bio. Plugged every filter. Out of the same tank that I use all the time for everything without issue.

There may be different bio-diesel grade nationwide. Around here we use mostly Soy oil. I have also used processed WVO.
 
True. But if Bio destroys lift pumps, why haven't I been going through them left and right the past 20 years?

I filled a friends John Deere tractor up here that did not use bio. Plugged every filter. Out of the same tank that I use all the time for everything without issue.

There may be different bio-diesel grade nationwide. Around here we use mostly Soy oil. I have also used processed WVO.

Don't know, luck??

I have forgotten so much about bio, but yeah there are very inconsistant batches of bioD's out there. Depends alot on the base oil that was started with. Some have methonol still in it, some might have lye still in it....ect

On aside note I hate that bio can be added to diesel at the pump, but they charge the same and you don't get the MPGs as straight #2.
Same thing for gas, WTF are they thinking!!? adding Ethonol. It contributes more to polution because we have to use more fuel to go same distance, not to mention all the other negitives it brings :pissed:
 
I never noticed much loss in MPG's. I always thought they should mandate at least 4% bio in every gallon to reduce our dependence on the always stabile middle east
 
The only reason they want to add it is because its higher profit for them. If they can make more money and market it as doing good for the envoronment or for political reasons (even though its really just for higher profit) then its a win, win.

It would be good if the customer could buy bio at whatever % he wants at the pump simular to the additives some stations try to sell.

It bothers me that oil companies want to charge the same or more as dino fuels. Their cost have to be much less with bio. Its a recycled product, they dont have to get it out of the ground, the process they use cost them pennies a gallons.....ect

I loved using WVO in my truck and support Bio fuels, just don't charge me the same as regular #2 if your going to cut it with cheaper fuel without the same BTU potential. Bio does not have the same energy in it as #2.
Simularly is Propane, I run propane in my gasser but that fuel is $2/gal. It was $1.39/gal last summer, but over the winter last year they jacked it up. Now that summer is here though the price did not go back down!! The cost to bring it to market must be much higher than bioD???
 
I've never purchased Bio Diesel before unless the Station is blending it and not notifying the Consumer on the Pump, didn't think about stuff growing in my Fuel BUT I do run a Quart of Power Service Cetane Boost in every fill up so I hope that would take care of algae or anything else living in my fuel, do any of you have a suggestion on a Liquid Filled Fuel Pressure Gauge that will stand up to the engine and driving vibrations?
 
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