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KOKO trouble

you'll need to use a scanner to clear them for 96+ obd2. which scanner do you use? I have heard some say the generic scanners can trigger unwanted things when clearing codes with them. I had a toyota 4runner and used one to clear codes, it reset the "center of balance" in the ecm where the brake hold stopped working when you pull up to a stop at an incline plus messed with the traction control too. it is possible using one to clear codes can clear out the TDC offset and cause it want to do a relearn cycle.
 
Any body really know how to figure out which resisitor it should have? neither of the pmd's on the truck have one,.we are thinking we have to play resistor roulette, and try different ones,. it definitely is stuck in this never ending tdco loop,. and we can't cancel it,..
weird.
WE are also thinking the stepper might not be working properly,.
With the price of diesel,. it is pretty much time to retire the old girl,. even colored fuel is "spensive,.......
 
most came with a #4 or #5. mine had a #4 in the original PMD mounted to the IP some guys will go with the #9 since it gives a slight amount of more fuel at WOT. other than that, it really doesn't matter which one you use, just has to have one.
 
1st off, you still need a scanner that can display the tdc offset to do the manual tdc offset with the throttle pedal and key sequence. I know some say obd2 doesn't need the resistor, but I have personnally seen obd2 6.5l trucks code after doing a relearn after so many starts. Not all obd2 6.5's will do the relearn.

It sounds to me like you learned a new value that it doesnt like, and you need a high end scan tool to correct it. It's been probably 10 years since I did one with the key and pedal sequence, but iirc it should either learn a new value, or exit the relearn after 45 seconds.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
1st off, you still need a scanner that can display the tdc offset to do the manual tdc offset with the throttle pedal and key sequence. I know some say obd2 doesn't need the resistor, but I have personnally seen obd2 6.5l trucks code after doing a relearn after so many starts. Not all obd2 6.5's will do the relearn.

It sounds to me like you learned a new value that it doesnt like, and you need a high end scan tool to correct it. It's been probably 10 years since I did one with the key and pedal sequence, but iirc it should either learn a new value, or exit the relearn after 45 seconds.
Click to expand...

thank s for this info,. my tin pot code reader does nothing,. i do have a 'guy' he has a fairly advanced scanner programmer,. its a blue tooth something,..
Interesting your comment about the 45 sec limit,. to be honest its chugs and burns blue,(definitely retarded) and i,m not sure we have left it alone for the full 45 secs,. it has given a P1214 code after it stalled a couple of time,. i honestly don't remember the screen i was looking at from the pass seat,. but i did see 2.54 somewhere,. i know i should have payed more attention,.. as i have know idea what that value was pertaining to. but really i was hoping for things to just return to the way they were,..
It has been running fine again,. as long as it stays under 170,. after it has shut off and heat soaked a bit, it will try the relearn again, until i rev it up fairly aggressively and it "kicks back on" for want of a better description,. i think it could be the death knell for the old girl,. i love my 6.5, but it's very hungry expensive child these days,..i do have a 5068 i have been meaning to put on along with the hx 35,. to be combined with one of johns tunes,. but the price of fuel puts a big damper on things diesel,..

Thanks for everybody suggestions idea's and help
 
It would be best to get its bad habits figured out before installing any other components.
If it is actually going into timing relearn, that most likely would be a problem with the PCM and not the actual ip. But how to get it advanced out of that relearn mode would be a real stumper for Me.
 
so i put some batteries back in today,. it was really tough to start,. rocked and rolled and spewed smoke no pedal input at all,. I have a 5 resistor in the pmd now. after it gets warmish? it will suddenly switch 'on' and idle nicely with no smoke. i let it idle for an hour,. then i took it for a little drive , and as soon as the temp hit 170 ish,. troubles all back again,. Todays question,. does anyone know the correct resistor value to trick the ecm to thinking its over 170? i know quadstar sells a plug in unit,. but by the time it get here its kinda expensive and i,m very poor these days. i have a bag of resistors,. it would be handy to be able to clear any codes trick it to 170f+ and then try this again,.. I haven't been able to find an ecm for a "good" price just to check see if its the problem,. My guy with the fancy scanner (snap on) says it might work if we wipe the ecm and reflash it,. ha has access to all ecm programs from gm using the trucks vin #
So does anyone know the correct resistance to use to trick the ecm temp input?

Thanks for any help
Ps another guy said that theres something worn in the pup and its hanging up?
 
for tricking the ECT sensor, the easiest way is to ohm it out while it's at or around the temp you want. Then rig up a string of resistors totaling that reading and verify with a scanner reading data.

but do be advised the snap-on scanner is known to show inaccurate data especially for the TDC offset. If you guy that has the scanner has access to flash these ECM's he should have a tech 2. afaik a GM tech 2 is the only one that can flash new programming on the vehicle. I'm sure GM pushed some updates out for your rig. it might be worth while to have him re-flash yours with any updates and see how it acts.
 
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dbrannon79 said:
for tricking the ECT sensor, the easiest way is to ohm it out while it's at or around the temp you want. Then rig up a string of resistors totaling that reading and verify with a scanner reading data.
Click to expand...
that a good idea,. put a sensor into the hot water on the stove and do it that way mebbe,.. quadstar sells a piece to plug in,. but the ohms are top secret,.. unless by chance there is somebody out there has one and can check it for me? To wipe the ecm and install a factory program is a exactly what i want to do,. biggest thing is truck is not insured,. or plated and won't run right as soon as it gets warm,.. with the way things are these days money wise,. i,m trying to do this on a poor boy budget,.. there seems to be little to none extra for fixing projects,. so the old girl just sits there watching the impending winter coming,..
 
The sad continuing saga,. i bought another ecm,.. did the security relearn and voila she fired right up! Well the truth is i had to hot wire the fuel pump,. but it did start with the old ecm ran poorly tho,. i got it half warm then switched ecm's afte the alloted 3X10 min learns,. it fired right up. Then i let it sit for about an hor and a half,. and started it just for fun all good! BUT,..i tried again after another 2 hrs and crank over no fire,. so i made sure i had fuel,. made sure glow plugs are cycling,. still no fire,. not even a kick. i am so depressed. The last time this happened to me about 10 yrs ago i had to change the pump itself,. The only one i have left is the 5068.
 
Have you cracked any of the injector lines to see if there is fuel pumping? I can't remember, did you install a clear line on the IP return? if so is there any air in the line?
 
dbrannon79 said:
Have you cracked any of the injector lines to see if there is fuel pumping? I can't remember, did you install a clear line on the IP return? if so is there any air in the line?
Click to expand...
i,m a bit past the air in the lines idea,. when it ran it ran as good as ever,. i,ve had 6.5's since 1996 and have chased air in the system with rusty lines etc,. even if there air in the fuel it will"kick" on 1or 2 cylinders,. Now it rolls over and not so much as a try on any cylinder,.
The trouble is bubbling tho,. i noticed that no matter how many times i turn the key on, the dash is acting weird,. the sis and wts lights just fade to black within a second or so,. security light goes after 2 secs, but the dash turn signal lights are now on with the key,. so either its cooked a ground or its fried a fusible link Or the passlock module is messed up,.
Has anyone wired an ecm to work for a standalone harness i.e running a 6.5 on the stand (floor of the shop) ? i am leaning towards wiring seperate power and grounds to the ecm, on a switch,
 
I would be looking at a ground issue. if all the ECM grounds look good, you can try the body grounds. an easy check would be to use a set of jump cables both clamps on the ground of the battery and the other ends one to the frame/body and one on the block. don't crank just key on and see if there is any change in the dash lights.
 
How about the battery cables ? I didnt go back through the thread to read if there is new cables.
I took my old cables to the NAPA store and they made me a set of new cables with the top post terminals.
I dont remember the cosf, for some reason about $135.00 sticks in my head.
Also, how about the shut off solenoid ? Is it getting battery voltage and is it fully functioning ?
 
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