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Intercooler Location

We were discussing with "6.2turbo" and have decided to go with the filler to the bottom of the frost plugs. We will install a cam, crank&girdle and the heads to minimize distortion of block.
 
IIRC Bill fills his to within about an inch of the deck. to the bottom of the freeze plugs will only give you about 11/2-2" which imo won't do much
 
never filled a block but I have played with lots of cement which is what block filler is. a piece as small as your talking about could be broke with your bare hands. not enough mass/volume to have any strength. and with expansion and contraction rates being so dissimilar it won't adhere to the block very long. so it will end up being just a loose piece of brittle cement
 
that's def a diff product than others I've read about. I still can't see a short fill helping much with our 6.5 block issues. It is your money so go for it.
 
our intention is partially for a more rigid bottom end and partially to deaden harmonics of the block.....harmonics are probably one of the factors that cause these blocks to crack........ on a side note, a tall fill is for sure better on a motor that has 35psi of boost being pushed into it and being wound out at 4000rpm..... it stops the cylinders from being pushed out of round from the intense pressure creating a better seal for the rings..... but there is always the cooling issues and heat transfer issues (oil temp) of every day driving/pulling/working.... but a tall fill is a great addition for a truck that is used 1 or 2 times a year for racing and such.... idling in traffic.... not so good.
 
I understand where your coming from but after a chat with Bill a year or so ago he told me all the blocks he builds get the tall fill racing or not. My issue with the tall fill is no block heaters. He feels that most of the heat generated by the idi engines is in the heads.
 
ak diesel driver said:
I understand where your coming from but after a chat with Bill a year or so ago he told me all the blocks he builds get the tall fill racing or not. My issue with the tall fill is no block heaters. He feels that most of the heat generated by the idi engines is in the heads.
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x2 on the block heaters.... we live in northern quebec and we need the heaters.... that is factored into it as well... we have done some home work on this since last year, the main reason we dont want to fill it to the top is also the oil is cooled by transfer of the water in the jackets..... by the way i apoligize to the OP for high-jacking his thread..... but in a way this is good for him as well, seeing he had mentioned hard-blok a couple pages ago...lol
 
A temperature probe placed in the block would give a good comparison to head temps.

A circ. heater is an option.
 
No need to worry, keep the conversation going!! I like hearing everyone's thoughts! :) BTW, this Hard-blok that I mentioned, what does it cost for a low fill and a tall fill? Economics are going to drive my bottom end building unfortunately so price is important to me ha. Also, turbonator, you said you were adding a cam to help block harmonics??? explain please :)
 
The cam install, along with a crank and girdle torqued in, is just to try to keep the block deformation to a minimum while the filler hardens. This will hopefully reduce machining required after. Heads will be installed and torqued as soon as filler is in the block for the same reasons.
 
oh ok, so how long does the filler take to completely cure? If it takes a long time that may be out of the question then for me. and you mentioned machining, does the filler surface need to be machined after curing? And as for crank, are you getting an aftermarket scat crank? Sorry for all the questions, I am just intrigued ha. I am now on the lookout for a 351 turbo :) thank you!
 
after reading up on the hardblok site they claim you can machine within 24 hrs. The idea is to do any machining of the block after the block filler has set so as to machine out any stresses/variation induced by the block filler
 
What needs to be machined after the filler is set up? You said that machining after helps to eliminate stress induced by the curing filler, which I understand, but what type of machining is required? Does it just need shined up or rounded or??
 
vdb11 said:
What needs to be machined after the filler is set up? You said that machining after helps to eliminate stress induced by the curing filler, which I understand, but what type of machining is required? Does it just need shined up or rounded or??
Click to expand...

Line boring the mains is one I believe, not sure about the cylinders.
 
most people who do a block fill usually do a full on machining job just to make sure everything is exactly right. which means genrally just performance oriented people
 
oh ok I see, sounds expensive ha, but I guess you gotta spend money if you want results. I'm just trying to figure out what method of strengthening the bottom end has the most bang for my buck without risking harm to the block and crank. Eventually I would like to do an aftermarket turbo, head studs, WMI, plus a high performance IP to hopefully push 330-350 hp at the crank, which I know is well past the safe point of the bottom end, so getting that up to snuff will have to happen before I do anything more. Anyways thanks for the ideas! Keep them coming!
 
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