Injector Tick - Unknown quality?

[coxpn2]

It appears my headgasket project was successful, as I've got some miles on the truck and she seems to run good and not use coolant.

However, I've got a slight tick/knock at idle, which I'm suspecting is an injector. It doesn't sound like a ticking injector line, just a slight interruption in the smooth growl/purr of the motor. I wish I could describe it, but its something like a tick/knock/miss/hiccup. Hopefully that narrows it down!! ha, that info is probably useless.

The injectors that are in it are from the engine I had laying around from the suburban. The PO said he bought all new parts 15k ago and built the engine, so I assumed they were injectors that were new with 15k on them. However, he also put a used crank in, so I suppose his definition of "new" could be rebuilt. They are Bosch, and I believe they have Germany on them also. I figured they were in better shape than the ones with 165k on them in the engine I did the headgasket on, so I put them in.

My question is; how can I know anything about the condition of the injectors? It seems to run good... I know you can get them tested, but pulling them out and sending them somewhere isn't really an option. I also know you can 'crack' a line to try and narrow down which one is the offending injector.

I am in desperate need of glow plugs/glow plug work/etc, as she starts really hard when it's cold. So I figure it would be the perfect time to try and narrow down what is making this noise.

I might be getting a little too particular doing this, but little things bother me. Personally, I love the sound of a smooth running 6.5, and the little tick COMPLETELY ruins it. Maybe it is something, maybe it's not.

Any thoughts?

 

[ak diesel driver]

how many miles since you got it back together?

 

[NVW]

http://www.enghmotors.com/ This is a useful scanner for the 94-95 6.5's. You can shut off individual injectors.

Try some 2 stroke or 30wt oil in the fuel, it may help free whats causing it to stick. I've also heard of a tin flap of some kind on the turbo that can cause a noise.

 

[coxpn2]

how many miles since you got it back together?

Not too many; maybe 400-500?

http://www.enghmotors.com/ This is a useful scanner for the 94-95 6.5's. You can shut off individual injectors.

Try some 2 stroke or 30wt oil in the fuel, it may help free whats causing it to stick. I've also heard of a tin flap of some kind on the turbo that can cause a noise.

I have been eyeing that program up for awhile... eventually I'll pull the trigger and buy it, but need to take care of some other stuff before some money frees up for it.

I'm running about 12 oz. of cheap 2 stroke oil per tank, nothing else.

I'll feel around the turbo, but last time I was working with it the bolts holding that shroud on were tight + rusted on. I'll see if it's loose though...

 

[JMJNet]

I know you can get them tested, but pulling them out and sending them somewhere isn't really an option. I also know you can 'crack' a line to try and narrow down which one is the offending injector.

I think you answer your own question and the unwillingness to take it out is really?

Another is using GMTDScanTech to shut down injector one at a time but there is really nothing better than doing a pop test on the injector.

 

[coxpn2]

I think you answer your own question and the unwillingness to take it out is really?

Another is using GMTDScanTech to shut down injector one at a time but there is really nothing better than doing a pop test on the injector.

Mainly because the truck would be down for the time it takes to pull and test them. It is a daily driver for my wife, and I fear that if it's non-operational more than it is operational, we're going to be searching for another truck... :/

 

[JMJNet]

It is tough when it is a daily driver vehicle.

There is another thread that has similar problem with yours, you may want to do similar task on what he has done.

At least trying to isolate where the tick comes from.

 

[coxpn2]

Do you mean the one titled 'bad injector?'.

 

[JMJNet]

Do you mean the one titled 'bad injector?'.

Yes.

Also make sure there is no leak on the injector body or return lines.

There were a thread a while back about all the injectors having the same body from Bosch but the nozzle are not Bosch or anything up to the quality.

If you can at least narrow down which injector, you don't have to take out all injectors, just the culprit injector and test it.

 

[ak diesel driver]

or swap it with another and see if it follows the injector

 

[coxpn2]

Thanks for the info guys! Now I've got a no-crank situation, so it looks like I'll be pulling the inner fender off this weekend and doing the following:
- cleaning starter terminals
- cleaning/adding grounds
- pulling/testing/replacing glow plugs
- checking starter solenoid, possible starter swap (I've got a spare)
- and trying to figure out what is making the noise that I'm trying to track down.

Crank issue I'm having is it won't crank when you turn the key. Lights stay on and everything, and I hear a slight 'click', but no crank. However, if you hold the key in the 'crank' position it will start cranking after a second or 2. Hardly noticeable delay when truck is warm, but really bad when truck has been sitting and is cold. And since its been basically 0 degrees F here for a couple days... no good. (I did get it started yesterday without plugging it in. She wasn't happy, but fired up after a little bit... smoked a lot though.)

 

[JMJNet]

Load test the batteries one at a time?

May be fuel gelling.

 

[coxpn2]

I'm open to ideas, but I'm not sure how, if the truck cranks over fine (when it cranks) load testing the batteries would tell me anything? It spins over quick, even when its 0 deg. F...

Same stance on fuel gelling - how would that be related to the issues that I'm having?

 

[Will L.]

If your headlights are staying bright when you try to crank, no crank and the lights don't dim even a little, swap out the starter for your spare. Sounds exactly like a faulty solenoid. Wait, test for a good ground to the starter. The + can carry through regardless of a bad ground. Simple ohms test between starter housing and block. If its a good ground then swap em out.

If you have a helper, hook up a meter to the start wire at the starter and have someone hit the key to verify there is power there. No power then leave the starter, check fuses, fuse able link, ignition switch, etc.

 

[WarWagon]

Use a long test wire w/o a friend and put the volt meter on the windshield.
You must have 9V at the solenoid and ~10-11V at the starter battery wire. Starter spinning or not the battery wire voltage I am fuzzy on. The starter can be 'jammed' and still draw the voltage down. Bad brushes or burnt contacts in the starter are possible. I got 2 rebuilt starters that would spin only on 3 of 4 tries. (I hate swapping starters!)
Battery connections esp at the positive post can be an issue.

You have a 15 year old vehicle. Plan on a 'spare' vehicle or a rental car now and then as it will make your life easier. You need to take the time to do things right the first time. It appears there is always time to do things over, but, never time to do it right the first time. :dunno:

Post a video (youtube etc) of the sound if you can. It would help some of us maybe narrow it down.
I use a stethoscope to narrow down the area of noise.
Off the top of my head:
flexplate cracked
Converter bolts loose
Muffler or cat coming apart
nylon button broken causing dead miss
injector sticking open - these melt a piston...

 

[coxpn2]

If your headlights are staying bright when you try to crank, no crank and the lights don't dim even a little, swap out the starter for your spare. Sounds exactly like a faulty solenoid. Wait, test for a good ground to the starter. The + can carry through regardless of a bad ground. Simple ohms test between starter housing and block. If its a good ground then swap em out.

If you have a helper, hook up a meter to the start wire at the starter and have someone hit the key to verify there is power there. No power then leave the starter, check fuses, fuse able link, ignition switch, etc.

Will do. And even though I cleaned the battery terminals I didn't clean the grounds to the block. (Thought about it later, and realized that's how the starter grounds...)

Use a long test wire w/o a friend and put the volt meter on the windshield.
You must have 9V at the solenoid and ~10-11V at the starter battery wire. Starter spinning or not the battery wire voltage I am fuzzy on. The starter can be 'jammed' and still draw the voltage down. Bad brushes or burnt contacts in the starter are possible. I got 2 rebuilt starters that would spin only on 3 of 4 tries. (I hate swapping starters!)
Battery connections esp at the positive post can be an issue.

You have a 15 year old vehicle. Plan on a 'spare' vehicle or a rental car now and then as it will make your life easier. You need to take the time to do things right the first time. It appears there is always time to do things over, but, never time to do it right the first time. :dunno:

Post a video (youtube etc) of the sound if you can. It would help some of us maybe narrow it down.
I use a stethoscope to narrow down the area of noise.
Off the top of my head:
flexplate cracked
Converter bolts loose
Muffler or cat coming apart
nylon button broken causing dead miss
injector sticking open - these melt a piston...

Also will check/do. I got a stethoscope for Christmas, so I'll put it to work! And good point on doing things right the first time... I'm young (ish), but learning Have learned this lesson many times in the past, but doesn't seem to stick for some reason. Ha.

One question on what you say though:
1) What is the nylon button causing dead miss?

Thanks guys!

 

[ak diesel driver]

rocker arm button pops out allowing the rocker arm to slip off the pushrod

 

[coxpn2]

Figured I'd follow up on this one quick. I still haven't tracked down the injector tick (was dealing with air in the fuel for awhile which was enough of a project...)

It still has the tick, which seems to be a little more pronounced when it's warm out. I'll see what if I can track down which one it is, even though it is pretty intermittent. I've also got a guy I know that is really proficient with the 6.5... might get his thoughts before I get too carried away.

I'll report back when it gets warm and I can start dealing with it.