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I need some serious help with my transmission, leaking fluid ect.

Jorge6.5

Jorge6.5

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Was driving my truck and out of no where the truck feels like its being held back. I figured maybe the brakes are hanging up, the truck would feel like being held back then felt like it unlocked again with no resistants then back to the brake hanging up again.

It was not my brakes i guess, they did not smell, I looked under truck and smoke was coming out, transmission fluid was leaking all over the driver side of tranny and t case.

Im at a total lose here i have no idea what could have caused this, the tranny always shifted great.

Please help!
 
When i went to check the dipstick it looked like fluid had come out of the filler tube and the fluid was almost black and it was always red.
 
I seem to recall someone else had something similar and TC was mentioned as the problem. However, I don't have a photographic memory.
 
Does not sound good. You been doing alot of WOT runs with the new turbo? with 240K on the trans it may have been to much for it??
 
I did wide open throttle for only a moment maybe 2 or 3 times. I have maybe 25 miles with the new turbo, was not even getting on it hard. it was shifting great one minute than a total turn around.

Thanks for the help
 
I was just checking out the tranny and it appears to be a vent hose coming out the top of the tranny. looks like that where the fluid was coming out of here is a pic, its on the driver side of tranny IMG_1048.jpg On the bottom of the pic you can see the front drive shaft that is covered in tranny fluid.
 
My truck will still drive but i wont right now. Maybe i can drop the pan and change the filter and fluid? I just dont see what went wrong here, it was great one minute then the next its total crap.
 
You may have an electrical problem that is applying a "trans brake" shift configuration via a short.
More likely you have lost static friction on one of the clutches or bands. This turns into sliding friction that has less holding power than static and generates a lot of heat.
Possible you locked up a bearing and it is spinning.

In the above slipping component or spinning bearing the heat boils off the transmission fluid. Black fluid is serious as it got really hot and a lot of the fluid was exposed to the heat and debris.

You need to rebuild the transmission, don't waste a fluid and filter on it. Then make sure you know the cause wasn't electrical.

Possible you are applying too much power and not enough shift/holding pressure. I would recommend a shift kit and if it was the TCC that fried a better clutch in that. The new turbo can produce more power than the transmission expects at a specific throttle for example.

Possible it was just old and not enough clutch left to hold.

The "holding back" was a part slipping and generating heat from the power vs. moving you.
 
Strange thought, try pulling the overflow tube from the trans and clean it out. Had a similar issue with my 94 and it fixed it after the tube was clear. Full of dirt, salt and gunk. *Note: don't use the tube from a brake cleaner in the hole if it is clogged! You will get dirty.
 
Well I found a tranny locally for $350 from a 6.5 but it a 4x2 version and from what i understand parts from my tranny can be used to convert the 4x2 tranny to 4x4.

Is this worth is? I have no money for a complete rebuild right now.

I guess its fried with the fluid being pretty much black

As for it being electrical i have no idea, only thing i did to it was add a boost fooler but i was sure to hook it up right and dont see how it could have affected the tranny.

Thanks a lot for your replies. I'll be visiting the transmission shop soon
 
By electrical he isn't implying you did it just that over time connection can short and wires can rub through each other. Maybe this goes to show that stock programming doesnt apply appropriate coupling to hold the power from a large turbo. Maybe you should get a ECM next.
 
Yes the parts can be swaped between 4x4 and 2wd trans. Tail housing and output shaft are only difference. You also need to confirm new trans has proper cooler port location or you'll need new cooler lines. If you found a trans you trust for $250 I would go that way since money is tight. "Trust" is the key word.

Edit: to swap output shaft you will have to completly disassymble both trannys as its first in, last out.
 
Thanks again guys, i think ill be buying the 4x2 version. What shift kit would be a good choice?

Wish i could afford the tuned ecm, most likley this summer
 
tanman_2006 said:
By electrical he isn't implying you did it just that over time connection can short and wires can rub through each other. Maybe this goes to show that stock programming doesn't apply appropriate coupling to hold the power from a large turbo. Maybe you should get a ECM next.
Click to expand...
OBDII's use adaptive control of the clutch pressures. Comparing the front and rear speed sensors to regulate the line tcc and shift pressures to just enough to prevent slip when supposed to be locked and of course to make smooth shifts. If trans cant hold a clutch locked it will set a code. You got code? :hihi:
BTW this makes the 4L80E live longer, run cooler and use less fuel just for its own operation.
You think maybe the stator sprag is blown in this one?
 
No codes at all at least no check engine light. I can hook up my scanner to check for codes.

Considering my fluid is black think its basically fried.

As for the tranny i was going to buy, its a no go. the '96 trucks can only use '96 tranny. So im exploring my options
 
If it is the convertor and you can check the sprag with your fingers after its out, you could replace the converter, filter, fluid and go. Yea its the cheap way to go to get by for now.

But if you have to rebuild it here is a way to save bucks. How about a Monster in a Box kit? It comes with a DIY DVD.

A locked up stator sprag will pull ok at low rpm then be a huge drag when the converter gets up to speed sucking up power and turning it into heat boiling the fluid. A stator sprag that has failed in freewheel will be a slug starting off since the convertor will have no torque multiplication. But once up to highway speed it will seem like every things ok. Locked up sprags are not real common but seems to fit your pattern. Some added stress-sudden onset of drag/loss of power-overheating. And I am pretty sure it wont set a code unless there is one for overheat.
 
Well I don't know evrything about these things, but you should be able to use 95&^ trans. 94- had different force motors, but could still be used by installing new style force motors.
Anyone else confirm this?
 
Burning oil said:
Well I don't know evrything about these things, but you should be able to use 95&^ trans. 94- had different force motors, but could still be used by installing new style force motors.
Anyone else confirm this?
Click to expand...
Could a 96 have some odd combo of force motors? The old trans has the right set in it so there you go, swap them.
 
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