I have a couple of questions

[deuce1981]

Here's the deal: I have an '86 K2500 that came with a 6.2 from the factory. It went boom. It was swapped for a NA 6.5 by Gillett Diesel in '95. They tell me that the NA version they swapped in is the same longblock, with the same compression ratio, as the turbo version and that adding a turbo would be in my best interest. My question is how? It still has the mechanical Stanadyne IP, mechanical lift pump, & model 80 filter. Is this really possible? I know there is a bit of an exhaust clearance issue but I can fab and weld anything so I don't think that'd be a problem. Does anyone know if and where I'd run into problems? Thanks in advancefor helping a noobie out.

 

[Bullseye240]

I think it's been done and IIRC the AC box on that body style will interfere with turbo fitment. As far as the IP it would need to be calibrated to match the extra airflow or you would not be getting enough fuel. If the truck runs fine as is why bother. If you need more power move up to a newer truck with everything already set up, a better ride and less noisy cab.

 

[chrisk1500]

Get the exhaust manifolds off of a 6.5 TD to get the turbo mount and the crossover outlets.

Get either a GM-X turbo or contact SlimShady for an 'improved' turbo - not sure on pricing.

Get an upper intake from a 6.5 TD to make intake plumbing easy.

Get a 4" exhaust system - you may need to butcher one to get it to fit into an 80's truck.

Bolt it on, crank up the IP, and enjoy....

 

[deuce1981]

I think it's been done and IIRC the AC box on that body style will interfere with turbo fitment. As far as the IP it would need to be calibrated to match the extra airflow or you would not be getting enough fuel. If the truck runs fine as is why bother. If you need more power move up to a newer truck with everything already set up, a better ride and less noisy cab.

I would buy a newer truck if that was in the budget and I cared to get into something more complicated. I have sourced all of the parts, except the exhaust, fairly cheap. From what the mechanic at Gillett said, I would gain about 20-30% more HP and torque with the turbo installed. I figure why not? The truck is almost mint and I picked it up for $1200 last year with all service records intact. I couldn't even get a decent power upgrade on a newer, especially Duramax, truck for the the price I paid for my truck.

 

[JiFaire]

Deuce, I agree with ChrisK1500... this is basically a bolt-on mod. You will need to buy or build yourself a Turbomaster to control the turbo, ('cause you don't have a PCM or any of that vacuum crap), but that's easy.

First, you want to grab a tape measure and start measuring under your hood, though.

Measure up a 6.5 first. Build yourself a few drawings to show where the turbo sits as far as depth(front<-->back), height (top <-->bottom) and width (left<-->right) compared to the exhaust manifold, front cylinder port (#2).

Then measure up your truck, using the same reference point (exhaust manifold, front cylinder #2) to make sure your turbo will fit in 3D: height (between your hood and the manifold), depth (in front of your AC/heater housing) and width (between your engine and the fender well).

If it fits, go for it.

Oh, and there are bound to be guys on here that have GMx turbos for sale cheap, as they have just upgraded to an ATT - or you might want to go straight to that upgrade (I would), in which case you won't need a TM, either.

The thing will run just fine without making any IP adjustments, too... the difference is, you will WANT to make them if you have a turbo to help burn that extra fuel

 

[jbsaxman]

Deuce, I'm in the SLC area a lot (spending a lot of time at Primary Children's right now), so I'm more than happy to lend my help if you need it.

 

[deuce1981]

Deuce, I agree with ChrisK1500... this is basically a bolt-on mod. You will need to buy or build yourself a Turbomaster to control the turbo, ('cause you don't have a PCM or any of that vacuum crap), but that's easy.

First, you want to grab a tape measure and start measuring under your hood, though.

Measure up a 6.5 first. Build yourself a few drawings to show where the turbo sits as far as depth(front<-->back), height (top <-->bottom) and width (left<-->right) compared to the exhaust manifold, front cylinder port (#2).

Then measure up your truck, using the same reference point (exhaust manifold, front cylinder #2) to make sure your turbo will fit in 3D: height (between your hood and the manifold), depth (in front of your AC/heater housing) and width (between your engine and the fender well).

If it fits, go for it.

Oh, and there are bound to be guys on here that have GMx turbos for sale cheap, as they have just upgraded to an ATT - or you might want to go straight to that upgrade (I would), in which case you won't need a TM, either.

The thing will run just fine without making any IP adjustments, too... the difference is, you will WANT to make them if you have a turbo to help burn that extra fuel

Do you think a body lift would help my clearance problems with the turbo? I've been looking around the web to see if there is some kind of mod to the A/C box to make it fit but came up with nada. Just a lot of people saying it would interfere. I just don't want to go into this full bore and end up not being able to complete the install.

 

[bk95td]

Lots of posts about this over at the place 6.2 section.

 

[Turbine Doc]

PM GMCTD he put a 6.5 in his 84 dually, does require some work to a/c but no unsurmountable, do you have a special love interest in this body, lots of donor bodies or even whole trucks for reasonable prices these days for newer trucks.

 

[deuce1981]

PM GMCTD he put a 6.5 in his 84 dually, does require some work to a/c but no unsurmountable, do you have a special love interest in this body, lots of donor bodies or even whole trucks for reasonable prices these days for newer trucks.

Yeah, I don't know why but I love the 73-87 body style. And it's in really good condition, no rust and flawless paint. Unheard of in No. Utah. I also figure it would be cheaper to do the turbo swap on my truck with stock parts than to buy a new truck. I'm already heavily invested in a rock crwaler project and my wife would shoot me if I sank too much money into the hauler.

 

[83GMCK2500]

Hey deuce I am a really big aficionado of the 73-87 trucks as well, welcome here I hope all those gurus in the 6.2/6.5 section can answer all your questions.

I am curious though, did you swap the SM-420 into your truck? The stock 4-speed is the SM-465, newer version not quite as low of a granny gear, 6.55 instead of 7.02 IIRC. What trim level is your GMC (Sierra, High Sierra, Sierra Classic)?

 

[deuce1981]

Hey deuce I am a really big aficionado of the 73-87 trucks as well, welcome here I hope all those gurus in the 6.2/6.5 section can answer all your questions.

I am curious though, did you swap the SM-420 into your truck? The stock 4-speed is the SM-465, newer version not quite as low of a granny gear, 6.55 instead of 7.02 IIRC. What trim level is your GMC (Sierra, High Sierra, Sierra Classic)?

After going out and looking at the tag I stand corrected. It is an SM465. I must have forgotten which one it was. Getting senile at the ripe old age of....27. Lol. The one thing that's missing on my truck(multiple things actually) are all the trim level badges. I believe it's a Sierra though, it has power everything and the premium 1986 stereo tape deck(score!).

 

[83GMCK2500]

Sierra Classic was the fully loaded one with Power Windows, Power Door Locks, Cruise Control, Digital AM/FM/Cass., A/C.... My first truck was an '86 GMC C2500 454/TH400 Camper Special with the Sierra Classic package, mine also had dual 20 gal. tanks.

 

[deuce1981]

Yeah you're right. I just took her for a ride and it's right there on the glove box "Sierra Classic". I need to spend more time with my truck. Maybe I'll get the badges for the fenders at some point. I've got the dual tanks too.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Those are the full front axle trucks. I also really like the stance of those model years. Just a tough lookin chevy truck. Sit in the engie compartment to fix it. I dated a girl once who had an 85 with a vette engine dropped into it, big lift and 35's... Needless to say she beat me up.

 

[deuce1981]

So I've been contemplating my options for a little while now and had an epiphany. I was going at things all wrong(I think) in trying to to make my truck fit the turbo. After checking out the forum some more and running across Heath's landspeed 6.5 I thought to myself "Hey, I can fabricate anything out of metal. Why not build a custom header to relocate the turbo." Any thoughts guys? Also, is there any issue with using the mechanical lift pump that I already have, or should I switch to the electric version?

 

[Turbine Doc]

You will need to go electric lift as where the mech lift pump drives from, is where the turbo drain should go, IMO easier than fabbing a header is get a newer model airbox/evaporator and put that in, IIRC that was way GMCTD did his did you PM him yet?