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HP4 or HPT

R

RCpullerdude

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I'm thinking about getting a chip in a month or so. I'm looking more for fuel economy/reliability with a touch of go-fast. I was thinking of the HP4, but the more I think about it, would the HPT have anything programmed into it that the HP4 doesn't that would make it worse for a daily driver than the HP4? I'm not real big on towing, it's only a 1500 with a max trailer weight of maybe 6K. What chip would offer better economy/reliability/engine life?

Thanks.
 
I'm about ready to say screw it and go with the HP4. Think I'll probably wait until about Christmas though, that way I'll have time to get a TDO-7 or Chinese knock-off, and get the chip with a non-wastegated tune. I e-mailed Heath, and got a reply from Bill saying that when I order the chip (by phone) to give them a code (don't remember off the top of my head) for a special version of the tune, and that it'd work with any turbo, as long as it provides enough flow.
 
RCpullerdude said:
Trust me, I'd love that HP4, should make my 200 RWHP goal very easy.
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i'm guessing its a safe bet to say i'm close to 200 rwhp, if i intercooled it with HO injectors and whatever else i could get my hands on for these trucks performance wise then i don't think it'd be an issue. stock it was 195@ 3,400 RPM at the crank. i won't do "ricer math" by adding up the values because its pointless. i know the auto trans chews up a lot of horsepower but i'm not sure how much. remember horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how much of the wall you take with you. i'd love to get the truck dynoed to see what she's really got. anyone know of a dyno in CT? :D
 
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Well, last I knew, more horsepower generally meant more torque actually, shouldn't it be the other way around. Isn't the equation hp=tq*rpm/5252, or something like that? Torque is what I want, but hp is easier to find. OBD-I "S" rated at 180 stock. According to Heath's site, it should be right in the 200 RWHP range with an HP4 and exhaust, but I'm skeptical of any mfg's hp claims without a dyno print out. Since we loose about 50 hp give or take, through the 4L80-E, I'll need about 250 at the flywheel. Definatly do-able.
 
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RCpullerdude said:
Well, last I knew, more horsepower generally meant more torque actually, shouldn't it be the other way around. Isn't the equation hp=tq*rpm/5252, or something like that? Torque is what I want, but hp is easier to find. OBD-I "S" rated at 180 stock. According to Heath's site, it should be right in the 200 RWHP range with an HP4 and exhaust, but I'm skeptical of any mfg's hp claims without a dyno print out. Since we loose about 50 hp give or take, through the 4L80-E, I'll need about 250 at the flywheel. Definatly do-able.
Click to expand...

More HP does NOT equal more torque.

If you're in question about which to buy, why not call Bill and tell him what you're doing with the truck and let him suggest the right one for you?
 
RCpullerdude said:
Well, last I knew, more horsepower generally meant more torque actually, shouldn't it be the other way around. Isn't the equation hp=tq*rpm/5252, or something like that?
Click to expand...

SnowDrift said:
More HP does NOT equal more torque.

If you're in question about which to buy, why not call Bill and tell him what you're doing with the truck and let him suggest the right one for you?
Click to expand...

I never said for sure that it did. IIRC, HP=TQ*RPM/5252. Thus, if you have 129 ft-lbs of torque at 3,000 RPMS, then you have 73.686214 HP at 3,000 RPM's. If you add 90 ft-lbs of torque, you now have 125.0952 HP. This shows that HP increases with torque, not the other way around. However, in order to get more HP, you have to eiter increase TQ or RPM.

Now, go back and re-read my post especially the part where I said "Well, last I knew, more horsepower generally meant more torque actually, shouldn't it be the other way around. Isn't the equation hp=tq*rpm/5252, or something like that?"
 
RCPD check the sensitivity at the door, I don't think Snow was jumping in your nickers, he mite have missed part of your post, happens often enough, no need to go bold which is same as caps=hollering
 
Sorry, bolding not for yelling, not upset or anything. Just trying to settle some confusion. Bold was to make it stand out, more noticable.
 
I now have the HP4. Previously I had the v2 towing chip (rated at 65 HP) wich now become the HPT (with updates I think).
Both pushes strong, but they are different. It's clear that the towing one is working with torque as key point, the HP4 is more a compromised with torque and HP.
With the v2, shift points are lower, in rpms, than the HP4.
I felt more the "kick in the ass" sensation with the v2 than with the HP4, though the HP4 offers a really butter smooth shifting.
With the v2, I reached the 190 kilometers/hour as top speed (yes, my speedo is working fine), I haven't tried yet with the HP4 but I bet it should be pretty similar.

To make it short, your right foot will be happy with both. If you are willing to tow, go with the HPT, you'll get torque, power too, even if it says 53HP gain as the HP4 claims up to 87HP.
But you said you're not big on towing, so, the HP4 will make you a happy daily driver.

This is from my own experience, but I think too that Bill is the one to call for peace of mind.
 
Matuva, based on your expiriences, would the HPT have any distinct advantage over the HP4 for towing less than 6K pounds and a DD? I'm thinking, based on what you and other have said that I'll go with the non-wastegated HP4 tune and a TDO7-22A turbo at the same time, and have a pretty good set-up for what I need. Gonna have to get in contact with Heath before long. :D
 
HP4.

I tow lightly 4-5K with the HP4 on my 96 K3500 and there is no heat problem at all. Just keep an eye on boost if you run mechanical boost as the load makes the boost higher.

Right now unloaded I will barely hit 12 PSI but loaded it will hit 14 PSI. That is enough for me :)
 
I would ask Heath directly if that is who you are going to get the ECM/PCM from. I told them what I was driving and that I would be towing just under 9k. They asked me a few questions about what I wanted, and suggested the HP4. I got it and I'm happy with it. I still have other upgrades needed before I can push the truck, but so far so good.
 
matuva said:
1
With the v2, shift points are lower, in rpms, than the HP4.
I felt more the "kick in the ass" sensation with the v2 than with the HP4, though the HP4 offers a really butter smooth shifting.
With the v2, I reached the 190 kilometers/hour as top speed (yes, my speedo is working fine), I haven't tried yet with the HP4 but I bet it should be pretty similar.
1.
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I would think lower shift points would yeild greater MPG?
 
Matt Bachand said:
I would think lower shift points would yeild greater MPG?
Click to expand...

I will confirm that point later on, as I have the HP4 for less than 2 tanks by now.
At first sight, it seems the HP4 gives a better mileage, but was it my right foot wich was too heavy with the V2.0, or me driving almost "calm" with the HP4 as I don't know it still?
I need few tanks to compare..
 
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I would have to think that the HPT tune would not raise EGT's as much as the HP4 would, from a EGT stand point. Just guessin here, but if you had some way to cool the IAT's, then (from temp standpoint) it would be a mute point. Again, no experience on this one, just thinkin out loud.

I would think that if you had stock injectors over H/O injectors, it wouldn't get as hot either...
 
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