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How is a 6.0 ?

A

Acesneights1

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As per the mods we should start this over and more on point. As someone myself who had expressed interest in a 6.0 recently could some 6.0 OWNERS post the known good and bad and things to know about potentially buying one ?
I have "heard"
Turbos
Headgaskets
Also does the cab need to be removed to do any engine work as like in the newer 6.4s ?
Would like factual info.
Thanks.
 
When considering purchasing a 6.0....

FIRST- Get an OASIS REPORT from Ford (equivalent to GM's VIN report). Do not buy a 6.0 without one. Look for recurring issues and major repairs on the report.

If you don't run a programmer / tunes, and the OASIS doesn't show a history of head gasket issues, then it likely won't have any problems running stock TTY head bolts. I haven't had studs on either of my trucks and neither has had head gasket issues.

Fluids and filters are important to the 6.0, especially the oil. Fresh oil every 5,000 is a must, since the high pressure oil system (used to fire the injectors) shears oil rather quickly. USE NOTHING OTHER THAN MOTORCRAFT/INTERNATIONAL/RACOR FUEL FILTERS AND OIL FILTERS.

The injectors are not nearly as troublesome as the rumors suggest. If you keep the fuel pressure up (as noted below), change fuel filters every 10k, and change the oil every 5k, you will probably not have any more injector issues with a 6.0 than you would have with any other late model diesel.

A coolant filter should be installed immediately to prevent plugging of the oil cooler and the eventual rupture of the EGR cooler.

Fuel pressures need to stay above 45psi (measured in the underhood fuel bowl) to keep the injectors healthy. A healthy stock fuel pump will maintain fuel pressures between 49-53psi under all circumstances.

The Torqueshift trannys on these trucks are as stout as the blessed 4L80E, maybe even more. The trannys they used to have behind the 7.3s are the ones to watch out for.

The variable vein turbos can get sticky if they're not exercised on a regular basis. Not a problem for me, since exercising the turbo is part of the fun of owning a turbo diesel.

The most important parameters on the 6.0 are EGTs, fuel pressure, EOT, and ECT. Keep the fuel pressures over 45 psi at all times. Keep the cruising EGTs under 1250 (short spikes to 1500 won't hurt, but don't make a habit of it) and let them fall below 350 before you shut down. Make sure the oil temps are within 15 degrees of the coolant temps at cruising speeds. If they're not, you need to replace your oil cooler or risk blowing the EGR cooler.

And as far as comparisons to the 7.3 go, the 6.0 will run circles around the 7.3, but the 6.0 will not take abuse nearly as well. When properly taken care of and maintained, the 6.0 will work harder and last just as long as a 7.3.
 
OK All good info.
Does the cab need to come of to service the engine ?
Also any known issues with the 2 piece block
Any known injector issues ?
Thanks
 
Some of the more in-depth engine services require cab removal. However, some repairs for which the removal of the cab is suggested by the Ford Workshop Manuals can actually be done without doing so, it just takes a lot more cussing, swearing, bending and twisting.

Slight oil seepage from the bedplate (the seam between the upper and lower block) is not uncommon. However, I believe the majority of bedplate leaks do not leak enough cause a drip or a noticeable drop in oil level as indicated on the dipstick.

Injector issues are addressed in my first post.
 
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The July 2009 Diesel Power Magazine has a bunch of outstanding information on the Ford 6.0. It would be worth spending the money on the magazine.

It goes threw the 6.0 by year on all the problems the motor had and how the best way is to fix them.

It was some great reading! :thumbsup:
 
As previously pointed out maintaince is the KEY to these engines, the Ford workshop manual has no mention of cab off repairs on these but I think the one you're referring to is the 6.4PSD which most of the repairs call for cab removal. But again most can be performed with the cab in place, it just takes longer and is a bit more difficult. As far as the OASIS report most dealers should provide you with one if you ask nicely and most of the diesel techs are pretty good guys but your best bet if you're looking for a reputable tech is ask other guys that own one and see where they have the repairs done and if they've had problems with the dealership. If you need any other info, feel free to PM me, as I'm a certifed ford deisel tech.
 
Should you require new head gaskets pulling the cab is the quickest and easiest way to get to the motor. Most other repairs can be done "cab on" while removing all the accessories off the top of the motor.
 
HeavyAssault said:
Should you require new head gaskets pulling the cab is the quickest and easiest way to get to the motor. Most other repairs can be done "cab on" while removing all the accessories off the top of the motor.
Click to expand...

That's crazy. Do you lift the cab up a little or take it off compltely ? Is the cab made to come off easy like big huge plugs for the harnesses and quick connects ? Ie:
Cat HE has quick connects on the a/c lines that allow you to disconnect without loosing refrigernt. The wiring harness has a big plug that unhooks easily.
 
Acesneights1 said:
That's crazy. Do you lift the cab up a little or take it off compltely ? Is the cab made to come off easy like big huge plugs for the harnesses and quick connects ? Ie:
Cat HE has quick connects on the a/c lines that allow you to disconnect without loosing refrigernt. The wiring harness has a big plug that unhooks easily.
Click to expand...

Take it off completely, and yes FORD put most everything on quick connects because most any major repair requires pulling the cab off.
 
OK That said what the heck do you do if you own an Excursion with a 6.0. I am in the market for an Excursion but because of this am probably going to go with a 7.3. wouldn't it be easier to just pull the motor out the front ?
 
The worst repair you MIGHT need would replacing the head gaskets. The work can be done with the cab/body on but may require more dis-assembly of other engine bay items like the heater core. It has been done several times over with the cab on by people in their own driveway.
 
So what's the honest deal with the headgaskets ? Are they ok if you run stock tune ? Are guys blowing them with tuners ? or can they go stock ? How hard would it be just to pull the nose off and yank the motor vs trying to lift the cab of an Excursion ? The sad part is I can buy a lower mileage newer 6.0 Excursion cheaper than an older higher mileage 7.3 Exc.
 
Honestly I don't think it's as big an issue as many will tell you. Yes the HGs will hold just fine running stock. Some claim they blow them running stock but see my first response. It's a cramped are to work in, you can pull the front apart if you wanted to and do the work.

If you run the motor too hot then the coolant boils. That pressure has to go somewhere and it blows out at the degas bottle. The cap will only hold so much pressure then it vents. Most will tell you coolant residue at the degas bottle is a blown HG issue. I'm not convinced.....
 
Acesneights1 said:
OK That said what the heck do you do if you own an Excursion with a 6.0. I am in the market for an Excursion but because of this am probably going to go with a 7.3. wouldn't it be easier to just pull the motor out the front ?
Click to expand...

Pretty sure an engine job requires pulling teh cab in order to get the engine out of the frame. The engine is physically too wide to come out of the frame with the body on is what Iwas told.
 
Acesneights1 said:
So what's the honest deal with the headgaskets ? Are they ok if you run stock tune ? Are guys blowing them with tuners ? or can they go stock ? How hard would it be just to pull the nose off and yank the motor vs trying to lift the cab of an Excursion ? The sad part is I can buy a lower mileage newer 6.0 Excursion cheaper than an older higher mileage 7.3 Exc.
Click to expand...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LH2NmxXEUJQ

If you have time, watch this and the other 5 associated with it. Lengthy, but this will answer any question you can possibly have regarding the 6.0. He explains how the part works, what can go wrong, and how to avoid having problems.

Sit back, grab a beer, and enjoy:thumbsup:
 
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