How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

[nycxjeremyy]

I wish I knew if there was a website or manual or anything that states that the 6.2 NEEDS a 6 bolt flywheel, since when i brought it up with the company that built my transmission, they stated thay only the 4L80E had it, not the 700r4/4L60E.

Also, the shop that built my transmission:

8621 4L60E LVL3 Jeremy Cadena 1577.MOV

drive.google.com

Gearstar Performance Transmissions

gearstar.com

 

[MrMarty51]

Use some blue lock tite on them bolts.
Clean the threads of the female sides very well . Brake and parts cleaner, give each a shot, air compress blow them out, if a compressor is available. If not then try to get into them with a rag and swab them out.
I usually give them three shots to make sure they are clean and clear of any oily substances.
I would suggest red lock tite but thats difficult to remove bolts once that stuff sets up.
Its recommended to use heat to allow the red to loosen up but I have wrenched bolts free without heat after the red had been applied.
Guess it would be Your choice.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Use some blue lock tite on them bolts.
Clean the threads of the female sides very well . Brake and parts cleaner, give each a shot, air compress blow them out, if a compressor is available. If not then try to get into them with a rag and swab them out.
I usually give them three shots to make sure they are clean and clear of any oily substances.
I would suggest red lock tite but thats difficult to remove bolts once that stuff sets up.
Its recommended to use heat to allow the red to loosen up but I have wrenched bolts free without heat after the red had been applied.
Guess it would be Your choice.

We used blue lock tight sir

Test drive after the bolts were tightened:

2 new videos · Tuesday, Sep 23 ð¬

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Its S M O O T H

 

[Will L.]

Excellent job doing it now instead of waiting. That saved a LOT of annoying labor.

 

[MrMarty51]

Excellent job doing it now instead of waiting. That saved a LOT of annoying labor.

Dont even wanna go that deep into it.
Requires way more tools than I wanna drag out, and the already hurting muscles and joints screaming in pain.
No thank You.

 

[dbrannon79]

Yeah that was a good find and save there! I had to replace mine on the 95, for one person laying on the concrete driveway it was a bugger to say the least! I got lucky though and only had to unbolt the trans and slide it back enough to get by wrenches in there!

future note. keep a good eye on your harmonic balancer on the front of the engine. if and when it lets loose it can snap the crankshaft!

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Yeah that was a good find and save there! I had to replace mine on the 95, for one person laying on the concrete driveway it was a bugger to say the least! I got lucky though and only had to unbolt the trans and slide it back enough to get by wrenches in there!

future note. keep a good eye on your harmonic balancer on the front of the engine. if and when it lets loose it can snap the crankshaft!

Good thing i replaced that with a Fluidampr long ago

 

[MrMarty51]

Good thing i replaced that with a Fluidampr long ago

You did good.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Ruh roh something leaking

New video · Thursday, Sep 25 ð¬

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[dbrannon79]

oil or fuel?

 

[nycxjeremyy]

It was the damn clamp on the lower coolant hose, as annoying as it was, all I had to do was reposition and re tighten the hose.

 

[MrMarty51]

It was the damn clamp on the lower coolant hose, as annoying as it was, all I had to do was reposition and re tighten the hose.

All the time something.
I finally got all the bugs worked out of My truck.
It is mighty nice to be able to climb in that unit and take off to where ever I needs to or wants to go.

 

[dbrannon79]

Be sure to inspect that hose and clamp durring the day. it could be your truck is warning you.... "replace me" (the hose and or clamp)

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Be sure to inspect that hose and clamp durring the day. it could be your truck is warning you.... "replace me" (the hose and or clamp)

Hoses are new, so is the clamp, I replaced both hoses at the same time i did the water pump.

 

[ak diesel driver]

There's a reason OEM uses those spring clamps.....

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Question yall.

This is something ive lowkey been putting off for the longest now, what pair of front shocks so you recommend? Burban bro gave me.rear shocks that didnt fit for him, im looking for a front set that would ideally be similar to what he has given me

 

[MrMarty51]

Helper spring shock absorbers.

 

[dbrannon79]

Yup, that one in the pic has a spring to help with "weak" springs and to help increase carry capacity. they will make the ride rough or stiffer when there is not a load in the back. I installed air shocks on my 95 for this reason since my springs are weak. what makes the air shocks good is I can let the air out when I'm not carrying anything for a soft ride and fill them when I am hauling something.

for the fronts, if there is nothing wrong with the spring, not sagging , I recommend just staying with the factory front shocks. I prefer a smoother ride over a rough one especially on the roads around here with all the dips and pot holes. it's all up to you on how you want the suspension to feel both loaded and empty.

 

[WarWagon]

I would also check timing, there is a simple procedure to "check" and see if it might need adjustment. @Will and @ak diesel driver can explain it to make better sense than I can, but it's basically amounts to this....

get the engine fully warm first. then look with a flashlight on the passenger side of the IP for a lever that goes from the throttle shaft down to a plunger at the bottom of the IP. this is your timing advance, it will move as you press the throttle. Once you find it, get a long screw driver or prybar and carefully fit in down to where the plunger is at. what you want to do is with the engine fully warm and at an idle, press on the bottom of that lever pushing the plunger in. watch how the engine runs. does it stall? or does it just start shaking and bellowing smoke out? Or does it do nothing?

ideally you want to see it just start to shake and blow some but not a lot of smoke out. this is a way to "check" how close your timing is. this method involves no changes to the timing and won't hurt anything, it's when you decide that the timing needs adjustment is when you really have to watch what your doing.

if all checks out, that is one thing you can check off the list for the morning smoke and shaking.

This checks that the advance piston in the IP isn't stuck.

@WarWagon I think said he verified his timing that way. Not I. I put an induction pickup timing tool and timing light on it.
That test isn’t to check timing, it’s something else.

No as noted above. I do it by ear at 45 MPH steady for a bit then roll into the throttle. The IDI clatter should quiet down as the precups get heat in them from the increased throttle setting. One eye on the mirror reading any white/black smoke.

I have also "rented" a shop with old time experienced labor to have the timing set.

 

[jrsavoie]

This checks that the advance piston in the IP isn't stuck.



No as noted above. I do it by ear at 45 MPH steady for a bit then roll into the throttle. The IDI clatter should quiet down as the precups get heat in them from the increased throttle setting. One eye on the mirror reading any white/black smoke.

I have also "rented" a shop with old time experienced labor to have the timing set.

The old time experienced wrenches are getting harder to find. All of the time.

The Toro guy I loved, that used to be in charge of service has to be retired or about ready to
There's no amount of teaching that could get his experience shared with the young techs.

If he was on vacation or something I'd just as well take a guess. I think the youngsters waited for him to get back.
He knows more off the top of his head, than they can find out in a month.

Same with the Mitsubishi guy in Indiana. And the old John Deere tech in Illinois