How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

[nycxjeremyy]

I'd get it close and run it until it pukes. Might go another 200,000 miles .

I'd slap a bypass filter on & run synthetic oil it to slow future wear.

I can imagine the L E A K S from synthetic Rotella T6 as opposed to T4

 

[jrsavoie]

I can imagine the L E A K S from synthetic Rotella T6 as opposed to T4

I always preferred longevity over worrying about leaks. Around here, that's rust prevention

I run Amsoil in everything. Except when They had the clearance sale on the Mobile1

 

[nycxjeremyy]

I always preferred longevity over worrying about leaks. Around here, that's rust prevention

I run Amsoil in everything. Except when They had the clearance sale on the Mobile1

Rotella vs Amsoil vs JohnDeere vs anyone else. Go

 

[jrsavoie]

Search best synthetic engine oils.

The Tribodyne that Chris sells is good stuff.

John Deere is usually good stuff - I don't know what they sell

Royal Purple is good, but I never liked the color.

I used Amsoil, with very good results. Where I am, I could order and sometimes have it in the afternoon.

Read the articles, watch the videos.

Did Project Farm do a best diesel motor oil test?

Google Search

 

[Will L.]

When the engine is warmed up and you start it- any smoke then?
Like- if you stopped somewhere for 1/2 hour lunch, when you start it to leave.

Also next time in the morning you start it, do this: cycle the glows 4-5 times.
Key on for glow plugs, dont start it but key off. Then immediately key on to cycle glow plugs again not starting, do this 4 or 5 times, then on the last one crank it to start. Then compare how much smoke there is.

Getting 300k miles from it now is like a 65 year old asking “how do I live to 100 years old?” Make improvements you can and enjoy when it is things like the fluiddampr you can go from this engine to the next one. You’re young enough that wearing out this engine and later putting in a new one that gets all the details built right will pay off because you can get 300k from it no worries.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

When the engine is warmed up and you start it- any smoke then?
Like- if you stopped somewhere for 1/2 hour lunch, when you start it to leave.

Also next time in the morning you start it, do this: cycle the glows 4-5 times.
Key on for glow plugs, dont start it but key off. Then immediately key on to cycle glow plugs again not starting, do this 4 or 5 times, then on the last one crank it to start. Then compare how much smoke there is.

Getting 300k miles from it now is like a 65 year old asking “how do I live to 100 years old?” Make improvements you can and enjoy when it is things like the fluiddampr you can go from this engine to the next one. You’re young enough that wearing out this engine and later putting in a new one that gets all the details built right will pay off because you can get 300k from it no worries.

Nope, its only when its cold

Granted, its been very warm here this past week (+85°F), if it does smoke, its very little and dissipates fairly quickly, I guarantee when winter comes (it gets down to -20°F) it'll start to smoke like a damn chimney.

Also. Reminder that when I bought this 1990 K5, this 6.2 was swapped in from an 85 K5, it had 78k miles when purchased so it is a relatively young motor, a young motor that has been taken care off (babied) as of yet.

(Yeah I should probably cycle the glows plugs more than just once and then cranking it straight away......)

 

[Will L.]

The multiple cycles 4-5 will tell you 100% if it’s just a. Cold issue. I would suggest plugging in the block heater but can see your parking situation probably isn’t friendly to that.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

The multiple cycles 4-5 will tell you 100% if it’s just a. Cold issue. I would suggest plugging in the block heater but can see your parking situation probably isn’t friendly to that.

Its like 45-60°F in the mornings here, can't possibly be THAT cold?

Id love to plug it in. Unfortunately, I got in trouble for doing so last winter when it was -15°F "ran a cable from my window"

 

[Will L.]

45f is not real cold. But if it hit 45 for 2.5 hours, the engine will be 45-50 when you are starting it until 3 hours after sunrise-cold enough to put a little strain on starting.

 

[dbrannon79]

I would also check timing, there is a simple procedure to "check" and see if it might need adjustment. @Will and @ak diesel driver can explain it to make better sense than I can, but it's basically amounts to this....

get the engine fully warm first. then look with a flashlight on the passenger side of the IP for a lever that goes from the throttle shaft down to a plunger at the bottom of the IP. this is your timing advance, it will move as you press the throttle. Once you find it, get a long screw driver or prybar and carefully fit in down to where the plunger is at. what you want to do is with the engine fully warm and at an idle, press on the bottom of that lever pushing the plunger in. watch how the engine runs. does it stall? or does it just start shaking and bellowing smoke out? Or does it do nothing?

ideally you want to see it just start to shake and blow some but not a lot of smoke out. this is a way to "check" how close your timing is. this method involves no changes to the timing and won't hurt anything, it's when you decide that the timing needs adjustment is when you really have to watch what your doing.

if all checks out, that is one thing you can check off the list for the morning smoke and shaking.

 

[Will L.]

@WarWagon I think said he verified his timing that way. Not I. I put an induction pickup timing tool and timing light on it.
That test isn’t to check timing, it’s something else.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Well boys, got a trip to Colorado coming up this weekend, will let you know how it goes, if theres anything I should look at/do prior to going this Friday, let me know

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Checked the Blazer out, all seemed well....we found this though

New video · Thursday, Sep 18 ð¬

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

Yeah....starter is on there firmly though, one of the bolts broke off last year, we put in bolts from another 6.2 in it and its still holding strong, had no idea the starter bracket was like that though

Also, turns out one of my fuel lines on the frame was a literal vacuum line that was crinked tf out (straight 90° angle) I IMMEDIATELY replaced it with the spare hose that I carry, insane ive been driving it like that for 2 years

 

[Will L.]

Checked the Blazer out, all seemed well....we found this though

New video · Thursday, Sep 18 ð¬

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

Yeah....starter is on there firmly though, one of the bolts broke off last year, we put in bolts from another 6.2 in it and its still holding strong, had no idea the starter bracket was like that though

Also, turns out one of my fuel lines on the frame was a literal vacuum line that was crinked tf out (straight 90° angle) I IMMEDIATELY replaced it with the spare hose that I carry, insane ive been driving it like that for 2 years

NO NO NO !!!! It is there but is not attached to the starter!!! Fix this now!!!! Look atvtje circled part - that stud should go through the hole in the brace and have a lock washer and nut or nylock nut.

 

[dbrannon79]

Excuse my language but HOLY SHIT!!!!

get that bracket installed ASAP!!! or else risk a cracked and busted block. my 95 is "still" living proof you need that bracket. the mounting ear on my block that holds the starter broke out and was welded back, threads were toast and was heli-coiled. it's a ticking time bomb on borrowed time. you cannot weld cast iron reliably. I can look through my phone and find the pics of the damage if you need, but please take my word. DO NOT CRANK AGAIN UNTIL FIXED!!!!

 

[MrMarty51]

Be advised to not crank that starter one more time before attaching that starter brace.
You have tested fate way too many times and the next crank could be the one that broke the starters bolts.
Instead of the camels back.

 

[MrMarty51]

Excuse my language but HOLY SHIT!!!!

get that bracket installed ASAP!!! or else risk a cracked and busted block. my 95 is "still" living proof you need that bracket. the mounting ear on my block that holds the starter broke out and was welded back, threads were toast and was heli-coiled. it's a ticking time bomb on borrowed time. you cannot weld cast iron reliably. I can look through my phone and find the pics of the damage if you need, but please take my word. DO NOT CRANK AGAIN UNTIL FIXED!!!!

;;;;;;; ( ) ;;;;;

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Thats what I was saying, ive reached down there, it'll be difficult to get a rachet in there, was very tight when I tried

454 country bro: dude you'll be fine, you worry about this thing too much, many 6.2s dont have those starter bbrackets and theyre fine, they dont have any reinforced oil cooler lines and theyre fine, you baby the heck out of it.

Look at my Big Block, I beat the piss out of it and its still fine. Its a Square, theyre meant for it

 

[Will L.]

That theory is fine so long as he pays for your new engine.

He doesn’t have 21.5:1 compression in his 454

 

[dbrannon79]

Dude, it's not if but when it will snap your block. that "bro" doesn't know much about these diesels and it shows! the best way to get at that bracket is to lift the front end so you have some wiggle room, pull the front tire off so you can get in there. that bracket has got to be installed