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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

Ok good. And yeah, we all get being gunshy of the waterpump mess.

So sad GM did the sbc & bbc waterpump design so good- then abandoned it instead of copying that concept for the 6.2/6.5. That always made me so upset.
 
LMAOO, honestly

So remember how i told you my friend with the 454BB Suburban (prior mechanic) helps me out alot? Well he assisted me with the pump, and when he started he was like "yeah ive done this before, not sure why your pump came with a timing cover gasket"

Well....

He found out quick why, and he wasnt happy at all, he kept swearing at GM under his breath explaining "why tf did they change it from the BB design, this is so stupid" since when he did his water pump, it was a simple swap.

So yeah
 
Anyone know where the PyroMeter or Guage Cluster/Dash Instrument Panel ground/s would be at?

PyroMeter guage doesnt work half the time, and both my speedometer and odometer stopped working, though they'll work at random


(1990 K5 Blazer)
 
nycxjeremyy said:
Anyone know where the PyroMeter or Guage Cluster/Dash Instrument Panel ground/s would be at?

PyroMeter guage doesnt work half the time, and both my speedometer and odometer stopped working, though they'll work at random


(1990 K5 Blazer)
Click to expand...
IIRC, there is a grounding bus bar to the left side way up under the dash.
At least I sort of remember the 78 K20 that I had there was one under there.
I might be wrong on that too.
That could have been on the 93 K1500.
 
since the pyrometer is an addon, depending on how it was installed, the ground might have been spliced into a wire and created a break at the splice. lots of folks use T taps which can cause loads of issues. could be a ground or power issue. also verify your getting power out of all the ignition switch output wires. I know it's a PIA to get at the switch as they mounted it on the top of the column down below with a rod linkage from the key. only way to access is to lower the column!
 
dbrannon79 said:
since the pyrometer is an addon, depending on how it was installed, the ground might have been spliced into a wire and created a break at the splice. lots of folks use T taps which can cause loads of issues. could be a ground or power issue. also verify your getting power out of all the ignition switch output wires. I know it's a PIA to get at the switch as they mounted it on the top of the column down below with a rod linkage from the key. only way to access is to lower the column!
Click to expand...
Thank you sir
 
If that's the #8 gp, it should be fairly easy to get at with the inner fender removed. just be careful removing the GP from the head if it's been in there any length of time. unthread and pull straight out, don't bend or twist if it gets into a bind. last thing you want is a broken gp tip in the cylinder.

go back with the delco 60g's bosch are known for the connector tabs breaking off from what I've read online, and delco 60g's are the only ones that won't destroy your engine upon failure.
 
It’s not regular wire. It is fuseable link.
If you can shorten it up & crimp on a new end, do that. Otherwise you’ll be spending more money than was in the game plan.

Cable ties to hold them out of the way incase they do pop off, and the heat sheilds are the way to go.
 
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