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My trip from Laughlin Nevada up the grade Vegas fared reasonably well I got 210° pulled over let it cool down off again got on the flight to Vegas everything OK. Got into Washington started up White Pass again got to 210° plus or minus pulled over three times got to the top on the flat no problem. I have the Duramax fan and clutch have a new aluminum and plastic radiator remove the AC condenser replace thermostat with a 180° perhaps there’s something I’m overlooking? Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.
Respectfully
Harry
 
If you're still running the factory water pump, that could be an issue. The upgraded balanced flow water pump moves way more gallons per hour, something like 70 stock vs 130 on the high output? Think the '99/2000 model years and after. Only way to know what you have (unless you know what you have is stock) Is to pull the water pump and measure the impeller diameter, high output impeller diameter is 4.25" if my memory serves correctly.

Look up flowkool water pump, good upgrade/ place to start

Also what fan clutch are you running? A stock one won't cut it unless you do the spring mod, some out there sell clutches calibrated for lower temp engagement, while others on here have gone to an electronically controlled fan clutch, there's a write up on this site. Think the Hayden 2840 clutch is a good upgrade that can get the spring mod done, while the Hayden 2886 allegedly locks up sooner/ harder (never ran it myself so can't say from personal experience).

When did you last clean your oil cooler? With regards to cooling these engines every little bit helps. How new is the radiator? They are notorious for plugging up in the fins good regular maintenance is pulling the rad every few years and flushing out the fins from the back side using a garden hose.

Also a cold air intake is essential- don't know what you have but a simple filter under the hood plumbed directly into the turbo is asking for trouble. Find the K47 air box from a 97+ truck, pulls cold air from behind the passenger side headlight through the fender and through the filter into the turbo. A charge air cooler mounted between the frame rails is a good upgrade, and a better turbo will help with intake and exhaust temps. Almost any turbo is an upgrade over the factory one. I've been running the Peninsular/ Unique Diesel towing turbo for the past few years and have been very pleased with it.

 
If you're trying to keep expenses down the high output water pump started in mid year 96 and is a bolt on like you have now. The 99+ is a spin on and the OEM one is balanced flow but I believe the output is the same as the bolt on.
If you're going all out or have issues with the fan clutch not engaging soon enough due to cool outside air then the electroviscous clutch is the way to go IMO.
 
If you're still running the factory water pump, that could be an issue. The upgraded balanced flow water pump moves way more gallons per hour, something like 70 stock vs 130 on the high output? Think the '99/2000 model years and after. Only way to know what you have (unless you know what you have is stock) Is to pull the water pump and measure the impeller diameter, high output impeller diameter is 4.25" if my memory serves correctly.

Look up flowkool water pump, good upgrade/ place to start

Also what fan clutch are you running? A stock one won't cut it unless you do the spring mod, some out there sell clutches calibrated for lower temp engagement, while others on here have gone to an electronically controlled fan clutch, there's a write up on this site. Think the Hayden 2840 clutch is a good upgrade that can get the spring mod done, while the Hayden 2886 allegedly locks up sooner/ harder (never ran it myself so can't say from personal experience).

When did you last clean your oil cooler? With regards to cooling these engines every little bit helps. How new is the radiator? They are notorious for plugging up in the fins good regular maintenance is pulling the rad every few years and flushing out the fins from the back side using a garden hose.

Also a cold air intake is essential- don't know what you have but a simple filter under the hood plumbed directly into the turbo is asking for trouble. Find the K47 air box from a 97+ truck, pulls cold air from behind the passenger side headlight through the fender and through the filter into the turbo. A charge air cooler mounted between the frame rails is a good upgrade, and a better turbo will help with intake and exhaust temps. Almost any turbo is an upgrade over the factory one. I've been running the Peninsular/ Unique Diesel towing turbo for the past few years and have been very pleased with it.

I have replaced everything with the exception of the airbox and the radiator it is a new within the last five years. Also remove the AC condenser from the front of the vehicle. Duramax fan and clutch came as a kit. From SS diesel. 130 upgrade on the water pump and 180° thermostat. Appreciate your help.
Respectfully
Harry
 
So is it one big nut that mounts the fanclutch to the waterpump, of 4 studs?
What thermostat crossover? What thermostat(s)? Depending what you have and what you can spend is key to know.

pictures are a good thing also...

These and other details of modifications (or stock stuff that often gets modified) listed in the signature line helps a lot. Take the time to type all the details once and it always shows up automatically.
 
210 is ok, but, not over 210. So running at 210 I did all day long. If it starts to move over 210 I backed off. I used the Kennedy Diesel low temp fan clutch and a ATT towing turbo. The turbo is night and day cooler running and improved MPG. Couple for sale on here as well as other turbo's out there now.

Is this a one time trip or do you need to make this a tow rig?

No AC going through Nevada? :yuck: It's one of the first things I fixed and then fixed, and fixed, and fixed...
 
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