Ok so this a motor that was already in a HMMWV and pulled? The exhuast manifolds are clean like new on the inside. I know there’s no way to tell until I pull it apart. Would it be wise to “NOT” run the IP on it or leave it alone? The only reason I am asking is it is sitting on a engine stand not in the truck so now would be the time to change anything that should be. I’m planning on installing a gear drive time set and already have brand new Bosch 6.5 turbo injectors. Before I get carried away I have to ask. This is or would be a better motor for the CUCV?? Than the 6.2 with 60,000 miles on it??
Hard to tell if you got a good deal or a boat anchor without a tear down. You have a used engine until proven otherwise. It may be a rebuilt used engine that wasn't installed. Rebuilt and ran is possible. Some of the surplus engines I got you could eat out of the valve covers. However the surplus auction the engine came from doesn't say if the engine was removed after a firefight and everything including the engine was not only expendable but expended. Full of dessert sand, overheated, ran out of oil...
Not sure on the OBS blazer if the HMMWV oil pan will fit. Oil pan and oil pump will need to be swapped. Good inspection from the bottom end.
The IP that has sat so long is a gamble for seals leaking and the governor sticking wide open. That's a s#it your pants moment that will just hammer the valves if you are lucky if not : a high RPM "BOOM!" Safe option is to send it out for a rebuild. If it does run away the safest place to be is behind or in front of the engine. If you can't shut it down with an intake air cutoff your exit had better be preplanned and clear and not go beside the engine. Some have no idea what a diesel runaway is so hopefully I am just talking to myself here.
If it was me I would mount the engine back in the military crate and test run it:
I assume you have spun the engine over slowly by hand.
1 Hook up a bypass hose on the oil cooler ports. Add a mechanical oil pressure gauge
2 Prime the oil system. You will need an oil pump drive installed.
3 You have to change the 24v top cover of the IP anyway (Again send it out for a rebuild is the safe option.)
A) remove IP
B) pour out the old mystery liquid
C) fill it back up with Powerservice grey bottle
D) Spin it both directions by hand so the vane pump and other things get a taste of it.
E) install a 12v top cover making sure to install it so the shutoff isn't pinning the fuel valve WOT.
i) Hit the shut off with 12v and be dammed sure it clicks. No click you did it wrong.
F) Re-install IP
* I forget offhand what way you slide the cover during install, but, you have the shut off that moves the linkage from WOT to "off" during install of the top cover. Again 12v test jumpers and "Click" passes the test. Be sure both solenoids (cold advance) clicks in case you mix em up. *
4 Hook up fuel lines to a 5 gal diesel jug. Most use a electric lift pump...
5 Hook up electrical to starter (We Crank first and then electric to IP.)
6 Have a board or other method to drop on the air intake in case the engine runs away. It could start and immediately run away. Or randomly do so. * Cut off the air is the only sure way to shut it off if it's eating it's own oil.*
7 Test crank the engine and anytime you do so be ready to drop a board on it if it lights off.
8 If it sounds ok in above step try and start it by hooking up the IP 12v
9 Engine shut off is any of the three*:
a) remove 12v from IP
b) Kink return line from IP shut
c) Drop air cut off on intake. *This is the only one that is guaranteed to work no matter what.
I would seal up a lower hose, kink whatever, and fill the cooling system. With the t-stat crossover off I would test run the engine and look for bubbles coming from one or both sides indicating a combustion leak from a crack or HG failure.
I see two engines in the picture. What's the deal with the current CUCV engine?