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HMMWV Crate motor?

Ratkilr

Member
Messages
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Location
TN
Hello again. I just recently purchased a HMMWV 6.5LT H.O. motor that was still in the crate. I do not know a lot about this motor except the person that I purchased it from said he thought it was new crate motor and not a reman? That was what he was told when he purchased it. He has had it 2yrs and was going to but it in a J10 Jeep that he recently sold. I pick it up for $1000.00 So I thought it was a good deal. I am going to put it in a 86 M1009 CUCV. And add a Holset HX35w with a Banks passenger side exhuast manifold. Does anyone the HP-Torgue numbers for this motor?
 

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That is not a factory sticker on the valve cover from either gm, gep, or military.

That is a n/a engine of some kind. Take and post a picture of the Julian date code on theright rear of the block just behind the head. Also take a pic of the left side rear top bell housing. I’ll post a pic of the area in a couple minutes.

From the right front stamp, I can tell you it is a gm block of some kind, not a GEP from zooming in on your pic:
55933

The next picture is my GEP. The red circle is the casting group. The blue circle is the julian date code. These are the numbers needed.55934
 
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Also on the injection pump, there is a metal label on it about 2” X 3” that has a bunch of stamped numbers. Wipe it clean enough to read those numbers in the pic and post it.
Then the injectors should have a colored ring on it. What color are they?
 
Thank you for fast reply! The injectors really do not have any color on them? They are Delphi and there looks to be a sealant on the middle of the injector and I’m guessing it was white from the factory and now is turning yellow?? The injector pump reads
M4 DB2 831-5149
11d47319 12550433
Once again thank you Will L.
 

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I personally removed it from the military crate. And yes one side and the top of the crate were already removed. Any opening that the motor had hoses-exhaust-intake were covered and caped from the factory. It had been sitting in an old garage that his late grandfather owned and no one used but to store things in. "Yes its dirty" but its cleaner than the garage it came out of!! I already have a set of heads that came off a 97 6.5 that have been rebuild and have diamond precups installed. I had planned on installing those heads-holset turbo-banks passenger side turbo exhaust manifold on the 6.2 that was in the CUCV. Now that I have this motor on hand the game plan is probably going to change some......
 
Pump info:
DB2831-5149 12550433 1994-96 HMMWV (Military) - N/A, 1.2 cSt (170 hp) * — —
Definitely not high output. Your injectors will be the lower ones as well.

The F 09 9 breaks down as June 09, 1999. That is the last casting change that was ever done by GM.
A= Jan
B=Feb
Next two digits are day of the month.
Last digit is the year 9 is 1999
8 would be 1998...

So you have a 50% chance there is diamond precups in there.

Tear it all down and see what you have- dollar to a donut says that came out of a hmmwv when the hmmwv got an optimizer installed during overhaul.

Sorry to be bearer of bad news on the homemade sticker.
The engine crate makes a great test stand with a little modification.

This is not a rebuilt engine. The caps everywhere are for storage on removed ran engines. See the cut fuel line with the cap I circled? This hose does not used as crimped on rebuilds. For one example. They are just required to cap ends that can bleed oils and fuels. There are several other things that could be pointed out, but moot. Tear it apart and see how she looks.
Get a mic incylinders 7& 8 asap. Then look at main webs.55950
 
Also, incase you aren’t aware- that intake manifold on there that resembles the lower on a truck- is different slightly and is only used on n/a hmmwv/hummers. The turbo ones use a very different intake manifold.
 
Ok so this a motor that was already in a HMMWV and pulled? The exhuast manifolds are clean like new on the inside. I know there’s no way to tell until I pull it apart. Would it be wise to “NOT” run the IP on it or leave it alone? The only reason I am asking is it is sitting on a engine stand not in the truck so now would be the time to change anything that should be. I’m planning on installing a gear drive time set and already have brand new Bosch 6.5 turbo injectors. Before I get carried away I have to ask. This is or would be a better motor for the CUCV?? Than the 6.2 with 60,000 miles on it??
 
This is or would be a better motor for the CUCV?? Than the 6.2 with 60,000 miles on it??

Tough to tell without seeing the innards of both.

As mentioned, try to see in side #8 and #7.

Might get lucky in that the pulled motor sat most of its life in a storage lot and got little use.

Another thing to consider is that if there is any oil in the sump and it does not look like a fresh fill, send it out for analysis.
 
Ok so this a motor that was already in a HMMWV and pulled? The exhuast manifolds are clean like new on the inside. I know there’s no way to tell until I pull it apart. Would it be wise to “NOT” run the IP on it or leave it alone? The only reason I am asking is it is sitting on a engine stand not in the truck so now would be the time to change anything that should be. I’m planning on installing a gear drive time set and already have brand new Bosch 6.5 turbo injectors. Before I get carried away I have to ask. This is or would be a better motor for the CUCV?? Than the 6.2 with 60,000 miles on it??

Hard to tell if you got a good deal or a boat anchor without a tear down. You have a used engine until proven otherwise. It may be a rebuilt used engine that wasn't installed. Rebuilt and ran is possible. Some of the surplus engines I got you could eat out of the valve covers. However the surplus auction the engine came from doesn't say if the engine was removed after a firefight and everything including the engine was not only expendable but expended. Full of dessert sand, overheated, ran out of oil...

Not sure on the OBS blazer if the HMMWV oil pan will fit. Oil pan and oil pump will need to be swapped. Good inspection from the bottom end.

The IP that has sat so long is a gamble for seals leaking and the governor sticking wide open. That's a s#it your pants moment that will just hammer the valves if you are lucky if not : a high RPM "BOOM!" Safe option is to send it out for a rebuild. If it does run away the safest place to be is behind or in front of the engine. If you can't shut it down with an intake air cutoff your exit had better be preplanned and clear and not go beside the engine. Some have no idea what a diesel runaway is so hopefully I am just talking to myself here.

If it was me I would mount the engine back in the military crate and test run it:

I assume you have spun the engine over slowly by hand.

1 Hook up a bypass hose on the oil cooler ports. Add a mechanical oil pressure gauge
2 Prime the oil system. You will need an oil pump drive installed.
3 You have to change the 24v top cover of the IP anyway (Again send it out for a rebuild is the safe option.)

A) remove IP

B) pour out the old mystery liquid

C) fill it back up with Powerservice grey bottle

D) Spin it both directions by hand so the vane pump and other things get a taste of it.

E) install a 12v top cover making sure to install it so the shutoff isn't pinning the fuel valve WOT.

i) Hit the shut off with 12v and be dammed sure it clicks. No click you did it wrong.

F) Re-install IP

* I forget offhand what way you slide the cover during install, but, you have the shut off that moves the linkage from WOT to "off" during install of the top cover. Again 12v test jumpers and "Click" passes the test. Be sure both solenoids (cold advance) clicks in case you mix em up. *

4 Hook up fuel lines to a 5 gal diesel jug. Most use a electric lift pump...
5 Hook up electrical to starter (We Crank first and then electric to IP.)
6 Have a board or other method to drop on the air intake in case the engine runs away. It could start and immediately run away. Or randomly do so. * Cut off the air is the only sure way to shut it off if it's eating it's own oil.*
7 Test crank the engine and anytime you do so be ready to drop a board on it if it lights off.
8 If it sounds ok in above step try and start it by hooking up the IP 12v
9 Engine shut off is any of the three*:

a) remove 12v from IP

b) Kink return line from IP shut

c) Drop air cut off on intake. *This is the only one that is guaranteed to work no matter what.


I would seal up a lower hose, kink whatever, and fill the cooling system. With the t-stat crossover off I would test run the engine and look for bubbles coming from one or both sides indicating a combustion leak from a crack or HG failure.


I see two engines in the picture. What's the deal with the current CUCV engine?
 
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The engine on the other stand is 97 truck 6.5. Its the one I stole the heads and intake off of for the 6.2. The current CUCV 6.2 got a hole in the radiator "With out me knowing" back on a New Years day outing and got hot! We were 15 miles from the nearest asphalt. So it had to be drove out. It still starts and runs but the oil pressure is down form 45lbs at idle to about 17-19lbs. So I'm not putting a turbo on the 6.2. I was considering rebuilding it then I thought rebuild the 6.5 and just swap the 6.5 in for the 6.2. But then a friend came across the HMMWV motor in KY. What I have never really understood is that there is a huge military base in the town that I live in "FT Campbell" but you cannot lay your hands on any military stuff. Everything gets shipped out of here and goes wherever?? Stuff "Falls off of trucks" from time to time but nothing like motors-trucks and so on. I did wash off a few years of dust and dirt off the motor and found this??? And what does this tube in the back of the block do? Or what does it hook to?
 

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What I have never really understood is that there is a huge military base in the town that I live in "FT Campbell" but you cannot lay your hands on any military stuff. Everything gets shipped out of here and goes wherever??

Uncle has gotten better at a supply chain for used equipment and it goes to centralized locations for auction.

In case you are thinking about an excess generator, fugheddaboudid! Those things are going to Africa. Really! Turns out that it is far cheaper for them to overbid folks here in the US, ship it across the Atlantic, and fix the old equipment than pay taxes on anything new.
 
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