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Hi all I am back!!!!

G

Goose57

Well-Known Member
Messages
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Location
Eureka Mo.
Hey guys it’s been awhile. Broke my foot mountain biking. Life does get in the way💁. I believe my last post was April 25’. I had just finished my Optimizer build Remember? I think I may have wiped the main bearings. A little history: started up one morning and heard some bearing noise. Went to engine bay to see where it’s coming from, shut it off checked the oil. Half a quart low, that’s not it dammit 🤯. Restarted no bearing noise so took it up the street no noise. Watched oil gauge fluctuating some. Still no noise. Went to Auto Zone to get an oil gauge oil filter and oil, didn’t trust the dash gauge. Changed the oil and filter. Teed the gauge in at the OPS hose started it up and 40psi then started to drop 15-20psi then 0. No bearing noise, WTF💁. Shut off the motor bled gauge, same thing. Rev,ed the motor a little and then bearing noise came back 🤯. Drained the oil, filled a 5 gal bucket w/ oil and antifreeze, shit. Where did that come from 🤔. Did not cut open oil filter yet. Shut the hood and cried😂.
Motor was a new long block from Leroy,s maybe 2500 miles on it. Ran the new motor at first w/ non synthetic oil and then when to synthetic, as per Leroy. On here to get suggestions on how to attack this. Heres what I was going to do:

Cut open oil filter.
Fill it back up w/water.
Put oil in and filter.
Prime the oil pump by hand, watched the gauge I already installed.
Do a compression test.
Anything else? Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks guys. Glad to be back, missed you guys. Oh went out and bought a new truck.IMG_0375.jpeg
 
Flashing is a bad problem with them.
Did you disassemble the engine and remove the flashing? That is where my money is.
100% agree with Bison- right now you probably have an engine worth saving IF AND ONLY IF you tear it down NOW. Don’t start it again.

A new optimizer isn’t cheap- but compare it to a new crate duramax…
 
Thanks guys. I figured pulling the motor would be in my future. I was curious on the coolant in the oil. It wasn’t there when I checked it before the test drive. It didn’t overheat. I did source a different oil pump drive unit. Because I cut up the original one using it to prime the new motor. What the hell is Flashing? Thanks again guys.
 
Coolant in oil comes from headgasket; head studs not sealed or a leaking head bolt; cracked block; cracked head. Or simply mistake of pouting some in there which happens at oil change places more often than folks know because they start out kids with no experience.

The most likely issue of the oil pressure drop is the coolant in the oil- but I am assuming you drained out the contaminated oil, put in new and the pressure issue continued with the oil not re-contaminating right away. I just re-read your post and realized I understood wrong the first time.

I am too quick to jump to flashing failure because I see it so often in optimizers.
Removing it is an easy diy even for first time guys. I have some pics showing 6.5 -GM & GEP. I made videos long ago I want to put on YouTube but my tech crew (older son) is busy on his job so that becomes another to-do project.

I will make a thread specific to it and post a link here.
 
Here is the thread I am starting about flashing. I titled it with different terms so others searching the subject would find it when using one of the various descriptions.
Will L.

Post in thread 'Flashing; Castings; sand pocket; Removal. Oil return flow improvements done during rebuild.'

IMG_5704.pngIMG_5698.png

Here is before/ after example. I don’t think same head I used here but you can see the flashing before removing and the shiny & smooth area afterwards.
This is in brand new P400 heads. So yes, still a problem in the p400.
 
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