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Help needed on long island

E

Evil Twin 56

New Member
Messages
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Location
Long Island,N.Y.
Hi all,
been a long time diesel enthusiast and member of SEVERL forums, but havent really had time to post due to a crazy work schedual. Anyhow, I had a problem with my '99 Suburban yesterday and called a long time friend of mine who recommended i join and post here for possible help.....Tim aka Turbine Doc.
My problem is that while driving yesterday around the corner from home the truck sputtered and died....never had a bit of problems with her and there was no indication of something brewing either.... anyhow, i checked the obvious....good fuel flow, all grounds good and clean, etc.... but while looking at the IP, i noticed it was LOOSE! After further investigation, I discovered that the flange nuts had all backed completely off and the pump kicked out a bit.... so obviously the timing is way out of spec...
Being the STUPID FRIGGING MORON that I am, I had sold all my 6.5 tools AND my MT2500 scanner and TECH2 as well years ago....so I'm pretty sure you guys can figure out exactly which CREEK I'm up without a paddle.... So if there's anyone on Long Island, or anyone that can be recommended on the Island for help I would GREATLY appreciate it....
I'm not 100% sure, but the pump probably skipped with the gears/chain since the pump backed out.....I towed it home and was able to get it to start....but she runs like crap and wont do anything but idle at around 500rpm.....wont accelerate or anything and the only way I got this much was to put a nut on the top flange stud to get the pump back against the engine mount and have the punp rotated to the left as far as it would go......IIRC this would be full retard when the shutoff solenoid is rotated to the driver's side. :???:
So there you have it.....I got a dead truck and no tools.... :mad2:
Tom
 
leaning to the DS is advanced. so your timing is retarded. if there's no one in your area you might want to check out carcode.
 
We are assuming the loose bolts were the problem. This is a bad way to go about it. I would take a few more steps before freshening up the water pump and timing chain. These engines have a bad habit of failing something that isn't obvious.

The warning is severe damage to the pump drive if you attempt to time the engine while running. Loose bolts would qualify for this warning as the engine was timing itself... The pump moving out of the engine will also change timing due to the gear cut.

Clean the top of the pump and timing cover off and look for the lines. Then line the pump and the cover lines up. This should be base timing allowing the engine to start.

Have you checked the computer for codes? Any smoke? SES light on when running? The not revving up may be due to codes. Next you should check hose condition and for any leaks from the injector lines. Looking for possible cracks from constant movement.

If everything indicates a timing problem I suggest the only new parts you need would be the chain and maybe a the harmonic balancer. The other parts like the gears and timing cover can be found used. This includes a used IP if it was damaged, bent, etc - but this is your preference. The other parts do not matter new/used.

As there may have been metal grinding off you should check the CPS out that is in the timing cover. Magnet may be full of metal. This would be by codes because if you remove it you replace it as they fall apart. At this point you are replacing parts anyway. It may be the reason the engine stopped.
 
WarWagon said:
We are assuming the loose bolts were the problem. This is a bad way to go about it. I would take a few more steps before freshening up the water pump and timing chain. These engines have a bad habit of failing something that isn't obvious.

The warning is severe damage to the pump drive if you attempt to time the engine while running. Loose bolts would qualify for this warning as the engine was timing itself... The pump moving out of the engine will also change timing due to the gear cut.

Clean the top of the pump and timing cover off and look for the lines. Then line the pump and the cover lines up. This should be base timing allowing the engine to start.

Have you checked the computer for codes? Any smoke? SES light on when running? The not revving up may be due to codes. Next you should check hose condition and for any leaks from the injector lines. Looking for possible cracks from constant movement.

If everything indicates a timing problem I suggest the only new parts you need would be the chain and maybe a the harmonic balancer. The other parts like the gears and timing cover can be found used. This includes a used IP if it was damaged, bent, etc - but this is your preference. The other parts do not matter new/used.

As there may have been metal grinding off you should check the CPS out that is in the timing cover. Magnet may be full of metal. This would be by codes because if you remove it you replace it as they fall apart. At this point you are replacing parts anyway. It may be the reason the engine stopped.
Click to expand...

Yup...checked for codes....the only one was for timing out of spec which is to be expected....no other codes, no smoke, just a real crappy and low idle with no response from the accelerator at all. No other leaks or anything else found so far, just the loose pump. I've always been on top of maintaince and all the mods that can be done to improve performance and reliability...I'm guessing that the previous owner's mechanic or shop where the truck was at before I bought it is to blame since the injection pump was brand new when I got the truck... I'm fairly certain that because of the pump backing out, even though it was a small amount, it caused the timing to get screwed up and skip a few teeth....and I've already thought about the CPS having a few metal shavings on it due to the skipping....but it doesn't pay for me to start a job that I can't complete yet since without a scanner I'm dead in the water anyhow... :(
This crap ALWAYS happens at the worst time possible!!!
Thanks for the replies!!!
Tom
 
Hey guys Tom is an old 6.5 hand ya'll mite remember him as RATDOC back in the day, before his life got hectic and he could not participate in forums, he plays DMAX now most days unless his wife's Burb is down and you know what it's like when the "grocery getter" is down and wife can't drive "her" vehicle.

I won't be anywhere with internet access for rest of the week so if you can watch this one close please, also anybody near Tom willing to loan out use of a scan tool and tools he doesn't have any 6.5 tools ( I bought his old MT2500 scanner :) ) can you swing by and see if you can help him get his burb re-timed. I'm away from home or I'd send him mine.

Tim
 
Hey Tom If you need Moral support I'm in Brooklyn....I don't have anything to set your TDCO but if you need a hand to hold your wrenches, beer, Whatever let me know.

Where on the Island are you, I'm fighting some issues here too, the wrecker is down (The Rad $h!tcanned and there's coolant in the Trans, but I could take a ride out East in the bed if you need to move the Burb to a shop/friend/workspace or something.

I wish you still had all your 6.5 paraphernalia, but even so, another set of hands and a Flatbed are here if you need it.

There is a guy out East, "Precision", I think.....He's deep in Suffolk and an overpriced shoemaker, when it comes to the 6.5. There is another guy in Nassau (Baldwin) "G&S" I believe he's expensive ($90 hr Labor) but a competent crook.


PM me if you need me.
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Hey Tom If you need Moral support I'm in Brooklyn....I don't have anything to set your TDCO but if you need a hand to hold your wrenches, beer, Whatever let me know.

Where on the Island are you, I'm fighting some issues here too, the wrecker is down (The Rad $h!tcanned and there's coolant in the Trans, but I could take a ride out East in the bed if you need to move the Burb to a shop/friend/workspace or something.

I wish you still had all your 6.5 paraphernalia, but even so, another set of hands and a Flatbed are here if you need it.

There is a guy out East, "Precision", I think.....He's deep in Suffolk and an overpriced shoemaker, when it comes to the 6.5. There is another guy in Nassau (Baldwin) "G&S" I believe he's expensive ($90 hr Labor) but a competent crook.


PM me if you need me.
Click to expand...

Awesome....THANKS LOUIS!!! Tim aka Turbine Doc did tell me to look you up....might take you up on that offer! :)


As far as I can tell and from the opinions of a few good people that I've spoken to, like Bill Heath, my engine timing should be fine and I'm looking at either a ground issue or a pump issue. I'm gonna check the grounds AGAIN but I'm confident that's not where the problem is....it's one of the first things I always check on 6.5s and I always run a secondary on all my trucks....but I'll recheck it again. As for the pump, there was NO indication of it going south....this truck always started and ran PERFECTLY and even Bill said that it's VERY unlikely for one to just go bad in an instant without some kind of warning.... So he's stumped too! Lol I'm gonna recheck this stuff later tonight after work and report any findings....
Thanks guys!
Tom
 
Here's an update....after much checking and rechecking I found the fuel shut down solenoid to be not working....Bill Heath had mentioned that he could count on 1 finger all the solenoid failures he's encountered, but I guess now he can use 2 fingers.... Lol. Anyhow, I got the pump back where it's supposed to be and I'm waiting on a new solenoid to arrive. Im still trying to locate the correct 12 point nuts for the pump mount flange so if anyone has any extras please give me a shout.... Otherwise I'm gonna have to use regular 6 point nuts. Thanks again for the offer Louis, I sent you a PM....
I'm hoping to have the solenoid by Friday and I'll still need to set the timing, so if anyone local has a scanner to lend please send me a PM or I'll have to wait for Tim (Turbine Doc) to get home so I can borrow back my old Mt2500.....
Thanks again for the replies!
Tom
 
Can you remove the plunger from the shut off solenoid? IIR the ecm controls the fuel, so FSO plunger can be removed.
 
Sorry would love to help out with my scantool/tools etc but I am currently visiting family in the UK and will not return until the 22nd. If by then you are still having issues I'll see what I can do.

Look up DaveNY on the DieselPage he might be able to help you out, he is in Sayville.

Good Luck
Cheers
Nobby
 
nobby said:
Sorry would love to help out with my scantool/tools etc but I am currently visiting family in the UK and will not return until the 22nd. If by then you are still having issues I'll see what I can do.

Look up DaveNY on the DieselPage he might be able to help you out, he is in Sayville.

Good Luck
Cheers
Nobby
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer....I may try to get in touch with him, or borrow my old MT2500 from Turbine Doc, or maybe just wait until after you get back since this week is gonna be very hectic for me anyhow due to work....
Tom
 
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