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Help a Brother Out #2

Yup, it's a 97, but made in 96. GM was and might still be notorious for having vehicles equipped with previous year model parts where on certain years you walk in to a parts store asking for your years parts and there not the right ones as they changed designs in mid flight production. we see some of this on equipment in our shop where when we finally contact the dealers they ask what the serial number is since in mid year they used different parts.

I had the hydroboost question on mine since my original one has some sort of bypass tube bolted to the top side and the one I received at the parts house didn't have this. I haven't found the answer to it, but I'm convinced that it has something to do with the HB having the ability to bypass a portion of fluid to the steering box. ever since I had replaced all the components, my steering seemed a little stiff.
 
Ironic you say that, I replaced the hydroboost and master cylinder quite a while back.. and it always seems like it screwed up my steering and brakes even worse...
 
mine stops ok, but I recently found out when towing my daughters jetta with a tow dollie, it didn't like the extra weight. almost ended up in the middle of an intersection. mt pedal has always been stiffer than I prefer as well as the steering. the other day I got to drive my buddy's 3/4 ton dmax pickup, his was a 2003 so it's not much different than mine, but his pedal was a feathers touch compared to mine and stopped on a dime! I know there is something wrong on mine with all the parts changing but just haven't put my finger on it yet.
 
Mine is a 1995 and single rear wheel. but should be the same as your 97 other than the computer system. I know it's concidered a heavy duty, at least that's what the dealer told me and my door sticker shows GVWR at 9000lb
 
My GVWR is 10,000. So I assume it is a heavy duty... which may be part of my problem, when you buy parts at AutoZone they always ask you if it's the $10, 000 weight rating or not and before now I always thought it was the lower one...
 
The autozone here got that name from back in the day all the low riders, old caprice and malibu's would hang out in their parking lot with the hoods up. someone was always hanging upside down under the hood changing parts. full blown mechanic shop in their parking lot on the weekends!
 
Well..it came home on a roll bed again today. Been having trouble starting it for awhile.. acts like the batterys are low. Cranks hard but starts.. today it did that in the hospital parking lot but wouldn't start and eventually would not even click over,.
What doesn't make sense is 1) those batteries are only 6 months old...
And two the tow truck driver try to hooking his truck to one of the batteries and his jumper pack to the other battery and it's still just clicked, no response at the starter or anything..so I'm not sure if the batteries are bad or if the starter went bad or the voltage regulator in the alternator.
If anybody wants a truck let me know lol
 
That's my guess to.. although I truly hope not . Other thing I noticed..the lift pump sounded weird like it was cutting on and off while warming the glow plugs. So I got under truck and unplugged it and in the plug was seriously wet. I believe it was diesel in it. Glad it's under warranty..wish the starter was..lol
 
Could be a worn out starter. Turner's alternators/ starters/ batteries in Penn Yan rebuilds them for pretty cheap. Could also be bad alternator. Folks on here will also tell you to load test the batteries, not just amp/ volt test

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Turner A, S & B

Electrical repair, alternators, starters and batteries. 2359 Rt. 14A, Penn Yan, NY 14527
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@DieselAmateur thank you.. I considered that the alternator could be bad because if I understand right the voltage regulator is built in to it.. once the truck is running it holds 14-15 volts just fine. Which is my only reason thinking not alternator. But could be wrong..
. And like I said the tow truck driver hooked his truck to one battery and booster box to other battery and we got nothing. Just clicking sound..
Once I get it running (if it's the starter) I may take it to them to get old one fixed to have for a spare when money allows..Penn Yan is about an hour from here or so.. and as usual this truck is my only transportation...but shit happens..lol
 
Do a voltage drop test on the starter cable . Check across the pos and neg battery terminals and at the starter . Should be close to the same voltage . Then have someone try to start the truck . If it really drops , you have a bad cable .
 
And a huge culprit is the lead washer that goes between the two Positive cable ends on the Passenger side battery. It gets squished flat over time and makes poor/intermittent contact between the cable ends - which causes issues with starting, charging and system voltage. You should be running between 13.8 and 14.2 volts on the gauge when the engine is running and the batteries are charged. 15V indicates a dead battery/bad connection.
 
Stoney said:
I'll ask what some of that means in the morning.. but for now I just gotta ask... should I check the pmd? Lol. Seriously
Click to expand...
You need to get the engine so it will crank over before worrimg about the PMD. The PMD will not affect the way that the engine cranks over.
I am with the above posters, You have a serious battery cable problem.
 
There's a difference in terms of no start or no cranking . If the engine does not turn over , PMD is not even into play . Electrical current/voltage travels around the circumference of the individual strands of the starter/battery cables . Corrosion is a big deal and if that is present anywhere on/in the cable , that is a blockage for electrical flow . A voltage drop will let you know what the starter is seeing for electrical power . Marty must have been typing as I was . Sucks to be old and not able to sleep .
 
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