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Help a Brother Out #2

torque pro will do the job but you will need to bassically add each gauge to it's dashboard it can be customized so you can monitor what you want while on the road. kinda like what I am working on for my truck in the thread I started for digital gauges. once you learn all the functions of the app you can use it for diagnosing and for gauges. but it will take you some time to set it up. I think the app for the full version is $5 but I don't want you to spend money on it where you might not need to.
 
but for the safety aspect. the brakes are more important. not sure what your work schedule is like but I would suggest trying to pull your drums and check the adjustment on the shoes. what line was installed that is mismatched? just jacking it up and spinning the tires to see which one is dragging. it's possible to even be the emergency brake cable that is froze, not sure if you have used them recently
 
Stoney said:
Can one of you help me verify the correct rear brake hose , wheel cylinders and metal brake line to rear wheel size?
It's a 97' c3500 crew cab dually 8ft box ..I Kno guys have said there's been mix ups with the wheel cylinders, stores selling ones for srw to guys that have dual rear wheel and vice versa...
Just a thought. Could the over load on the tranny from the brakes dragging have been what smoked my old tranny?
Click to expand...

The front brake lines are 3/16"

brake line that runs from ABS along driver side frame rail is 1/4".

At the rear tee the lines go back down to 3/16"

Any decent shop worth its salt should be able to make up all new brake lines for you using the corrosion-resistant nickel copper tubing. What's crazy is that on my '95 there was rubber brake hose along frame rail and across front end connecting hard line from ABS to passenger side caliper. Such a stupid failure prone design from the geniuses at GM

If you want you could make most of the lines yourself, pick up the nickel tubing from a store or online. I don't like supporting Amazon but here's a link to an example


Pretty sure you can buy the necessary flaring tool kit at a place like advance auto, or even rent the tool from advance auto for free and make your own lines for cheap.

Taken from Ferm's brake upgrade thread using factory parts, the correct rear wheel cylinder size is 1 3/16" wheel cylinders (RAYBESTOS #WC37337)

With the drums off make sure the nimrod who last did you brakes used the correct 3.5" wide shoes, and also check to make sure you have 3.5" drums (don't know if drums were kept or new ones put in)

Sounds like you may have found the source of your cooked brake fluid back there. I know stuff adds up fast and inflation ain't helping any, but the copper lines are essential especially here in salt country and knowing that all your plumbing is solid will help isolate whatever is mucking up your brakes.
 
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Stoney I could send you a throttle pedal assembly to try on your truck. I know I have a couple extras kicking around in my shop. Just send me a message with your address and I'll ship it to you.
I've been trying to quickly read through the pages on this post and get up to speed.
How is your steering with and without your foot on the brake?
Are your parking brake cables free? One that's not releasing could cause the heat. Even with the leaks you shouldn't see more heat on that side vs the other. If the cables are frozen, they can cause real problems. I had to cut the ones on my sons '96 6.5 truck at the backing plates to release his so he could drive it until we put new cables on it.
When the brake pedal is hard , does it stop better? Low hydraulic pressure would give you a harder pedal but less stopping power.
 
Your electrical issue has me a little puzzled. Did you replace the ignition switch with a Duralast? If wiggling wires behind the heater is causing running issues also, I would think ignition switch. It's got to be a loose connection somewhere. If it was a short it would be popping fuses. Without looking at a wiring diagram, I think the ignition switch separates the engine from the accessories.
 
I replaced the ignition yes . I changed the part the key goes in. Yes I used duralast I'm sure.. Im not sure what is causing it but at times I turn the key and it just makes a clicking sound like the solinoid makes when the battery is dead what's weird is that if I'm screwing with the wires in the dash sometimes I can move them a certain way and It won't even click when I turn the key. No start no click nothing. Wiggle wires more and then it starts when I turn key.
I discovered when I changed the tranny a month or so ago that the tiny post on the solenoid that the small ignition wire goes on is broke loose. It spins in the solinoid a bit. But still gets enough contact to start the truck. I can understand the clicking being the solenoid not getting a good connection for a minute when I'm turning the key back and forth. Then after a few times it finally gets a connection and starts. But that doesn't explain it going completely dead and doing nothing at all when I turn the key when I move the wires in the dash.
 
That's true. I honestly don't remember why I changed it to begin with. I think it was cause of something the truck was doing and I misunderstood what I read and just changed the key part... But I think whatever it was it didn't fix the problem I was having at the time so I fired the parts cannon again finally it drove again
 
Ok. I was gonna get under it and back them off before I go to work today. Try to stop some of the dragging.. I'm tempted to just cut the mismatched line and crimp it with some pliers.or open the bleeder .
 
jrsavoie said:
There is a ground to the heater blower that overheats and causes damage.

Right by the computer. As suggested add a ground there to the dash mount bolt just a few inches away. Fix any wire damage in that area.

You will need a 5/16 eyelet. I most often use 10 ga. Wire for that. 14 ga or bigger should be fine.
Click to expand...
Is that ground visible with the glove box out?
 
If the brake is dragging, opening the bleeder or pinching off the line won't help unless the pressure isn't releasing which is highly unlikely. If it's caused by the Parking brake (which would be my guess) the fastest way to release it is to cut the cable as close to the backing plate as you can get it. a cut off wheel in a right angle grinder works well for that.
 
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