Got the truck running.. new starter..fired right up. And running good.. of course it's a AutoZone starter so it probably won't last long but I'll cross that bridge later..not sure about the terminal ends.they seem to work good..I am going to clean them up though... I got them because they allowed everything to be hooked into them without a ton of connections smoshed together... Not sure what y'all mean About foil wrap on the cables.. I don't know how to solder.
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Help a Brother Out #2
- Thread starter Jaryd
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Ya know Renolds wrap, the kitchen stuff for left overs or baking potatoes in a campfire?
That is aluminum foil.
There is also, usually available at commercial electrical supply houses and sometimes at hardware stores, copper foil. It is just like the aluminum stuff, except usually a smaller roll like the size of masking tape. It is 100% copper, no glue or anything on it. You DO NOT want the kind listed as tape. Sometimes it is sold as “shim” material.
The purpose is when you tighten the set screws in the lug, the set screw can push the fine strand wires away and you dont make contact with them all because they get pushed outward.
So after cleaning, rinsing, and drying the wires: cut the foil to the same length as the bare wire. Wrap it around the fine wire strands 1.5 times. Where the foil is doubled up, you want the set screw contacting there. When you tighten the set screw it will smash into the foil compressing the wire strands together tightly.
If you know a commercial electrician, they often have a scrap piece to give you. You need about $1 worth.
Then you would apply the stuff to make it protected from the air. If you can get a piece of heat shrink to fit over the end of the connector and the wires, that would be excellent. You just heat it up with a heat gun, hair dryer, etc and it will shrink onto the connection sealing it up. If no heat shrink, then use the nolox or the spray.
That is aluminum foil.
There is also, usually available at commercial electrical supply houses and sometimes at hardware stores, copper foil. It is just like the aluminum stuff, except usually a smaller roll like the size of masking tape. It is 100% copper, no glue or anything on it. You DO NOT want the kind listed as tape. Sometimes it is sold as “shim” material.
The purpose is when you tighten the set screws in the lug, the set screw can push the fine strand wires away and you dont make contact with them all because they get pushed outward.
So after cleaning, rinsing, and drying the wires: cut the foil to the same length as the bare wire. Wrap it around the fine wire strands 1.5 times. Where the foil is doubled up, you want the set screw contacting there. When you tighten the set screw it will smash into the foil compressing the wire strands together tightly.
If you know a commercial electrician, they often have a scrap piece to give you. You need about $1 worth.
Then you would apply the stuff to make it protected from the air. If you can get a piece of heat shrink to fit over the end of the connector and the wires, that would be excellent. You just heat it up with a heat gun, hair dryer, etc and it will shrink onto the connection sealing it up. If no heat shrink, then use the nolox or the spray.
Ok got it.. I'll see if I can get it Monday. Local electrical place is closed on weekends... Since moving the ground wires and changing the starter the truck is running awesome as far as power and starting fast. Hopefully I'll make enough this week to buy the brake line for the back brakes and get it into a shop to get it power bleed and have the abs triggered ... general consensus is that there's air in the and box or there's something sticking in it..
I'm seriously considering the option of elimination of abs..I'm not a fan of it anyway...
I'm seriously considering the option of elimination of abs..I'm not a fan of it anyway...
Way off subject but how do you identify a p400...or a optimizer engine? Asking cause I found 2 different 6.5s I'm looking at for a spare engine...I can get them cheap as heck or on a trade.. one is in a 99' mini bus. Like old folks homes use to take the people places. The other is in a truck.. just wondering what to look for
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
not sure about the engine, but if you can get your hands on a spare parts truck, you could make good use with all the spare parts!
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I am fond of getting spare parts if they are free, but when you have to drive around with a brake system that could have you tried for murder in an accident that’s your fault, it makes me hesitant to say you should get a spare engine if it costs you $50.
But I will find and post pics identifying them for you. Chances you find a p400 is nuts. If you do, imo you should sell it for a few grand and use that money to improve the rest of the truck.
Glad truck is running, don’t worry about the electrical until the brakes are fixed
But I will find and post pics identifying them for you. Chances you find a p400 is nuts. If you do, imo you should sell it for a few grand and use that money to improve the rest of the truck.
Glad truck is running, don’t worry about the electrical until the brakes are fixed
Will L.
Well-Known Member
This is a p400. The big “spacer part” with the yellow arrow pointing to it is the bed plate (aka full girdle in the world outside the 6.5).
It is only found on p400.
Obviously ignore the colors of the parts.
It is only found on p400.
Obviously ignore the colors of the parts.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Here is picture from @Trucker2k16 which looks sweet with the red intake.
I circled in yellow the “endless roads” symbol that looks like two triangles back to back in the valley below where your ffm sits.
This is the main clue. GM blocks do not have it. I post the unmodified pic so you can see the other casting symbols which are on GM and Optimizer blocks.
I circled in yellow the “endless roads” symbol that looks like two triangles back to back in the valley below where your ffm sits.
This is the main clue. GM blocks do not have it. I post the unmodified pic so you can see the other casting symbols which are on GM and Optimizer blocks.
@Will L. The other engines are not something I'd be getting right away. The guy that has them is a good friend. He's clearing out a bunch of junk vehicles he has. He said if I want them he won't get rid of those 2. He knows I don't have the cash right now.. he's actually gave me alot of parts for free to help me out. And I can always work off money if I owe him for something... He's pretty broke these days to but always willing to trade parts for labor or whatnot...
The brakes actually did get fixed once. But the line wasn't any good and only held a few days.
The brakes actually did get fixed once. But the line wasn't any good and only held a few days.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
As for a spare engine- if it’s super cheap, so what if it is another gm 6.5. The reason so many of us that have been into the 6.5 world so long is because we used to get $50 running engines. When prices of everything were half what they are now- a fair price for a complete running 6.5 was $250-300. I know a lot of us talk about the wonderful 6.5, but man don’t get it twisted. This engine really is as crappy as WarWagon makes them out to be. They are so crappy people gave away running ones for free often. Now they are just getting rare, snd people have learned if you only invest a couple thousand dollars into fixing these 10 problems it can then be a reliable, long term rig. And if you pour a lot of your own free labor into it and if you bump the money up to 8-10 grand you can make a really good one. Now days to make a great one you have to start with buying a 8 thousand dollar one, and put thousands more into it. And under proper circumstances you can do it all on the cheap- but that is honestly few and far between.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
They might be crappy but I like my crappy truck haha 