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Heater hose routing coolant circuit

Oh, ok. Yeah- look at amp draw of each unit and add the amps.
I should have said above- never just replace the 15 amp receptacle with a 20 amp one without verification of 20 amp breaker AND 12 awg wire in use.

the device Denata shows is a great one for high amp useage, available in 110/120 volt and 220/240 volt. Another device to ONLY get high quality. But not to be confused with a gfci.
The device denata shows is to protect equipment/ wires, same for breaker in your house-
Neither of them ever protect YOU. Only gfci or afci protect people.

And since I am playing electrical safety sally already:
ANYTyou get an electrical shock from ac power - go to a doctor and DEMAND an ekg. It happens often that a person will get what they feel was a small shock, like Christmas tree lights in December- then die of heart failure in January or February. Obviously it can happen instantly- but almost no one realizes what happens long term:

We all seen on tv: person on table: doctor yells “CLEAR” and zaps the guy with the paddles. Dude comes back to normal and dad gets to throw the baseball with little johnny- happy ending. But real world that is a Defibrillator and your heart has a special rhythm to work properly. An electrical shock does the same thing that doctor tool does but in reverse. It’s like messing up the valve timing from the piston timing. Maybe like a timing chain jumping a tooth or two. The engine can continue to run but doesn’t work right and doesn’t blow the engine up until you rev it up to high rpm.
Explaining to the doctor you had an electrical shock amd you need your heart checked- they usually do this immediately- as in no waiting room. This is akin to a heart attack because that is what is about to happen to you at any time! The unit gets hooked up in 30 seconds time and in 2-3 minutes they can tell you everything is fine and you are on your way home. Or- they have to defibrillate you and just saved your life- but they cant do it if you are being a dumb ass and don’t wanna go get checked. Yes many people, me included been shocked and everything is perfectly fine 999 times of 1000. But maybe you are in line at #1000.

THOSE AED Defibrillators you can buy for your home can and have saved people often.
Messing with electrical or any heart issues in your family and this is probably the smartest buy you will ever make. Go talk to your local fire department/ paramedics about them if you never seen them.

The technology and medical treatment makes all the difference in the world - but if you are too much a wuss to be a little embarrassed to get checked out for the sake of your family, friends, etc- then you need to re-evaluate what it means to be a man.
 
Outdoor outlets should also be on a GFI outlet.
When I rebuilt My house, total gut, wire and insulate, I installeda switch dedicated for vehicular block/engine heaters and put that outlet on a switch inside the house.
Now that I have the garage with plenty of outdoor outlets, that switched outdoor outlet gets used for mainly Christmas lighting. 😹😹😹
Block heaters plugged into the garage, they burn 24/7 during the chilly and cold months.
 
Will L. said:
Oh, ok. Yeah- look at amp draw of each unit and add the amps.
I should have said above- never just replace the 15 amp receptacle with a 20 amp one without verification of 20 amp breaker AND 12 awg wire in use.

the device Denata shows is a great one for high amp useage, available in 110/120 volt and 220/240 volt. Another device to ONLY get high quality. But not to be confused with a gfci.
The device denata shows is to protect equipment/ wires, same for breaker in your house-
Neither of them ever protect YOU. Only gfci or afci protect people.

And since I am playing electrical safety sally already:
ANYTyou get an electrical shock from ac power - go to a doctor and DEMAND an ekg. It happens often that a person will get what they feel was a small shock, like Christmas tree lights in December- then die of heart failure in January or February. Obviously it can happen instantly- but almost no one realizes what happens long term:

We all seen on tv: person on table: doctor yells “CLEAR” and zaps the guy with the paddles. Dude comes back to normal and dad gets to throw the baseball with little johnny- happy ending. But real world that is a Defibrillator and your heart has a special rhythm to work properly. An electrical shock does the same thing that doctor tool does but in reverse. It’s like messing up the valve timing from the piston timing. Maybe like a timing chain jumping a tooth or two. The engine can continue to run but doesn’t work right and doesn’t blow the engine up until you rev it up to high rpm.
Explaining to the doctor you had an electrical shock amd you need your heart checked- they usually do this immediately- as in no waiting room. This is akin to a heart attack because that is what is about to happen to you at any time! The unit gets hooked up in 30 seconds time and in 2-3 minutes they can tell you everything is fine and you are on your way home. Or- they have to defibrillate you and just saved your life- but they cant do it if you are being a dumb ass and don’t wanna go get checked. Yes many people, me included been shocked and everything is perfectly fine 999 times of 1000. But maybe you are in line at #1000.

THOSE AED Defibrillators you can buy for your home can and have saved people often.
Messing with electrical or any heart issues in your family and this is probably the smartest buy you will ever make. Go talk to your local fire department/ paramedics about them if you never seen them.

The technology and medical treatment makes all the difference in the world - but if you are too much a wuss to be a little embarrassed to get checked out for the sake of your family, friends, etc- then you need to re-evaluate what it means to be a man.
Click to expand...
And being a man does not mean that You suffer from what You think is a case of bad heartburn. Like I once did. When the sweats and shortness of breath strikes, You then will know, without a doubt what is going on.
 
On block heaters. On both my 94 and 98 I had a single, 1000W SELF REGULATING Block Heater in the DS freeze plug location the factory/dealer optioned 600W block heater went.

The trick with a block heater is to NOT use it as a pre-heater to warm up the block/cooling system from the ambient outside temperature to an easier to start temperature, but to rather IMMEDIATELY plug it in after you've finished running and the engine/cooling system is still "hot". This is because it is far easier for the heating element to maintain its max temperature of an already warm engine, than it is to try and bring 4 gallons of coolant and 700+ pounds of block/heads from say 0°F up to 100°F-120°F.

I would plug a 25', 12-3 SOJTW extension cord into a 20A breaker dedicated outlet at the front of one of the garage stalls (my house has two, physically separated attached garage stalls, each with 3 - 20A 120V GFIC circuits for power tools, etc. and a 50A 240V circuit for use with arc welder, HD compressor, etc.) and plug the block heater into that.

Next morning I'd come out to start up, unplug the heater and stash its pigtail behind the bumper, hop in and let it go through one Wait To Start cycle and either one would fire right off with just a slight puff of white smoke and a possible quick, one or two cycles of the GPs while idling. Except on the really cold (-10°- -15°F) mornings, the Temp Gauge needle would already be about a half-needle's width off the "C" mark, just back out of the drive with it already blowing lukewarm air out of the defroster vents and about six blocks from home it would already by up past 140° on the gauge blowing decently hot air and by the time I hit the on ramp and accelerating up it onto US-77 it would be at normal for the 195°F stat(s) and blasting hot air from the defroster/heat vents.

The key is paying the bucks for a good, high quality, 1000W self-regulating block heater that keeps from heating so hot it either boils the block's coolant or burns itself out. They work on the same principle like the 60G self-regulating GPs do.
 
Quite right. It is easier to maintain the temperature than to warm up from 0. Insulated car covers are popular with us. Thick as a blanket. they significantly reduce heat loss.
DSC07689-800x600.jpg2224877_0.jpg
 
Bruh- garages exist for a reason.

Here we decide if repainting in 15 years is worth the cost of a garage or use it as storage room.

Something to think about when using the block heater is adding that anode. It doesn’t matter if your alternator is probably set up to not charge the radiator when engine is running. Adding a block heater absolutely will corrode your aluminum radiator. Or if copper radiator it will corrode your t stat crossover.
 
Mind trying to explain that, @Will L., as the heating element is contained within the sealed stainless steel "probe loop" of the block heater, so there is no current flow within the coolant, and the heater body itself is also grounded? I've used GOOD block heaters going clear back to the Peugeot with none of the issues you mentioned. Now, if there were to be some current flow through an exposed heating element, and thus through the coolant. But then wouldn't you also be zapping yourself every time you grab the door handle and making a ground path? Over 200,000 miles and 20+ years driving on both 6.5's with no radiator failures nor evidence of corrosion inside the T-stat x-over on either one of them.
 
There is corrosion inhibitors in coolant. Proper electrical system will have it at a minimum from running engine. If the element of the electric heater is able to return all the electrons- no issue. When there is bleed over or inductance is when it occurs.

No, the system won’t shock you unless something is drastically wrong with the element.

There is a thing in electrical called induced current where the electrical current going through the heating element will excite free negative ions in the coolant. It is working similar to a transformer. But since you have one half of one loop on the primary side (element) the amount of electrical energy it puts into the coolant should remain very low.

When everything is operating peak condition- nothing will occur. When there is a swing in the coolant ph, or electrical isolation occurs within the same coolant system, is when things go wrong.

Doing the test with your dmm while it is operating is how you could verify nothing is needed and no damage is occurring. The hiccup comes when something goes out of spec and you are unaware. This is when the anode pays for itself. I should have been clear- many trucks never need it. Many trucks also never need a spare tire. An anode is a precautionary move- $20 insurance if you please. And a simple glance at it once in a while to see it is not wearing away says all is good. But notice it is “dissolving” and you have a warning indication before eating an expensive radiator..
 
Will L. said:
There is corrosion inhibitors in coolant. Proper electrical system will have it at a minimum from running engine. If the element of the electric heater is able to return all the electrons- no issue. When there is bleed over or inductance is when it occurs.

No, the system won’t shock you unless something is drastically wrong with the element.

There is a thing in electrical called induced current where the electrical current going through the heating element will excite free negative ions in the coolant. It is working similar to a transformer. But since you have one half of one loop on the primary side (element) the amount of electrical energy it puts into the coolant should remain very low.

When everything is operating peak condition- nothing will occur. When there is a swing in the coolant ph, or electrical isolation occurs within the same coolant system, is when things go wrong.

Doing the test with your dmm while it is operating is how you could verify nothing is needed and no damage is occurring. The hiccup comes when something goes out of spec and you are unaware. This is when the anode pays for itself. I should have been clear- many trucks never need it. Many trucks also never need a spare tire. An anode is a precautionary move- $20 insurance if you please. And a simple glance at it once in a while to see it is not wearing away says all is good. But notice it is “dissolving” and you have a warning indication before eating an expensive radiator..
Click to expand...
I know that boats, plugged into dock outlets needs to run an anode. I read about that years ago but do not remember the details.
If the boats electrical system is functioning as it should and all components are in tiptop condition, no worries, but, the electrical shstem on the dock needs to be in tiptop order too.
 
Well, I always have/had my vehicles on regular maintenance schedules, never used the nasty Dexcool orange in either the pickup or Burb, used diesel rated ethylene glycol-based antifreeze with flush, clean and refills every 24 months and used what the Factory recommended for antifreeze and change intervals on my Peugeot and Audi. And of course used GOOD, high quality, stainless steel block heaters on all four vehicles. The trick is to use GOOD, self-regulating block heaters that won't heat the antifreeze to boiling. Boiling ethylene glycol antifreeze is actually corrosive and exacerbates bi-metalic corrosion between aluminium and steel/iron parts. It's how I lost the block in my 84 Subaru turbo 4x4 station wagon. PO was in a minor accident that rearended a vehicle in front of it. Messed up the bumper, grill and punched a small hole in the radiator. Drove it home from the accident and massively overheated it. Replaced the bumper, grill and radiator. Traded it in at a friend of mine's lot. I bought it and about 3 months later started putting white antifreeze smoke out the tailpipe. Pressure testing showed putting coolant into all four cylinders. Pulled both heads and found that the coolant passages where the steel sleeves were pressed into the aluminium block had corroded through into the cylinder about ¼" down from the top where the sleeve met the machined aluminum stop in the block.

The fix was easy enough. Bought a Left and Right block half new for about $300 each and had my Subaru dealership mechanic buddy just swap over the rotating assembly, the good heads, valvetrain and distributor, I did the intake, turbo and reinstalled it into the wagon.
 
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