ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
The biggest red flag to me is filing the holes to make it fit. Seems like it kinda defeats the purpose of the girdle
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Head studs - what will stop the leak
- Thread starter Will L.
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Maybe we should have this part of discussion on thread for bottom end? Moderators?
Yes and no...buying many cap mounted gidles, even ones that tie to the pan face like a CRE (iirc) I did on a bbc 2 years ago, requires a little rod clearancing, shimming, and hole clearancing. Just like bearings, rings, etc have tolerances that have a range of specifications, gidles do to. This 3 hole simple one is really light and can deflect, but would still help a little. Enough to pay for itself? IDK.
Just how they dont make the block perfect enough to use 1 size bearing, the holes in the blocks for the main caps are not always perfect. Then the height of the caps are not the same. Anyone that has main caps off an engine, place all 5 against each other on a flat surface and feel the top ledges where the bolt heads touch in relation to Each other. It might only be 2 thou off, But in adding a girdle that means something has play or tension. This is why trueing the deck and caps is done st added expense but for better results. then the tension is all applies equally to the caps. This can ever so slightly change the crank bore, and why you fit girdles before align boring the mains.
Building one off like you of I are going towards we will correct that in the build. But playing the mass production game means tolerances. Finding the balance of one size fits all and a PERFECT fit is preference.
Girdles help in a few ways. Cap walk is one, but our caps fit tight and being 4 bolt it isn’t way bad. Look for polished area outside the bolt head diameter as witnesses marks. Most cap girdles are to help 2 bolt mains. Our 3 webs are undercut, but simply using a full set of studs that take full advantage of the thread holes helps- but DONT tourqe the studs in- barely snug. And by the higher clamping force that helps eliminate more cap walk. Obviously the stud threads being deeper into the main webs helps.
Our big concern is obviously web crack, caused by vibration and bearing tolerance issues as well as simple downforce and crankshaft deflection. Anything, even the simple angleiron 3 hole helps eas deflection, but the more points and stiffer the material of securing the better. Yes having more exact fit stud holes helps here too.
Balancing rotating assembly is way important. More important than best balancer vs AC Delc vs doorman junk. Remember a balancer is for HARMONIC vibration not unequal weight. And primarily is for tortional load not linear.
Doing the girdle like you are as cap included is better, no question. Best is 1 piece billet, but $$$$. So bolt together sections is a really nice affordable option. WAY better than this other one, the most simple and cheapest unit. But by time your girdle is built, then through resellers markup- it would be hard to do. And materials used in girdles- apply exactly the same as crankshaft. Cast iron, nodular, cast steel, thicker the better, etc.
This 3 hole or the similar 5 hole girdle is cheap enough anybody can put it on and won’t have the strength to misalign the 3 mains if installed right. Only thing I dont like is them not telling people to file cap top heights equal for best results.
Btw, on the economy side for the diy guys wanting to make their own, 3/4” thick material, longer studs, and doing the 2 nut pinch metod will keep your crank bore exactly where it is now. Will that mean oil pan mod? Idk.
Yes and no...buying many cap mounted gidles, even ones that tie to the pan face like a CRE (iirc) I did on a bbc 2 years ago, requires a little rod clearancing, shimming, and hole clearancing. Just like bearings, rings, etc have tolerances that have a range of specifications, gidles do to. This 3 hole simple one is really light and can deflect, but would still help a little. Enough to pay for itself? IDK.
Just how they dont make the block perfect enough to use 1 size bearing, the holes in the blocks for the main caps are not always perfect. Then the height of the caps are not the same. Anyone that has main caps off an engine, place all 5 against each other on a flat surface and feel the top ledges where the bolt heads touch in relation to Each other. It might only be 2 thou off, But in adding a girdle that means something has play or tension. This is why trueing the deck and caps is done st added expense but for better results. then the tension is all applies equally to the caps. This can ever so slightly change the crank bore, and why you fit girdles before align boring the mains.
Building one off like you of I are going towards we will correct that in the build. But playing the mass production game means tolerances. Finding the balance of one size fits all and a PERFECT fit is preference.
Girdles help in a few ways. Cap walk is one, but our caps fit tight and being 4 bolt it isn’t way bad. Look for polished area outside the bolt head diameter as witnesses marks. Most cap girdles are to help 2 bolt mains. Our 3 webs are undercut, but simply using a full set of studs that take full advantage of the thread holes helps- but DONT tourqe the studs in- barely snug. And by the higher clamping force that helps eliminate more cap walk. Obviously the stud threads being deeper into the main webs helps.
Our big concern is obviously web crack, caused by vibration and bearing tolerance issues as well as simple downforce and crankshaft deflection. Anything, even the simple angleiron 3 hole helps eas deflection, but the more points and stiffer the material of securing the better. Yes having more exact fit stud holes helps here too.
Balancing rotating assembly is way important. More important than best balancer vs AC Delc vs doorman junk. Remember a balancer is for HARMONIC vibration not unequal weight. And primarily is for tortional load not linear.
Doing the girdle like you are as cap included is better, no question. Best is 1 piece billet, but $$$$. So bolt together sections is a really nice affordable option. WAY better than this other one, the most simple and cheapest unit. But by time your girdle is built, then through resellers markup- it would be hard to do. And materials used in girdles- apply exactly the same as crankshaft. Cast iron, nodular, cast steel, thicker the better, etc.
This 3 hole or the similar 5 hole girdle is cheap enough anybody can put it on and won’t have the strength to misalign the 3 mains if installed right. Only thing I dont like is them not telling people to file cap top heights equal for best results.
Btw, on the economy side for the diy guys wanting to make their own, 3/4” thick material, longer studs, and doing the 2 nut pinch metod will keep your crank bore exactly where it is now. Will that mean oil pan mod? Idk.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Your right Will on the mass production side of things. If I was going to do an angle iron girdle it would be a 5 pin and like the Turbonator brothers it would be hand fit/filed so as to not add stresses. I would still have it align honed just to make sure everything was good, block might have had a touch of core shift after it was machined