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Hard to start - Extending Glow Plug time

Up to 95 originally had non self regulating glow plugs in them. You could glow them for 8 seconds, but going 10, and they would explode(I did this with one testing it). 96+ had self regulating plugs meaning they could stay on for however long and not burn up. So obd1 does not have the glow time of obd2's, and this has bit more than 1 person putting 60g's i to an obd1 truck. That said, at -40 it should command right at 10 seconds of glow time iirc from the tune files I used to have. This still sounds injector or compression related to me with the white smoke at such warm temps.
 
Good morning guys, I did the screwdriver across the controller thing this morning for about 10 seconds and then the key on for the 5 seconds and it fired right up first try! a little white smoke but not much.

@THEFERMANATOR I do have the option to do a memory dump in GMTDscan if someone has the ability to read through that file!

I have had the thought of ordering a PCM from the junk yard just to get the prom chip. I can find them on the car-part website for around $50 - $75 if I could find someone that can edit the tune vs ordering a pre tuned chip, those things are expensive online!
 
unfortunately I don't have easy access to a diesel compression tester unless someone knows of a fitting of the same thread as the glows I could rig up on a gauge to use type thing.

but I have a gut feeling that given you guys have said here and in other threads that in the warmer temps these engines shouldn't need the glows to start, and given that this engine is tipping close to 300k on the clock, has a little blow by from the dipstick tube at warm idle. I'm placing my bet that it has low compression and is just warn out. I just don't want to believe it!

Over the first year since I bought it, it has seemed to feel like it has been losing power and I have basically done everything from the fuel system minus the IP to the turbo, and air intake trying to restore the power feel. this has no doubt improved with each thing that has been done.

our last trip to the coast on our return trip is when I really noticed the loss in power (about a 130 mile trip one way) what are some "mechanic in a can" snake oil if you will remedies I can use to try and prolong the inevitable while looking for and deciding if it's worth investing to replace the engine? I've looked at some youtube videos on using the Rislone engine restore on a diesel tractor that had some good results on a tractor that was so bad it wouldn't start unless ether was used. I'm not a fan of any "snake oil" but with my gut feeling that I am pouring money into a dieing engine, what are some things I can do to keep from having to park it.

with that said, this engine needing a longer glow cycle to start easier in 80 deg summer morning weather, it's possibly nearing it's life's end. in need of a rebuild or replacement engine.

I'll do some more research and attempt to come up with a compression tester to at least confirm this before any "snake oil" remedy is used.
 
So my last truck died at 306k had massive blowby, fan clutch not working right, and it still started and ran fine right up until the crank broke. My guess is the fuel system, either IP or injectors or both
 
Did You try some of the parts stores for a loaner diesel engine compression tester ?
Oriellys over here is real good about having quite a good selection of loaner tools.
The GP hole/threads I believe is the same as a 10mm sparking plug hole. At least thats what it is on my 2000 year unit. Got a sparking plug hole thread chaser to clean the carbon from the GP holes.
 
Oh yeah, even in 100 degree heat, the GP lamp on my truck comes on, I just wait until it goes out before twisting key to start position.
A couple times I have just hit the starter on hot temps and warmed up engine and it took a little extra crank time for it to fire up.
So I just wait for the GP cycle before cranking to help save on starter time.
 
Heyee. I just got some good news. One of the guys I work with that drives a 6.5 burb was on my shift today. I just happened to pop the question on a compression tester. He’s got one with the adapter for the 6.5. He’s gonna lend it to me over this weekend

this will tell me yea or nay if I’m fighting a loosing battle!

@ak diesel driver. In the IP, are there any on the truck testing I can do to rule it out?
 
Another thought just occurred to me. Can a PMD cause hard to start symptoms and run fine otherwise? I’m still running that Chinese PMD off amazon that came with my remote mount kit since my grey standayne PMD died on me

just trying to come up with a list of things to look at or check if the compression test pans out this weekend! Keeping my fingers crossed 🤞
 
Ok, glad you found a guy there. You CAN NOT use a regular compression tester for gas engine.

white smoke that smells like diesel is unburned diesel.
You have to have AMAZINGLY HORRIBLE blowby- like 1.5 quarts of oil every 3000 miles to have that be your issue. But it happens so it is worth checking.

remove all 8 plugs- do DRY compression test, writing down each number.

bench test all glow plugs while they are out a d don’t forget a dab of antiseize on the threads when they (or new ones) go back in.
5 seconds is mighty dang short time. In 100+ temperature of las vegas i think that is Short.
Yes programming time is easier for the day to day, but get Leroy’s oil solenoid and add a button and your done imo.

You still never answered the critical question:

HOW OLD ARE CURRENT INJECTORS?
 
I thought I did answer on the injectors. I replaced the drivers side a while back, maybe 15 to 20k ago. That was back when I had a random miss going on. After I replaced those 4 I found the noise filter thingy connected to the OP causing the problem. Recently I just replaced the turbo due to shaft play and contributing to some power loss. When I pulled the turbo I replaced those 4 injectors, valve cover and intake gaskets. Those don’t even have 3k on them yet.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I thought I did answer on the injectors. I replaced the drivers side a while back, maybe 15 to 20k ago. That was back when I had a random miss going on. After I replaced those 4 I found the noise filter thingy connected to the OP causing the problem. Recently I just replaced the turbo due to shaft play and contributing to some power loss. When I pulled the turbo I replaced those 4 injectors, valve cover and intake gaskets. Those don’t even have 3k on them yet.
Click to expand...
Ok- were they from a quality source? Ebay junk or almost anyone advertising “+40” means chinese junkyard material.
 
They were new stock ones from AAP. Borgwarner part number 57101. I had bought the set back when I did the drivers side, just took me a while to do the passenger side!
 
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