• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Hard hot start causes

Even with a bad engine the lower, or standard, pop injectors make a difference. High pop injectors are a bast*** to start cold (summer day to you) and require a touch more advance to stop white smoke. Again in context of a low compression engine that makes differences like that stand out.
 
The boat 6.5s I messed with that were 18:1 start easy when cold here- they turn over faster since not as hard on stater. Can’t wait to see what my TSP 18:1 with the powermaster will crank at- half idle speed? Haha

So you are cranking 146 now, and with the higher pops.hmm
Let us know how the powermaster does and the 2/0 or bigger feeding it I hope...?
 
Fit pretty good the only thing I had to modify was the front bracket. The stud seems to be in a slightly different position. I had to elongate the hole and even then it's slightly cocked
 
Wow. So it’s awesome the problem is gone, but insane it was over a starter.
Yeah, the stud placement is a tad off depending on the bracket. I had 2 brackets both stamped same part number and one needed the hole elongated about 1/8” and the other one worked. But both worked on ac Delco starter. o_O

Also powermaster did an update to the length of the large positive post, the first design needed to be filed a tad on some engines. Did yours?
296-136= 160rpm difference...Did I do the math right- a 217% increase?
 
Didn't have to do anything to the positive post. I'd read about people having to shield the heavy wire coming from the battery but it was fine. Kinda pointed down and towards the passenger tire
 
I cant remember actual checked rpm differences, more used to the sound. I’m sure at some point I read it on the scanner, ut never tried associating x sound to y speed. Just “that sounds a bit too slow”.

Can anyone else with a scanner cokpare theirs cold to hot and show what their difference is? 1/3 sounds like alot.

I usually unplug the fso not pmd, but can’t imagine that would give a difference in reading or actual speed.

A hot speed difference of one and a half times as fast seems more like what I felt out of my powermaster before- not over twice the speed. But we don’t really know the condition of your old starter here. Could be working but maybe barely or was gonna die at the end of February or if it is still well within spec.
 
Considering that stock minimum is 180 I must have never had a good starter on either my 96 or my 94 or this 99. Cause this starter sounds way faster than any of those
 
You should hear the difference on the old direct drive starters- haha

Prestolite is a magic term more than name for showing it actually started the engine.
 
You may try synthetic oil and see if it spins faster. Cold is 50-60 degrees if I recall. Dyno oil 15w/40.

I used an optical tach to measure mine long time ago. Never figured hot mattered so much... From that thread: (page 2 link)

Readings were taken 3 times each.

I used an optical tach hand tool on the crank to test the following Vs. the standard gear starter on my 93 6.5:

Cold engine 120 RPM factory starter. (Steady state RPM 5 rotations or more.)
Cold 130-180 RPM Powermaster. (180 was the final steady number. 130 was the lowest reading I could get during the first 2 rotations.)

Hot engine 180 RPM factory.
Powermaster hot: Untested as of this post
 
Back
Top