had enough...

[Acesneights1]

Make sure the filter separates water. Most 2 stroke detriots used either those filters or the really old ones used sock filters. Those sucked to change. Best filtration would either be a Racor or a Fass but of course probably cost more than you paid for the whole truck.... Other than that use the stock square one. It works fine. Just a PIA to prime if you don't have an electric LP which you do.

 

[iamdave0887]

I put one of those little inline fuel pressure gauges on today in between the DD filter and the box filter, as it's for 3/8" line, that i picked up at work for $11. It confirmed what i figured. After i shut the engine/LP down the pressure drops fairly quickly, but not instantly. Guess my leak isn't totally sealed. Damn...

On the bright side the tailgate i picked up is in much better shape than the one on my truck. No rot holes but there is some surface rust. I'll be cleaning it up and rust proofing the entire thing inside and outside before i install it. The tailgate cables are even intact. Only problem is the window's busted, i can hear the glass rattling around inside. I'll just have to swap my window over after winter.

Also got a set of no rot inner fenders, but they've been cut by the front bolt mounts it looks like. nothing some steel can't fix.

 

[just a number]

when you swap the the window double check the tracks. they're known to rot

 

[iamdave0887]

when you swap the the window double check the tracks. they're known to rot

you mean the bottom channel attached to the window? If so the factory one in my blazer was in roughly 4 jagged pieces. The tracks the window ride in in my current gate seem to be fine.

 

[just a number]

that one, the section where it attaches to the regulator, and the side channels. the one on my old burb had one good side rail and half of the bottom left. needless to say I didn't put the window down to often.

 

[Acesneights1]

It's normal to lose fuel pressure after shutdown. It won't hold it. The issue with the factory Mech ones is the actually drainback into the tank and then it takes time for it to pull fuel again as it doesnt pump until the engine is cranking. If you have an electric LP your fine.

 

[iamdave0887]

It's normal to lose fuel pressure after shutdown. It won't hold it. The issue with the factory Mech ones is the actually drainback into the tank and then it takes time for it to pull fuel again as it doesnt pump until the engine is cranking. If you have an electric LP your fine.

The thing that bugs me is that it's still leaking from the filter housing. The top of the water drain hose is shiny with diesel and i wiped it off before i re-installed the filter manager. I really dislike the Model 80 box style filter.

Have to tear into it again after work today.

On the bright side i got my Autometer tach installed. Seems to be pretty accurate but it's a tad jumpy at certain spots. Maybe repositioning the inductive pickup will work.

 

[Acesneights1]

Probably need a new housing. I never had any trouble with any of mine. Should be easy to find a used one.

 

[just a number]

did you check the O-ring on the water drain? if you unscrew it all the way you find a small O-ring on it.

 

[iamdave0887]

did you check the O-ring on the water drain? if you unscrew it all the way you find a small O-ring on it.

There's an o-ring in there? I haven't looked that closely at it. I will be pulling the filter housing off the truck again tomorrow to re-seal my vac switch repair. I'm curious if my repair failed, because it was working great at first. It held ~8 psi fuel pressure w/ the engine off and held it for hours at a time. Then it went back to it's same old crap.

I'll be starting there, but i will check that o-ring out.

 

[just a number]

there should be one. check to make sure it's not leaking between the filter and the manager.

 

[6.2 turbo]

If it was mine I would toss the factory filter,I run a single spin on filter,there is also a very fine screen inside the injector pump inlet .

 

[iamdave0887]

I love junkyards!

Found 5 K-5 blazers in the yard today. Got a few K-5 Blazer badges, a "silverado" rear quarter badge so i now have 2. A replacement grille with the same exact trim(color and all) on it save for one crack right above the bowtie. Another SM465 shift knob, tailgate wiring, etc. This truck's finally starting to come together.

Also found a 1984 6.2 Diesel GMC vandura 2500 in the yard. Rotted out was an understatement. I'm guessing a loaded Diesel vandura is quite rare. I was able to pull the "Diesel 6.2 Litre" badges off of it. Too bad i couldn't get to anything else.

The truck looks so much better with a one piece grille on it. I'm amazed at the difference.

 

[Acesneights1]

Oh yes they are rare. See my photo Album. What a jackass I was for selling it. I'll NEVER find another one.

 

[iamdave0887]

son of a b**ch! issed:

Lifter totally collapsed 4 if not 5 times in a period of 2 - 2.5 hours to the point where one cylinder stopped firing today. Then it would go away as fast as it showed up. Totally out of nowhere too. It's the same problem i had that originally caused my lifter tick. It'll start as a louder ticking but the same tone, not a thud of a rod. Then i'll go to step on the go pedal but the engine's got absolutely no power what-so-ever and feels like it has a miss. It'll do this for maybe 30 seconds and then it'll have power again and the louder ticking will fade back to my normal lifter tick. Oil pressure's fine during this entire ordeal 25-30 psi at idle, up to temp with 5w-40. The first time it happened i got pissed off and matted the accelerator and took it up to ~2,800 - 3,000 rpm slammed into 2nd and then drove "normally".

What in the friggin hell!?!

The truck has had Rotella T 5w-40 oil/wix 51061 filter since about nov/dec '09 and when i changed the cooler lines a few weeks ago to top off the oil i added 1 quart of the Lucas "Pure Synthetic" oil stabilizer. Not even 2,000 miles on the oil, but about 4 months. Sticker says 2,500 miles/3 months. Guess i ran over by a month or so time wise.

the 5w-40 was blacker than sin though. Guess these engines really do dump a boat load of soot into the oil.

I'm now running Rotella T SAE 30 and a Mobil 1 oil filter like the sticker calls for for 32*F and up. Lifter tick's still present, no surprise there.

What a day. :mad2::mad2:

 

[Acesneights1]

refresh my memory did you change the lifter when you had it apart ?

 

[iamdave0887]

refresh my memory did you change the lifter when you had it apart ?

no i didn't get to. The lifter i picked up was the wrong damn one. F***in Autozone in Bridgeport . It had no box and no tag on it since they came in packs of 8. I didn't need 8 i needed one. When i pulled the lifter out and saw that the two were different then i was SOL since the stores were closed and i needed the truck the next day. What a friend who was there that night ended up doing was pulling the lifter apart and inspecting it. It was clean inside save for the black oil in it and one metal shaving that was too big to fit through the oiling hole, so it was internal to the lifter(either when it was made or a piece that shaved of when the lifter first collapsed). When we inspected the lifter we found it to be pretty much perfect, even the roller was perfect with no binding at all. Obviously we removed that little shaving and my buddy put the lifter back together, soaked it in 15w-40 to get as much air out as we could and we put it all back together.

I don't understand why it went haywire today after it's been months with nothing but the lifter ticking at times and other times the lifter tick wasn't even present.