had enough...

[iamdave0887]

ok i'm fed up.

Driving along the other day i started getting a ticking noise, unlike the lifter tick i've had for a while now. This sound is only when moving under power, or hte engine is under a load(hold the brakes and release the clutch slowly in 1st and it's very audible). At first i figure, exhaust leak at one of the donut gaskets perhaps. Then it gets louder and deeper sounding. Oil pressure never dropped below 35-40 psi at idle. I don't think it's an engine knock as it's only under engine load of any kind(brake torque, driving). Free rev i can't hear it and idle i can't hear it.

Now i'm like "great now what's blown up?"

I've yet to answer that question.

The other day(before this started) i was under the truck to change out the leaky oil cooler lines and i had to remove the slave cylinder to get to one of the lines at the block fitting. Other than that nothing else has been touched under the truck.

Checked the SM465's gear oil today, and it's a hair over full as the oil is a tad frothy. Seems i put in a little too much when i put the trans in. have to drain some out tomorrow.

I noticed today that when i was under the truck i saw what looked like silicone at the flange where the exhaust pipe meets the heat riser valve on the driver's side. I peeled some off as it seemed to be hanging there doing nothing. Sure enough it's silicone of some kind. This pipe and the heat riser are coated in engine oil due to a leaky valve cover(didn't use enough silicone on it i guess) that i have to seal up.

Could the oil have eaten through some high temp silicone gasket someone made? Is there even a gasket there?

Why do i always get the weird $#$#% problems??

What in the world could this noise be? Can a clutch knock when the trans is put in gear and the pedal released? Could the flywheel bolts be loose? That would cause a racket at all times no?

I'm stumped and very fed up. This truck was supposed to be my winter transportation, as it sits in my driveway while it's snowing and i'm forced to drive something else.

On the bright side i've got a few new books to read. Detroit Diesel Series 53 Service and information books from 1969 and 1970 and a "Unit Rebuilding" shop manual for the H-NH Series Cummins. I love Estate sales.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Just drive it till it breaks then you know what to fix.

 

[iamdave0887]

Just drive it till it breaks then you know what to fix.

I've really been debating this and i think it's the route i'm going to follow after i take another look at the exhaust system. If i find no leaks, it's drive it til it dies.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I've had several issues over the years that I couldn't find. Just kept driving them until it broke enough to find them.

 

[just a number]

can you 'feel' the tick in the clutch pedal? that's what mine does. I think it the throwout sitting up against the pressure plate. I gotta find a spring to hold the adjuster in place.

 

[iamdave0887]

can you 'feel' the tick in the clutch pedal? that's what mine does. I think it the throwout sitting up against the pressure plate. I gotta find a spring to hold the adjuster in place.

It's not in the clutch at all. I've got the hydraulic setup. Yours is linkage right?

I think i found out what it is, but i've got to get a better look at it on a day when it's not snowing and soggy outside.

 

[just a number]

no hints

 

[chevyCowboy]

I've really been debating this and i think it's the route i'm going to follow after i take another look at the exhaust system. If i find no leaks, it's drive it til it dies.

i did this with my truck i had an intermeitent knock that was very hard to hear and would come and go. then one day a couple weeks later i was waiting in the cold on the side of the road for a tow truck. and the motor had destroyed its self riped the top off of the #4 piston:mad2:

 

[ak diesel driver]

short of a tear down you would have never found that

 

[Acesneights1]

Put that Detriot Manual on ebay, you'll fetch some seriuos money for it, They are out of print. I'd look at it but you'll have to drive to Stafford.

 

[Acesneights1]

http://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/1618077357.html

 

[iamdave0887]

Put that Detriot Manual on ebay, you'll fetch some seriuos money for it, They are out of print. I'd look at it but you'll have to drive to Stafford.

I've got two. one from 1969 and one from 1970. The 69 one is a bit worn out but the 70 one is in pretty good condition.

Also have a N-HN Cummins rebuild manual.

Not going to make the GTG sunday Kenny?

 

[Acesneights1]

Probably not. Usually spend Sundays trying to make repairs on my trucks.

 

[iamdave0887]

Probably not. Usually spend Sundays trying to make repairs on my trucks.

Damn. I was going to drag the blazer down for the GTG.

I've got a line on a black tailgate and a black sliding window top today. Just have to wait to hear back from the guy.

 

[Acesneights1]

Did you see the CL link I posted ? a 6.2 for a 100$

 

[iamdave0887]

Did you see the CL link I posted ? a 6.2 for a 100$

I did. Damn what a deal. If only i had $100. I spent my "spare" money today working on other projects. Then i checked that link and i'm still kicking myself. :mad2:

That and my e-brake failed again. Something's not right in the back end. First time the e-clip that held the parking brake arm failed. New e-clip and everything put back together and i got a month or so out of it and it's doing the same thing again. Pedal right to the floor with no resistance. Wonder why it let go this time? Pain in the ass...:mad2:

 

[Acesneights1]

Somewhere I had NIB cables for a Blazer. I'll look around in the shed tommorow.

 

[iamdave0887]

Repaired the e-brake cable.

Same issue as last time. Driver's side e-clip failed. While i had it all apart is installed a brand new spring on the flat bar that runs directly under the wheel cylinder from the forward shoe to the e-brake arm. Is that e-brake arm that the cable is attached to supposed to sort of "float" in place. It doesn't seem to be attached to anything save for the e-clip which holds it in position. Maybe that's my problem?

Also removed that damn restriction switch today. Looked like it was leaking but i can't be 100% sure. Tapped the 3/16" hole behind the sensor with a 1/4-20 tap and put some Indian head sealant on a little bolt and threaded it in place. Also installed my "fuel filter from a 53 series detroit today. It's the secondary(10 micron i believe), yet it's the primary filter in my setup then it goes to the factory box filter. Might help extend filter life for the factory filter. Regardless i'll see how it starts tomorrow. Then i'll know if i fixed that air leak or not.

- Dave

 

[Acesneights1]

A secondary DD filter doesn't filter much. You need both to be effective and they wern't that good even then. I had plenty of DD freeze ups.

 

[iamdave0887]

A secondary DD filter doesn't filter much. You need both to be effective and they wern't that good even then. I had plenty of DD freeze ups.

*shrugs*

It should help a tad bit i'd think. Those box style filter's can't filter very well can they?

Maybe i'll see if i can hunt down a better filter for that filter base. Right now it's a Wix filter that i bought from a local auto parts place. The filter number was just under 6v53 since i had no idea what that filter base was off of, other than a detroit. That filter number was under lots of other detroits as well, but 6v53 was the first one i clicked on.

Edit: interesting. Seems that there are 2 filters that will fit on that base. The Wix 33120 which is a 10 micron and the Wix 33815 which is a 2 micron. Maybe i'll switch to the 2 micron. That should filter much better right?