• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Good news then BAD news!!! Help!

countryboy69

countryboy69

Member
Messages
144
Reaction score
4
Location
Marengo,IN
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgIBgon4CU4&feature=plcp


Well I haven't been on here for a while. Been so busy I haven't had time for anything! I do apologize.

I got the dually back together finally with the 6.2 and an NV4500. All the mods I could throw at it along with cut pre cups and ported heads, intake, and manifolds and turbo housing. Luc clutch. Built my own driveshaft(first one!). Have basically rebuilt the whole truck.

Got her fired up and running and wow! She sounded sweet! For a whole 2 days........:(

Didn't want to push it for a little while so I just made a few short drives from the race shop to the house....run to the parts store...nothing far and was easy on it.

On day 2 my son and I headed to a ball game not 3 miles away. It felt very sluggish and I looked down to see the oil pressure dropping. I turned around and as it idled pressure was at 0. with a little rpm it would hold 15 to 20. So we limped it back the mile we was out.

Here is where it gets weird. It was definitely not a gauge problem. Pulled it out and checked pick up for coming loose or clogged. Nothing. Bearings was still good except for a few small scares on 2 cyls. I had a new set of Kings so I swapped them anyway, the scared ones was still good and was no reason to worry.
I have pulled the pump apart and found no issue. Shaft from cam was fine. pick up tube clean as well and clearance was perfect. I am an engine builder and build 900hp alky race motors that do NOT come apart! I can't find a single reason for the loss of pressure. I am lost! I blue printed the pump and checked the flatness of mounting on cap and pump. I have a new pump ready to throw in it but I am afraid it will not help. ANy of y'all seen this before on a 6.2? Im running the Hummer pan and pick up. Help! lol signed Confused in Indiana!
 
Stuck open pressure relief valve in oil pump?

Wonder if you pushed out a galley plug in front by the cam...?
 
Could,ve just been a funky OPS/gauge.
I had something similar with my 89 6.2 ... I Tee-ed in a manual gauge and that one read good pressure.
 
With the small damage to the 2 bearings and the noise as we made it back it was not the ops/gauge. Really wish it was!

I did pull the pump apart and checked the relief valve. Wasn't that either. But I will flat yank the front cover off and check for gallery plugs! In the back would have leaked but I didn't think about the front! Thank ya!
 
One thing to note. If you have a 506 block that has piston squirters you must have the High volume oil pump, which has taller gears in it and spacer for the housing that allows the use of said taller gears.

If you run a non-HV oil pump on a squirter engine block, you will end up with almost no oil pressure when warmed up at idle. The non-HV pump just cannot keep up with the entire engine plus the squirters.

If you have an HV pump in there already, then i'm stumped. Can't think of anything else that hasn't already been said.
 
Well its a 6.2 Humvee block. No squirters. Just got off work and I am gonna check those galley plugs.
So if I order an oil pump for a 99couple or so will it be the high volume? Sounds like something I want anyway. I asked my parts place if they carried a high volume pump.
 
Good luck. Hope you find your answer, one way or another, after you pull the front cover off.
 
ok I found it.....and its bad. Little back story on this motor. I bought this truck and they kept claiming it was a motor out of a Humvee. My thoughts was "yea right".

Turns out it was true. It never would have ran for them but thats all history. Ran very good for a year and I had been doing stuff I know and stuff I learned from y'all (Thanks!).

I was dealing around with a diesel buddy who had said he had a strange turbo he got off his friend's pulling truck 6.5. My turbo was done and had spread oil everywhere.

Got the turbo for $30!!! Still have no clue what this thing is and all numbers are ground off! An employee offered to change it for $20 after hours and I got lazy and didnt want to wear all that oil. I stuck close and kept an eye on him. Not close enough. He dropped a nut down the manifold and didnt tell me. It floated around until one day I shut it off running fine. When I started it next day it didnt want to crank over. When it did oh what a noise.

I put new pistons in with new rings on a fresh ball hone. I could still see the previous cross hatching. Put a good used rod where the nut had hit the piston. And did all the good stuff on the top end and so on. The crank looked fine but it obviously wasn't. Its bent. Bad. Wiped 2,3,and 4 mains.
 
Took 2 weeks for that nut to catch the valve open on shut down to fall in. And that turbo......wow!

My new question is since this is a later model 6.2 what are my crank options? New 6.2? Will a 6.5 fit? Aftermarket?

Will be building a bottom end stud girdle.
 
countryboy69 said:
My new question is since this is a later model 6.2 what are my crank options? New 6.2? Will a 6.5 fit? Aftermarket?
Click to expand...

Scat cranks offers a better grade iron crank. This one is only offered for one piece rear main seal.

Only difference on GM cranks is one piece RMS and two piece RMS.
 
I thought so on the difference but wanted to make sure. I have a good 6.5 crank but I will price my cost at Scat tomorrow! And order more King Bearings. I use Scat a lot in race engines and get a good discount from them.
 
My Two Cents.

Your call on using the Kings. I understand they are fine for gassers but not so much for Diesels.

I'm not a professional motor builder but, I do know from sad experience that the one King bearing used on the of compression side of one the mains (instead of all Clevites like the rest of them) resulted in a slight problem in less than 25,000 miles.
Teds busted crank.jpg

Apparently, Jamie Avant at Diesel Depot, 'in all the excitement [of the build], lost count' and couldn't remember or just flat $%^&* ed up. Regardless, the motor was toast!
 
Now I have an engine building buddy who just loves using used bearings in race motors! Doesn't work out well for him tho! LOL.

Using one mixed in with a different brand........would terrify me! Not saying thats what caused it but not gonna say it wasn't either!

Hey guys if the Kings aren't good for 6.x's let me know please! Nothing else will ever go in my race motors!

Built a new UMP Mod motor this spring. A little 377 Alky motor making 795 HP. For 4 races running @8200 rpm(peak not coming off) as I came off the turns I would lose oil pressure! It would come back up to 80 psi as I started picking up the throttle. 75% of a lap with no oil!!! Chased this issue for weeks changing pick ups and pans and pumps. Found a cracked block at an oil galley. Bought the block machine shop fresh and trusted the.....ya know...to be ready to build. 4 races of this.....those Kings still look like brand new!

So before I order the new ones y'all let me know!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top