Idk, I just installed my cruse control and I'm really liking it lol. I would loose that if I swapped to the db2. I honestly would have to find a parts truck with all the goodies before I consider swpooing. I do like the idea of running alternative fuels and it gets complicated when it's done properly. It's always best to start alternative fuel with engine at operating temperature and clear the fuel lines of the alternative fuel before setting the engine down. Best way to do this is running a dual fuel setup. 2 tanks, 1 diesel and the other of what ever. The trick is not to contaminate your diesel tank lol. Alternative fuel is just hard on the fuel system, gummy deposits and cokes up injectors. I would really have to crunch the numbers to be 100% sold. Lots of upfront cost. I'm not apposed to the idea. I've put some questionable fluids in my tank lol I'm surprised it didn't foul out the optic sensor lol but hey, nothing wrong with going a little farther for less lol
Db2 have cruise control also. It’s a little black box with a cable coming off it that attaches to the throttle linkage and 4 electrical wires- see pic (my rig is disassemble currently for rebuild).
As to the alternative fuels- yes the way you described is for bio fuels as needed for a ds4 ip.
And you could choose to run a db2 that way also. However most of us db2 guys that diy fuel use “black diesel”. One member here had a 6.2 powered Rover and he simply poured in used engine oil into his fuel tank - normally this is done 80% diesel 20% oil and thats it. Not my recommendation- I have done it. You get a lot of carbon on the injectors and valves- which wmi eliminates, but no wmi means build up.
Here is black diesel at its best imo:
Collect waste oil from local mechanic shops pumping it with a transfer pump through basic filters into a barrel in your truck bed never pulling off the bottom of tank but about 85% down to leave any water that may be there.
Go home and pump through the filters again into another barrel that has heater band on it of no forklift to unload. Heated up you run it through a centrifuge (pabiodiesel.com) into “first clean barrel” repeat process into “secondary clean barrel”, but only fill 50% (25 gallons) and put the other half into another “secondary clean barrel”
Add in 20% gasoline (5 gallons) and mix well. - usually people pour in the gas before the cleaned oil goes in for the mixing. Definitely use non ethonal gas if you can get it.
Now you simply pull out 2 samples each 1/8 cup in sealed container and put in the freezer. Next day test it- you are looking for gelling or the pre gelling point where it looks cloudy (cloud point).
The other sample you use for finding flash point.
Literally thermometer in it for temp, and strike a wooden match slowly it in the fuel. You are tryin to get a tiny puff of flame or actual ignition of the fuel. You repeatedly close the container, shake it up, warm it up a couple degrees and retest.
The temperature at which the fuel flashes a flame is known as the flash point.
Flash point
#2 diesel is 126f.
#1 diesel is 100f. (aka winter blend)
For #2 diesel (what you should target)
Gelling is supposed to begin no warmer than -10f. Any warmer than that you should suspect water in it becoming ice. This is true for diy or bought fuel. Since gasoline doesn’t gel, adding a higher percentage of gasoline raises gel point.
But more gasoline lowers the flash point. Too low of flash point means pre ignition in the engine. So you learn to measure and determine the ratio of gasoline into the oil for each batch.
What some people do so they don’t spend a million hours measuring and adjusting then remeasuring is get a bunch of barrels. Once you have the ratio for that mix of oil you just picked up for free, sometimes get paid to haul it off…
You need to mix all that oil together because some of it might be 10 wt and some might be 90 wt gear oil. So the percentage of gasoline that mixes in can need slight adjustments. But keep in mind this is the very picky way to do it, and usually guy’s doing this- we also use the Falex wear tester or similar to compare wear properties and do a certain amount of preferential oils like ATF to ensure it is good.
Which leads to the thinking of things like- why not make getting used atf from transmission shops a priority- which is excellent along with getting the mineral oil from high power electrical transformer rebuilding companies- there are many excellent sources besides just Joe’s quicky lube. You can have fuel that is better lubrication than the additives people buy.
Then use the centrifuge to periodically clean your own engine oil, transmission fluid, etc and extend their lifespan- especially helpful with really high quality (aka expensive) fluids.
Then when it’s done- it’s now your fuel too.
Sounds nice but remember you can NOT run black diesel in a ds4, nor most common rails.
opcorn:
