- Staff
- #21
Beru & NGK used to be the 2 top glow plug manufacturers. 9g, 11g, & pretty sure 60g's used to all be made by Beru. DieselRX us Wellman or WAP, same as SS's.
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Glow plug discussion.
- Thread starter ak diesel driver
- Start date
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Now what would be interesting to know is who and where they're made. Pretty sure a fair amount of ac Delco stuff is made in China now.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yes. And this is where many of their problems occur. When it is done in scale that the manufacturers are getting back charged through warranty, problems gets solved quickly. But when you’re making parts for an out of production vehicle- it takes many years if ever corrected. Sometimes could be the company has intensions for top quality, other times it is handled like the Ivey memo.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
80026 60G AC DELCO CHEVY GM 6.2L 6.5L DIESEL GLOW PLUG 0250202253 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 80026 60G AC DELCO CHEVY GM 6.2L 6.5L DIESEL GLOW PLUG 0250202253 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
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GM 6.5L Diesel Glow Plug DRX-00050 Set of 8 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for GM 6.5L Diesel Glow Plug DRX-00050 Set of 8 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Thought it was interesting they used the wellman number and then said bosch and then I've never heard of 80026 before either.
JMJNet
Recruit
That is confusing.
Are they Bosch or DieselRX GPs? Great question.
IMO, at this point if I need to change GPs, I will get ACDelco 60G.
Are they Bosch or DieselRX GPs? Great question.
IMO, at this point if I need to change GPs, I will get ACDelco 60G.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I wrote a book response on another gp thread & Felt the need to copy it here:
To know the correct resistance of a heating element you need to onow the wattage. Then divide the square of the voltage by the wattage.
So 12x12 divided by that particular brand wattage.
Old wellman -now dieselrx- are higher wattage than even the old ac Delco 9g was. Thats why they got hotter, but they also drew way more amps, which broke off more often and burned out relay/ controllers faster because of it.
Then also, (and this part is speculative) the self regulated plugs have a constant draw when cold as when hot. I learned the warm engine changed the resistance of the other plugs. When I switched to self regulated I tested and learned they are a constant draw unit.
Back before working on rigs as a job, I was an electrician and am back in that line of work. In a training class an instructor used 3 water heater elements as part of teaching about resistance and how resistance affects other factors. Contamination or the element itself wearing away changes the resistance and therefore its efficiency (performance).
The more contamination there is = more resistance.
The more worn off the element is = less resistance.
But you can have 10% wear and 10% contamination bringing the resistance to a perfect reading while efficiency is 30% lower than new. Remember the square of the resistance so that amount plus the loss of element material function.
When he taught it I never messed with water heater elements, but brought up the 6.2’glowmplugs and glowplugs. I had a habit of saving my old parts just in case needed. I also used to label which cylinders on glow and spark plugs- something picked up at the dragstrip. He had me bring in parts and we tested all my old and even tested plugs in my engine, then pumled the ones from my engine as he explained meggers and fine resistance into the block farther from the ground cable. I actually learned I had one bad injector and another going bad because of the recorded history how two cylinders were wiping out glowplugs at a faster rate than the other 6.
So when I later worked in the fleet, I argued the point with bosses and thats what started the testing of plugs out of the engine. Thats when we found that good plugs can actually test bad, and bad plugs can actually test good when using the resistance as diagnostics. Btw, using amp will do the same thing, except make false readings worse because of bad grounding at plug, cable, etc. it is good to help learn of grounding issue- but doesn’t prove bad plug. Same reason when you amp test a starter, if it fails you the remove and bench test the starter and redo the amp test and if you variable is more than 1% you are to remove and clean grounds, and test battery cables with a megger. Then there is this fun factor to add in. When we were testing them in the shop one guy randomly grabbed 2 as comparisons right from the box and had a reading one at minimum ohm spec and the next at maximum- it was a hilarious example of mass production at it’s worst. So he checked all 32 new ones we had in the parts room. Thats when we actually bench tested them.
As pointed out by WarWagon, back in the day a cheap but accurate non contact thermal gun was not available. Now they are everywhere- harbor fraud has accurate ones for like a nickle! Why did GM say to use ohms? Because something other than replace with known good was desired.
So in the fleet what did we learn was the best method? When a hard start is noted, waste no time testing something that will give a subjective answer. Quick voltage check if one is getting power shows power good to plug. Then Grab 8 new plugs and swap them in and eliminate down time. Then you can put 4 in a vice easily at same time with a singe jumper lead with a battery jumper box (ground to vice, positive to lead) then the next 4. About 2-3 minute test and you knew which to reuse and what hit the trashcan. Use needle nose to remove connection and let the 4 fall or wear welding glove because they are hot a minute after testing. If you don’t have a vice at home, test one at a time.
Remember the contamination issue? Own a stainless steel wire brush and SAFETY GLASSES? Get it hot, disconnect power and a quick swipe on two sides. Rehook up power and use your temp gun again- ya might be surprised. We learned dont do it while they are energized and full hot because they look like a 4th of July sparkler sometimes depending whats on it, and yall know I am not safety sally over the top- so when I say safety glasses- believe it.
Now, back to the formula of testing plugs-note I didn’t mention what wattage for the formula. Why? Because they are tremendously all over the place. Like saying a light bulb in your house. Old school 60watt, or brighter porch light 100? “3 way” floor lamp bulb or is it fluorescent with newrly no amps and insane high wattage. Different brand glow plugsfor the 6.2/6.5 engine can literally have way more than double the wattage. The factory ac Delco 9g was discontinued so long ago that they reused the partnumber into the duramax. Anyone here think the AC Delco 60G self regulated unit is the same wattage or resistance as the old 9G? Haha. Yet look into the measurements for testing spec. They didn’t bother changing it. Why? Outdated engine that is no longer under warranty so they dont give a rip. On things that did change like fuel composition and had huge effects of wear of the injection system they didn’t make any changes for the consumer- even to the point of the lawsuits over the cp3! What makes anyone think they will spend money to update and outdated spec on an outdated engine not using updated tools- they don’t care. Like how humidity in the tire affects wear by different tire pressure- one question is applied: Do enough fail under warranty that we loose too much money? If the answer is no, let it go.
I have tried to dispell this myth as much as possible. Due the bench testing yourself, just be sure to go through enough sample to be fair- say 50 plugs. I would imagine there is enough folks here that if 10 people tried 50 used plugs, 1 person could say honestly that they think I am wrong because their testing matched simple ohms test by results. I also bet 7 would be able to confirm my test results as accurate without any doubt. It might have been unfair, but after the 3rdguy challenged me on the job, i kept a set of 8 plugs in my parts box at work as demo. I gave them to a guy when I quit wrenching pro, so he could show other doubters on the job and a chance to make back the $20 he lost to me on the promise he would only take the money once to break even.
Please put glow plug ohm test to bed along with rear head cooling loop kits for the sake of 6.5 love (or hate, depending on the day).
To know the correct resistance of a heating element you need to onow the wattage. Then divide the square of the voltage by the wattage.
So 12x12 divided by that particular brand wattage.
Old wellman -now dieselrx- are higher wattage than even the old ac Delco 9g was. Thats why they got hotter, but they also drew way more amps, which broke off more often and burned out relay/ controllers faster because of it.
Then also, (and this part is speculative) the self regulated plugs have a constant draw when cold as when hot. I learned the warm engine changed the resistance of the other plugs. When I switched to self regulated I tested and learned they are a constant draw unit.
Back before working on rigs as a job, I was an electrician and am back in that line of work. In a training class an instructor used 3 water heater elements as part of teaching about resistance and how resistance affects other factors. Contamination or the element itself wearing away changes the resistance and therefore its efficiency (performance).
The more contamination there is = more resistance.
The more worn off the element is = less resistance.
But you can have 10% wear and 10% contamination bringing the resistance to a perfect reading while efficiency is 30% lower than new. Remember the square of the resistance so that amount plus the loss of element material function.
When he taught it I never messed with water heater elements, but brought up the 6.2’glowmplugs and glowplugs. I had a habit of saving my old parts just in case needed. I also used to label which cylinders on glow and spark plugs- something picked up at the dragstrip. He had me bring in parts and we tested all my old and even tested plugs in my engine, then pumled the ones from my engine as he explained meggers and fine resistance into the block farther from the ground cable. I actually learned I had one bad injector and another going bad because of the recorded history how two cylinders were wiping out glowplugs at a faster rate than the other 6.
So when I later worked in the fleet, I argued the point with bosses and thats what started the testing of plugs out of the engine. Thats when we found that good plugs can actually test bad, and bad plugs can actually test good when using the resistance as diagnostics. Btw, using amp will do the same thing, except make false readings worse because of bad grounding at plug, cable, etc. it is good to help learn of grounding issue- but doesn’t prove bad plug. Same reason when you amp test a starter, if it fails you the remove and bench test the starter and redo the amp test and if you variable is more than 1% you are to remove and clean grounds, and test battery cables with a megger. Then there is this fun factor to add in. When we were testing them in the shop one guy randomly grabbed 2 as comparisons right from the box and had a reading one at minimum ohm spec and the next at maximum- it was a hilarious example of mass production at it’s worst. So he checked all 32 new ones we had in the parts room. Thats when we actually bench tested them.
As pointed out by WarWagon, back in the day a cheap but accurate non contact thermal gun was not available. Now they are everywhere- harbor fraud has accurate ones for like a nickle! Why did GM say to use ohms? Because something other than replace with known good was desired.
So in the fleet what did we learn was the best method? When a hard start is noted, waste no time testing something that will give a subjective answer. Quick voltage check if one is getting power shows power good to plug. Then Grab 8 new plugs and swap them in and eliminate down time. Then you can put 4 in a vice easily at same time with a singe jumper lead with a battery jumper box (ground to vice, positive to lead) then the next 4. About 2-3 minute test and you knew which to reuse and what hit the trashcan. Use needle nose to remove connection and let the 4 fall or wear welding glove because they are hot a minute after testing. If you don’t have a vice at home, test one at a time.
Remember the contamination issue? Own a stainless steel wire brush and SAFETY GLASSES? Get it hot, disconnect power and a quick swipe on two sides. Rehook up power and use your temp gun again- ya might be surprised. We learned dont do it while they are energized and full hot because they look like a 4th of July sparkler sometimes depending whats on it, and yall know I am not safety sally over the top- so when I say safety glasses- believe it.
Now, back to the formula of testing plugs-note I didn’t mention what wattage for the formula. Why? Because they are tremendously all over the place. Like saying a light bulb in your house. Old school 60watt, or brighter porch light 100? “3 way” floor lamp bulb or is it fluorescent with newrly no amps and insane high wattage. Different brand glow plugsfor the 6.2/6.5 engine can literally have way more than double the wattage. The factory ac Delco 9g was discontinued so long ago that they reused the partnumber into the duramax. Anyone here think the AC Delco 60G self regulated unit is the same wattage or resistance as the old 9G? Haha. Yet look into the measurements for testing spec. They didn’t bother changing it. Why? Outdated engine that is no longer under warranty so they dont give a rip. On things that did change like fuel composition and had huge effects of wear of the injection system they didn’t make any changes for the consumer- even to the point of the lawsuits over the cp3! What makes anyone think they will spend money to update and outdated spec on an outdated engine not using updated tools- they don’t care. Like how humidity in the tire affects wear by different tire pressure- one question is applied: Do enough fail under warranty that we loose too much money? If the answer is no, let it go.
I have tried to dispell this myth as much as possible. Due the bench testing yourself, just be sure to go through enough sample to be fair- say 50 plugs. I would imagine there is enough folks here that if 10 people tried 50 used plugs, 1 person could say honestly that they think I am wrong because their testing matched simple ohms test by results. I also bet 7 would be able to confirm my test results as accurate without any doubt. It might have been unfair, but after the 3rdguy challenged me on the job, i kept a set of 8 plugs in my parts box at work as demo. I gave them to a guy when I quit wrenching pro, so he could show other doubters on the job and a chance to make back the $20 he lost to me on the promise he would only take the money once to break even.
Please put glow plug ohm test to bed along with rear head cooling loop kits for the sake of 6.5 love (or hate, depending on the day).
GM Guy
Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
So where can a guy check to see if a vendor is a certified Delco reseller? most of my 60Gs have been swiped off ebay, but a few have been off rockauto.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Most brick and mortar stores that sell them are. Our local napa is.