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Gave the BURB some lovin today

THEFERMANATOR

THEFERMANATOR

FRANKENBURBAN
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I picked up a set of 2" wheel spacers a couple of weeks ago, so I decided to install them and put in a set of 1 3/16" DRW wheel cylinders while I was at it. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I was a bit upset that my wheel cylinders that were less than 2 years old were already leaking, but for about $21 I got a set of AC DELCO 1 3/16" wheel cylinders off of AMAZON to go back in it. The larger wheel cylinders now give me the kind of brake bias it should have had from the factory. I can actually feel the rear brakes under light braking, and when I get on them there is NO MORE wandering. It stops straight as can be now. I had already put in the updated proportioning valve, and DURASTOP shoes like the TSB said, but I still had some wandering under hard braking. Not now, and it takes no where near the amount of pedal pressure to get it to come to a stop. Still debating on going to DRW front calipers, pads, and rotors when it is due for brakes again, but I will defiantely at least be going with the DRW front rotors as they are MUCH beefier than the SRW/2500 rotors. And the wife was complaining non stop about me putting the 2" rear wheel spacers on it until she seen it with them on. It looks SO MUCH better now, and I think it drives a little better at highway speeds. It doesn't seem to want to wander and be pulled so much in the grooves in the road, and didn't take no where near as much wheel correction on varying road surfaces after installing them. All and all I should have done the wheel cylinders earlier, and the spacers just make it look correct instead of lame with the recessed wheels in back.
Before
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After0822151912a.jpg
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DURACRAP parts are part of the problem. I assume that's what you meant anyway... Lining on the shoes make a big difference. The $100 set of Wagner Quiet stop shoes on the 1993 made a big difference alone. Autozone pads did not stop as well on our 1995 vs. the Wagner Quiet stop we put on after the Duracrap parts fell apart and ate the rotor.
 
WarWagon said:
DURACRAP parts are part of the problem. I assume that's what you meant anyway... Lining on the shoes make a big difference. The $100 set of Wagner Quiet stop shoes on the 1993 made a big difference alone. Autozone pads did not stop as well on our 1995 vs. the Wagner Quiet stop we put on after the Duracrap parts fell apart and ate the rotor.
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I used AC DELCO DURASTOPS, NOT autozone duralast parts. AC DELCO DURASTOPS ARE the updated shoes for the rear as per the GM TSB by part number. I don't use cheap pads anymore, it's RAYBESTOS for 99% of it, but I used AC DELCO so I knew I was getting the improved aggressive linings(even though AC DELCO frictions are made by RAYBESTOS, I wanted to be certain I was getting the correct friction material).
 
Always glad to see someone with better braking, and with the improved look of the wider stance -two thumbs up.
 
Welcome to the 'normal stop' club :D

With those spacers in the rear, will probably notice the RV sits a little straighter too. And semi's will now surprise you when their cab gets to your front window as the 'bow wave effect' should nearly disappear :cool:
 
My propride hitch took care of the bow wave effect. I didn't expect the spacers to help it run straighter empty though, but they sure did. Debating on going to the DRW front brakes now as from what I can find the larger calipers and thicker rotors should swap right in as SRW and DRW trucks all use the same hub bearings and spindle arms.
 
Thumbs up on the wider stance- looks good! I will have to remember the brake interchangeability the next time I need brakes- I am assuming the same mods would work with a 2500 pickup truck?
 
Yep, the DRW 1 3/16" wheel cylinders will work in all of the 14 bolts. They are also a nice upgrade if you have an older DODGE 2500/3500 truck with rear drum brakes. I believe it was from 94-00 DODGE used the same brakes as GM did, except DODGE used 1 size smaller wheel cylinders than GM did. So there DRW trucks only got the 1 1/16" wheel cylinders, so the 1 3/16" wheel cylinders are a drop in upgrade on them as well for a MUCH needed brake improvement.
 
Still happy with them. They were money well spent to me. The best part is having the front and rear wheel tracks lining up which means it doesnt try to drive itself side to side through the troughs in the road. Several roads before it would wander from the 2 rear tracks riding in different grooves in the road, and it was annoying chasing the wheel, thats gone.
 
What is the TSB for?

Also, a semi-related question, is there a website that allows anyone to look up GM TSBs, preferably for free?
 
GM Guy said:
What is the TSB for?
Click to expand...

The Burbs. They got rotor warpage from too much front bias and IIRC the 1 ton proportioning valve was the revised part.


GM Guy said:
Also, a semi-related question, is there a website that allows anyone to look up GM TSBs, preferably for free?
Click to expand...

Yes. SaferCar.gov which is free. From what I can tell it is one of the most valuable uses of our tax dollars yet the most under used by the population. Just think what might have happened if people posted all the PMD issues for Uncle to see . . .
 
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