Gasket maker & o-rings

[treegump]

If I change my inner filter when I do the hoot method, can I use gasket maker for the pan or reuse the gasket? In the posts I've seen, I never see any mention of the gasket for the pan.

Also, do I need new o-rings also? If so, anyone know what size?

I'd like to do this soon, but I'm working 7-14's and don't exactly have time to shop...

 

[3500GMC]

Sorry but I gotta ask, Allison trans, right?

These are a metal shim with rubber on it so ya I'd re-use that kind. (pan)

The spin on filter has an oring already (?)

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Theres no need to drop the pan and do the inner filter unless your rebuilding it. It is a lifetime filter and is really just a screen to keep large particles out. And you re-use the gasket as it is a metal gasket designed to be a structural seal.

 

[treegump]

Oh. I wonder if I can return the inner filter than, because I was under the understanding that when I did the hoot method or 50/50 method that it was best to change the inner filter too. I'm at 90k miles, with evidence of hard off road driving, and no evidence of regular maintenance. But I trust y'all's advice, so whatever you think is best. I'm shy about the hoot method, but it makes the most sense...

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Oh. I wonder if I can return the inner filter than, because I was under the understanding that when I did the hoot method or 50/50 method that it was best to change the inner filter too. I'm at 90k miles, with evidence of hard off road driving, and no evidence of regular maintenance. But I trust y'all's advice, so whatever you think is best. I'm shy about the hoot method, but it makes the most sense...

The internal filter isn't a fine mesh filter like most are accustomed to seeing, it is more or less just a screen. The spin on is the important one to do. For the hoot flush it is best to drop the pan to get a good drain as there will still be about 2 quarts in it even after draining. A good way to get a good drain on an ALLISON is to pull it in and drop the pan, pull the internal filter out, and let it sit overnight. When you pull the filter out and leave the pan off the converter and pump can drain back and this will normally get you close to 10-12 quarts out of the 16-18 total. As for the internal filter, they really don't normally need changing unless the trans is ready to be built. If it has enough stuff in the pan to plug it, then you have bigger problems than needing a service. And if your inner filter is an aftermarket, I would HIGHLY reccomend a filter loc. The aftermarket filters don't have the large tab on them like the ALLISON filters do and they can fall out causing it to not pump fluid or slip and burn up.

 

[btfarm]

You really don't have to do the Hoot method Forest. Drain it, refill it, drive around the block, drain it, change spin on, refill, done.
Use TES295 (Transynd, Mobil Delvac synth, etc) equiv. fluid. About 4 gal total for the 2 drains.

 

[3500GMC]

All these years and GM hasn't put a damn drain plug in the damn torque converters... :mad2:

 

[Mike L.]

The sump filter is not a screen. It is a folded paper element. I would change it.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

The sump filter is not a screen. It is a folded paper element. I would change it.

The ones I have cut open weren't a very fine filter like those in most autos. It was a very course type filter more or less for the bigger particles I figured, and the spin on was teh actual important filter. At least it isn't like the 3000 series with those big drop out filters that cost a small fortune.

 

[Mike L.]

Ferm
If a torrington bearing or something else starts to let loose you will want to know and dropping the pan will show you this. Installing a new sump filter will cost no more than a couple of beers in a bar. At least you won't piss that money away. OK I'm a filter freak.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Ferm
If a torrington bearing or something else starts to let loose you will want to know and dropping the pan will show you this. Installing a new sump filter will cost no more than a couple of beers in a bar. At least you won't piss that money away. OK I'm a filter freak.

I'm a filter freak as well, but I was going by the ALLISON reccomendation of only change it during a rebuild.

 

[Mike L.]

Allison has there recommendation policy for stock horse power trucks that drive slow and tow. This policy can be dangerous for us guys that drive hard and run a lot of hp. The filter paper in the Alli is the same material used in the 4L85E and every other GM transmission. Allison used a screen up until 2002 when they changed to the paper element.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Allison has there recommendation policy for stock horse power trucks that drive slow and tow. This policy can be dangerous for us guys that drive hard and run a lot of hp. The filter paper in the Alli is the same material used in the 4L85E and every other GM transmission. Allison used a screen up until 2002 when they changed to the paper element.

That explains it as my 2 trannies are both 01's, and when I looked at my replacement filter element it looked like a coarser grade paper than most I am used to seeing and figured it was more or less a screen type like the origanal VS a fine particle filter.

 

[Mike L.]

That explains it as my 2 trannies are both 01's, and when I looked at my replacement filter element it looked like a coarser grade paper than most I am used to seeing and figured it was more or less a screen type like the origanal VS a fine particle filter.

Save those filters as they are better for high performance.

 

[treegump]

Well, I ended up just doing what Mike recommend I do (as did many other people on many different duramax boards) and do the "50/50" swap. And I only changed the external filter. I ended up getting an ac delco filter by accident, so I'll be swapping that out with an allison as soon as I order it, receive it, and have time/energy to do it.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

The ACDELCO filter is an ALLISON filter spray painted blue and sold for $32-38 VS the $8-9 for the ALLISON filter.