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Fuel system setup

I tried to post this additional comment, but time to edit had expired.

OEM "socks" are washable remember Mom always said "wear clean socks", but with the vintage of these trucks you may want to have a new OEM style in hand, just in case the mesh of screen is no longer pliable or already broken.
The sock has some trash on it but I didn't take time to get a picture. Based on what I've seen on it, though and how much I love removing fuel tanks, I'm thinking seriously about going with a 100 micron inline screen like what I posted earlier in this thread. If the factory sock is 70, then my only concern is wondering if 100 is too fine in order to pull the fuel through it. I suspect that a clean 100 might flow better and be safer than a dirty 70 that can bypass and suck whatever gets into it.
 
The sock has some trash on it but I didn't take time to get a picture. Based on what I've seen on it, though and how much I love removing fuel tanks, I'm thinking seriously about going with a 100 micron inline screen like what I posted earlier in this thread. If the factory sock is 70, then my only concern is wondering if 100 is too fine in order to pull the fuel through it. I suspect that a clean 100 might flow better and be safer than a dirty 70 that can bypass and suck whatever gets into it.
For other readers Snow & I chatted on the phone earlier today I have been on storm disaster recovery mission work again since last Sunday, he was a little mixed up in his understanding of filtration the smaller the # the more finer the filtration, I still run the 70 micron "sock" on mine, into a Racor 30 micron water/trash separator just prior to the lift pumps, https://www.jmesales.com/racor-400-series-diesel-spin-on-fuel-filter-45-gph-30-0-17-psi-r45p/ because I have dual lifts 28gph (AC/Delco) and a 45 gph Walbro I run the 60gph variant, into the 6 micron OEM FFM that came with the truck modded with FTB ,before sending to the IP.

Ryan shop around for better price than in the posted link, TEMU (China) sells a knock off for 1/4 the price, but their filter and the bottom bowl are known to leak, the head is same thread as Racors, . you could save some coin running the China head, and Wix filter and Racor base for bottom of the filter.

We wound up having to swap a tire on our equipment trailer after I talked to you, I'll grab a photo ofmy setup tomorrow, I'm about "whipped" running a chainsaw for nearly 7 days straight, has about done me in, I'm headed for the "rain-locker" and probably fall asleep 9in my recliner shortly after getting into it. 🤫
 
Thanks for the information and links @Turbine Doc . I'm still not sure I want a bowl type under the truck so I'm considering these:

32 micron puts it close to the Racor we discussed and 12-15 GPM is far more than I'll ever see. My plan would be to modify my existing lift pump bracket or make up a new one to accept both the pump and filter head.
 
In September, 2015, I said I might add a filter at a later date. I guess it's later.


20260321_120037[1].jpg

I used the same bracket that can be seen in the link but just added some holes to hold both pieces. I'll find a fab shop that can bend a new bracket for me and I'll eventually raise the filter so it doesn't hang below the frame. I'm not crazy about the location but since I removed the sock, I needed something to catch the rocks and marbles. before the lift pump.
 
On sale, about $16. The $145 unit is just the rod. I have that and in my case, made the bouncing needle look more like a pole dancer twitching next to an ATM that only dispensed $1 bills.
I also dislike the fuel levels represented. Too long to explain fully. Just suffice it to say, I have only gone 60 miles when the gauge reads 3/4 remaining and 10 gal. left when the gauge reads empty.

Still, Maybe the full unit will work better...I'm about to give it a shot because I don't trust the quality of any of the OEM-ish products, it's about the same price on sale, and it can't be any worse than what I have now.
Paul I think possibly what you are seeing with the Metrium is due to shape of the fuel tank.

I have the std 26 gal tank on mine, when I did Metrium years ago; I filled the tank 2 gallons at a time it took 6 gallons of fuel from empty to move float, which is about right considering the baffle tray keeps the float from sitting on the bottom.

Then I added more @ 2 gal to about 1/4 tank indicated 9-ish gallons added, then it was pretty linear from 1/4 tank up, I continued 2 gal at a time to packed 26gal how much in filler neck/tip top of tank ???

When neck at that point gal gauge goes over F indicated about 1/8 over full indicated mine takes a long time to show movement and gradual appearing more consumption rate observed when transitioning from the tall through the fatter middle part of the tank.

I've had the Metrium in my about 15 years now, it lasted much longer than the OEM level sender, which I think the float rod or plastic body/rheostat wiper at sustained max swing can manage, after "max fills" when Diesel station pump stop clicks, and I/we like to "pack" fuel tanks, especially now with ULSD foaming throwing off the nozzles "tank full" sensing, and our ability to watch bubbles go down into liquid fuel again.
 
I agree and have similar observations on all points. Shape of the tank, approx number of gal. left at each quarter on the fuel gauge and the quality / longevity of the unit.
I had a couple of long civil, conversations with Leroy on it and, in the end, because of the electrical resistances over a measured length of wiring, magnetic fields around the float and earth rotational voodoo etc. (just kidding about earth rotation) the length of the rod is mathematically fixed. Because of the tank's pyramid like shape, the rod's length doesn't allow it to reach to the tank's bottom to give a more accurate reading towards empty. From one of our conversations

1776638618663.png

So, install, observe mileage at various gauge readings, give one's self a safety margin and adjust accordingly.
As for needle bounce, in my case, it hasn't stopped the dancing needle.
 
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