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Fuel issues: Hiccups and stalls - air bubbles

juddspaintballs

my balls are painted!
Messages
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Location
West by God Virginia
1999 Burb with 24x,xxx miles on it.

I recently was down on power so after replacing injectors and filters, I moved on to the lift pump. I installed Leroy's Walbro pump and pre-filter kit and got most of my power back buy suspected the tank sock to be a bit plugged up. No issues up to this point as far as stalling or hiccuping.

Since I had to drop the tank to pull the tank sock, I decided to do the Metrum Rod Fuel Sending Unit upgrade for more accurate tank readings at the gauge. After a little bit of trimming and resoldering all was well with it and it works beautifully (Leroy was a pleasure to deal with).

While dropping the tank the first time, the return line at the tank broke on the steel line from rust. The supply line fitting spun off easily but the hard line was pretty rusty too. I cut the sending unit lines just beyond the nuts and slid rubber fuel hose over them and clamped them tight then did the same on the frame side of things. When I went for a drive the engine kept hiccuping and stalled out on my several times.

I dropped the tank again thinking my patch wasn't enough and replaced the factory hard line from the sending unit all the way to the new Walbro pump with rubber fuel hose. I also replaced that same length section of the return line in rubber. On the sending unit itself, the suction side has at least 1.5" of hose slipped over the steel line with two appropriately sized worm clamps on it and it terminates at the pump with a brass barbed fitting and a worm clamp. I also replaced the spin on filter and filter in the FFM between the first and second tank drop. At idle, the suction line shows no signs of collapsing and isn't even a bit soft.

The hiccups continue even after replacing the lines between tank and lift pump. I even stalled once today. Some things to note that I've discovered so far:
- At idle (or engine off and pump wired to run), I can hook up a clear hose to the T bleeder in the engine bay and see bubbles flow through along with the fuel. Sometimes it's light, other times it's more air than fuel. Sometimes it's only fuel with no air bubbles.

- I've got 42 gallons of fresh diesel in the tank

- Sometimes it runs great at all RPM/loads, other times it hiccups/stalls at very light throttle, and sometimes it's only hiccuping under heavy acceleration

- The tank sock is now removed. Prior to me dropping the tank, this issue did not exist. Tank was actually quite clean inside.

- When I replaced the pre-lift pump spin on filter as a trouble shooting measure, it was only about 1/2 full of fuel when I took it off.




Obviously air is getting in somehow. My best guess at this point is that the sending unit suction line on the outside of the tank (all about 2" of it before the rubber line starts) has a small hole in it and is sucking in air. It seems pretty silly to buy a new sending unit only to rip out the actual sending unit part to put my MRFSU in it's place, but if that's what I have to do, I will. Is there any way to build a pickup tube? It's got to be something between tank and lift pump. If there were a leak in the suction line, it would be spraying fuel out, not sucking air in. If the supply line leaked after the lift pump, it would also be spraying fuel not sucking air (since the lift pump pumps far more fuel than the engine can consume). Even if my rubber line was collapsing under suction, it would restrict flow, not introduce bubbles.

Any other ideas?
 
Check the left pump o ring for the bowl. Put clear hose before the lift pump. After lift pump. Use clear hose in other suspect places to track down the source of air like this.
Replace the pickup/sending unit.
 
Some things to consider. After doing my FTB mod i had found several leaks after crawling around under the truck. The nut on the fuel heater element has a rubber seal that can go bad or the nut may be loose. In my case it was just loose after the R&R so i tightened and it stopped. The other leak was on the drain hose for the FM leading to the spigot. It had a slight crack where the clamp was and a drip every 5 seconds was coming from there. I replaced the hose and clamps and all was good. Also on the hummer they supply a fuel pressure test port shrader valve and mine had a leak in it. Tightening did not help as there is a rubber seal under the shrader that was rotted. I replaced the whole valve and body. I too have had problems with both the large diameter nut and the bleeder nuts on the filters. The o rings seem to jam up on the bleeder and the seal on the big nut gets tangled with the metal ring. It would appear the 6.5 like most engines don't like air in the fuel and the tiniest amount seems to cause problems.
 
At this point my next step is going to be to drop the tank and pull the sending unit out again. I'm considering making a whole new sending unit, basically. I figure I can cut a piece of sheet metal out in the same diameter and then make a new pickup tube and return hose in there. The vent line will be a piece of cake and all the MRFSU needs is a hole for the bolt to go through. It seems silly to spend $100 on a new sending unit to rip the electronics portion off and use only the metal part.

Aside from that, I'm considering using a hard flexible fuel line for the suction side. "New" sending unit and new lines all the way up to the lift pump should solve the issue...I hope.

Do you really think the problem could be beyond the lift pump? It had no issues before I pulled the tank and is only now having issues. I didn't touch a thing beyond the lift pump since I installed it.

The lift pump is maybe a month old. Do you really suspect that the bowl gasket could be bad already, WW?
 
Depending on condition I would just modify the old FSU plate thang (or whatever you call it) Cut the tubes off, grind them smooth and install some AN type bulk head fittings.

Or you could go sump pick up?
 
No where local has a sending unit in stock to tear apart and use. Looks like I have to build my own. I'm considering replacing all of the fuel lines completely. Can I build them out of steel brake line and simply add the nuts from the stock lines where I need to tie into stock fittings?
 
Brake lines sound awful small to me. Steel lines would hold up to the fuel well. Seamless stainless is the best but pricey.
 
I say check the fuel bowel o-ring if you ever had it off no other reason. Otherwise put a clear line before the lift pump to track down the air source. After the lift pump in case it is coming from the fitting, bowl o-ring etc. A plugged tank sock or kinked hose will boil the diesel in the fuel line from IP vacuum.
 
5/16 will be to small, needs 3/8" min. I have some rubber hose made by Parker that is heavy duty, 3/8". Im ordering 25" tomorrow for a customer @ $2.00/ft. If you want 25 ft also let me know.
Wont be to hard to make your own pick up.
 
No thanks Leroy. If I can avoid long runs of hose, I'd like to. The local parts store sells 3/8" brake line as well.

What's an easy way to make a new pickup tube? I can't quite figure out how to seal the line as it passes through the plate.
 
Well, Im looking at mine now. I see the protrusion/raised area you mentioned. It looks like you could still cut the tubes off then grind down the raised areas, doing that will will open up the diameter of the hole. Even so it looks like you could use a 3/8 or 1/2" bulkhead fitting for the supply/return lines. You'll want to find some with an oring (like my MRFSU has). Or, if you want to "red neck it" you could probably even just use rubber washers on a pipe fitting.

If there was enough intrest I'd even make a version of it from billet alluminum with AN fittings.
 
I'm sure I could make one of those. Bulkhead fitting - that's what I was looking for. There's a local diesel/speed shop that has all sorts of AN fittings at competitive rates. I'm sure they'll have what I'm looking for. If they have braided lines too, that's what I'll go for. Leroy, are the fittings at the FFM special or will I be able to find those somewhere that sells AN and pipe fittings?
 
I'm sure I could make one of those. Bulkhead fitting - that's what I was looking for. There's a local diesel/speed shop that has all sorts of AN fittings at competitive rates. I'm sure they'll have what I'm looking for. If they have braided lines too, that's what I'll go for. Leroy, are the fittings at the FFM special or will I be able to find those somewhere that sells AN and pipe fittings?

Just regular push on. 3/8"
If you want to do FTB mod you could also install an AN fitting in FFM.
 
Feed The Beast. Enlarging the fuel supply lines to the ip. Search the stickys.

Most people do it for the ability of more fuel supply in order to produce more power.

IMO It will also help in a longer lp life. The gasser and diesel trucks are known to have a greatly shortened life when the fuel filters become restrictive- the harder the pump works to move the fuel the sooner it wears out. The larger fuel lines allow the same volume of fuel flow with less restriction creating the opposite effect. Also more cool fuel circulating through the pump will keep it cooler (maybe the ip also?). Or am I nuts on this one?:dunno:
 
Gotcha. I guess I'll plan for a 8AN fitting for supply and 6AN for return then. I never thought I'd be getting this far into it but if I'm going this far, I might as well do it right. When all is said and done, I should be able to put whatever tune on it I want to now...
 
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