- Staff
- #1
I'm sure I'm not alone with the infamous bouncing fuel gauge that goes all over the place whenever you hit the throttle, brakes, go around a turn, and so on. I replaced my sending unit with one of the metrum rods a few years back when it first started, but this didn't stop the problem. GM used to offer a fuel damper module under a TSB that you could install to stop this, but they have discontinued it LONG ago, and ALL stock of them is LONG GONE!(I checked, I can't find one ANYWHERE for the 0-90 ohm sender) Many have resorted to filling the air core motor in the cluster with 30K weight silicone fluid to stop the hummingbird effect, and to slow it's movement so the sloshing isn't so noticeable, and even some have resorted to trying to install capacitors and resistors to try and average out the fuel gauge reading without much success(I'm the guilty one of this)
I was about to give up on this problem that irritates me to no end, but I just stumbled across a solution tonight. A company called SPEEDWAY MOTORS makes a fuel gauge interface module that installs between your sender and gauge, and can be calibrated to work any gauge with any sender(it was made for the classic car market so they could use the old style senders with modern style gauges). It has an anti-slosh feature built into it to stop the dancing fuel gauge, it is set up so you can calibrate teh empty and full points to where you want them on the gauge, and it also has a driver in it to power up a low fuel light(it is a VERY low amp driver, and says it can either power a relay to turn on an incandescent bulb, or power a small LED, but nothing more). With a set of dip switches and an adjusteable reostat, you can set it to MANY different style of sending units(the GMT-400 trucks is 0-90 which is an oddball as GM had switches to 40-240 ohm for many of ther other vehicles of this era, hence why we can't use the S-10 or van fuel buffer module, I tried, wouldn't work), and then go in using the same dip switches and reostat adjust teh empty and full points on the gauge itslef. Seems like a nice product, and I will be ordering one here shortly to try it out when I do my ESCALADE cluster swap as all of the reviews on it are all 5 stor with no bad reviews of it anywhere I looked.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Gauge-...ash=item3cf8bb5c35:g:YqAAAOSw9N1VvTeL&vxp=mtr
I was about to give up on this problem that irritates me to no end, but I just stumbled across a solution tonight. A company called SPEEDWAY MOTORS makes a fuel gauge interface module that installs between your sender and gauge, and can be calibrated to work any gauge with any sender(it was made for the classic car market so they could use the old style senders with modern style gauges). It has an anti-slosh feature built into it to stop the dancing fuel gauge, it is set up so you can calibrate teh empty and full points to where you want them on the gauge, and it also has a driver in it to power up a low fuel light(it is a VERY low amp driver, and says it can either power a relay to turn on an incandescent bulb, or power a small LED, but nothing more). With a set of dip switches and an adjusteable reostat, you can set it to MANY different style of sending units(the GMT-400 trucks is 0-90 which is an oddball as GM had switches to 40-240 ohm for many of ther other vehicles of this era, hence why we can't use the S-10 or van fuel buffer module, I tried, wouldn't work), and then go in using the same dip switches and reostat adjust teh empty and full points on the gauge itslef. Seems like a nice product, and I will be ordering one here shortly to try it out when I do my ESCALADE cluster swap as all of the reviews on it are all 5 stor with no bad reviews of it anywhere I looked.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Gauge-...ash=item3cf8bb5c35:g:YqAAAOSw9N1VvTeL&vxp=mtr