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Fuel contamination

Stoney said:
@jrsavoie is it a basic hydraulic line?
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Pretty close. I think AN10 fittings.

A good hydraulic shop will be able to replicate the line out of hydraulic hose or very possibly braided stainless.

We have a nappa and farm implement dealerships that also make lines. - as close as anything else here - about 25 miles away.
 
Doing it he high pressure hydraulic lines is the best option. They will never fail.
It is more expensive but worth it if you are keeping the truck long term.

That is what hummers and hmmwvs use. Guys buy 1980s decommissioned hmmwvs and the hoses are original and no one bothers to replace them. Yet in the pickups it is a constant worry. Simply a mistake.
 
I second the hydraulic lines, the only draw back is not securing them where they get rubbing wear or the outside gets saturated in oil from other leaks as with any hose material.

wherever you have them made at, be sure to blow and flush them out. I have found many times when the hose is cut there will be small rubber particle inside the hose at the ends. when installing them in critical areas that rubber can make it's way into the system. you don't want that rubber to make it into the oil galleys eventually into the mains and rod bearings.

at my work we had taken a n14 Cummins out of a crane just to reseal everything that leaked. it got all new seals and gaskets. dropped it back into the crane and drove it out to the work site. the engine didn't last 20 minutes before it seized up. pulling it apart for an inspection to see what had happened, it was determined that when we had the oil filter housing off the engine to replace the seal to the block. a tiny I mean tiny bits of dust got into the engine causing the mains and rod bearings to self destruct! That was a $30k mistake.
 
Will L. said:
I’m no help on right or wrong part.
Brakes sound like they are hanging up. I would normally just do a flush and recheck. If hoses are damaged or suspicious of interior damage I change them, then flush.

Burned fluid is indicating brakes being hung up.

You could use some of that brake line you just bought and bypass the abs for testing. If you don’t have a proportioning valve separate from the abs- then use extra caution.
Aftermarket adjustable proportioning valves come in handy for such situations.

I figure, you been driving thousands of miles with half the brakes not working so far. In for a penny, right? 😐
Bypass, new brake lines that you know are correct and flush. Then test. A caliper that is hanging up will do the same thing. This way you eliminate the abs possibility.
Obviously doing all this with the brakes you are risking crashing and such so test cautiously on a closed coarse away from public and preferably in a test laboratory, right? Yeah...
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Or hope like hell there's a nice, large tree to stop you at the end of your "test track"!
 
Ok now I'm confused. Ive had company truck lately so haven't messed with mine. Went and bought a roll of 3/16 nicap brake line today to redo the fronts. As I've said before I'm going to delete the ABS in the process. I ordered front brake hoses awhile back from R.A....and just compared the passenger side one to old one. It seems that the actual rubber hose part is smaller around on the new one compared to old one.. it's also smaller around than the driver side new hose.
I'm thinking something is wrong here. And also the truck is a 8,700 . Does that mean it's actually a HD. ? Someone ( @dbrannon79 ) I think.. said the the hd ones are different.. I don't want to put them in if there the wrong ones
 
What is important is the INSIDE diameter of the brake hoses and the hose's burst strength, not the outside diameter. Also, it is easy to tell if your 3500 is an HD - it will have a solid, one piece front axle, it will have straight frame rails with no drop for the cab - with a filler panel between the bumper and grille and will have 19.5" wheels on it. ALSO, the C3500HD was ONLY available as a cab & chassis and NOT for direct sale to the general public, rather it was designated for either fleet sales or to upfitters for installation of a dump bed, flat bed, service box, bucket platform, etc.
 
Read what I posted. What makes it an HD is its straight frame, solid front axle (one piece I-beam with leaf springs on each side) raised cab with the wide filler in the space between the bumper and grille because its raised and 19.5" rims.

The picture of that door sticker is for a plain old 3500, NOT a 3500HD! First dead give away is look at the factory tire size, 16" rims!
 
@Husker6.5 is right for a true HD. your's shows 10,000 lb gvrw which is the heavy version of the standard 3500 series. they made three versions of the normal 3500 series, 8700, 9000, 10,000lb. Mine is a 9000lb

Are the ones you bought from RA AC Delco? if so they should be the right ones. ones you have on the truck now if they were from "Vato"-Zone they most likely are aftermarket and are made a little different. most important thing is the length and inside diameter. I recall you mentioned that the ones on your truck now seem to stretch out when you jack up the front off the ground. they should not do that. there should be enough hose to allow the front suspension to move full travel up and down without stretching or kinking the hose.


on a side note, if you are eliminating the ABS box, I am interested on which proportioning valve you end up using and where you get it. I may want to do the same thing.
 
Thank you @dbrannon79 . That's what I was trying to explain was that it's the heavier duty version. Until you pointed that out I didn't know there were different versions.. this is a problem because before when if buy parts at AutoZone, there computer does differentiate .. some of their parts will say except 10,000 pounds. We never knew there was a difference so we always got the others not the 10,000. Which Now can be one hell of a problem. I'm 5 years of buying parts I have to wonder what all is not the right parts that I have put on that truck.
As For the proportioning valve, I'll definitely let you know I haven't really decided which one I'm buying yet. I will probably have to get it from jeg or summit
 
for the most of the parts they should be the same as long as they matched what came off your truck (size and shape wise) as for the hoses, I think there are different lengths between the series trucks. also makes a difference sometimes when it's 4x4 and 2x4. the ones you have from RA, are they Delco's and for the 10k lb truck? when you get around to installing. hold them up to the hose that's installed and see if they are going to fit better and not get pulled tight when up in the air.

sometimes it's all about the positioning and route the hose is in. there should be a bracket that is near the center of the hose which bolts onto the top side of the spindle. that bracket will slide up and down on the hose, should be a snug fit on the hose but no so tight that you can't slide it one way or the other to have enough slack between where it attaches up on the frame to the spindle, also when you turn the wheels left or right it won't get kinked there ether.
 
EWC said:
Don't delete the ABS .
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Legally and in theory we (almost) all agree abd is a better system- especially where he lives dealing with weather issues.

But He is broke and cant get the system working due to economics. So he is basically turning it into a 1980’s truck vs a 1990’s truck because it is lower cost.
If you can donate the cash for his system to be fully repaired properly- I bet he wouldn’t turn down the offer.
 
@Will L. Actually I would. Guys on here have already helped me beyond belief.
But yes @EWC I'd agree with you normally. This isn't something I really want to do. And I'm honestly not sure it will fix a damn thing. But I am completely out of ideas. I have sunk so much money in to trying to figure out what that idiot did to my truck, I am just at a loss. And now knowing that there is a difference between the trucks and that this truck is actually the 10,000 lb version, I'm honestly just not sure because I have bought tons of parts thinking that it was not the 10,000 LB One.
 
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