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front brakes

haggus

haggus

Member
Messages
220
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5
Location
Sooke BC
I was following war wagon post on front brakes on a k2500 so I get to the part when I loosen the four bolts holding the hub on the shaft so somehow 2 of them got rounded I used a 6 point impact and a breaker bar the others I got loose so what can I use to get the rounded ones out.

Do I have to take the whole assembly out upper lower ball joint tie rods will I be able to take the whole assembly out it looks possible but I don't really know what I should do here. Calipers are off hoses disconnected. I'm doing this at home and kind of thinking I should have taken it to the shop. I have tie rods upper/lower ball joints except the drivers side still appears to be riveted does this mean it's OEM with 270k km on it.

Really could use some advice thanks
 
lots of luck to ya those things can be a bear to get out. I believe they have thread locker on them from OEM. Mine have antisieze on them now
 
I've been through this on my '99 Suburban. You are in for a bear of a job. I pulled off the entire steering knuckle and drilled the bolts out. But it was not easy and I broke many bit and ruined a steering knuckle. Ended up buying some used steering knuckles. The work was spread over several weekends and was not very fun.
 
Big T said:
I've been through this on my '99 Suburban. You are in for a bear of a job. I pulled off the entire steering knuckle and drilled the bolts out. But it was not easy and I broke many bit and ruined a steering knuckle. Ended up buying some used steering knuckles. The work was spread over several weekends and was not very fun.
Click to expand...

I would have to agree it is a PITA job I have started plans for a new workshop garage getting built in Spring but right now I'm out there working in the rain getting a small bit done at a time then I run into issues where I need another tool and the nearest place is 20 min away.

I told the wife last night once I get enough cash for a duramax I am personally driving the old truck to the crusher putting the crushed block in the duramax and using it as an outdoor coffee table.
 
Big T said:
Here's the thread (with photos) where I described the finish on mine:

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...-s-all-pretty-in-front&highlight=Front+Brakes
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link I was looking at it and figured taking it out might be the easier way to work on it but I may be visiting the local wreckers in the near future as well I guess any 88-99 2500 will match up for the front.

Hopefully the bolt remover socket will grab it I am just getting ready to give that a try.
 
Well I got it all apart finally. Tools I now own:

1 set of SAE hex sockets 29.00
1 3/4 drive set 129.00
1 set of bolt remover sockets (which didn't have 15mm) 69.00

So warwagon post on front brake job is accurate but leaves out some the brute force aspects that I ran into. Firstly I had to remove tie rod at the steering knuckle made access to the rounded bolt easier if I had done this first I most likely would not have rounded the nut. Secondly for some odd reason nut extractor socket sets seem to come w/o 15mm .I had to take a 9/16 impact and beat it on there like it owed me money then the breaker bar got it out.

Getting the rotors out took some more gentle persuasion with a hammer more like I had to beat the freakin snot out of the drivers side. I already had new ball joints and tie rods I was going to put in but getting the rivets out I broke a 5/16 HSS bit no big deal got it out anyway. The front is pretty heavily rusty which is unusual for vehicles out here in the Northwest.

A arm bushings will get replaced new bolts to hold the rotor on. I had an ABS light on pulled the codes I am just wondering if there is a way to test them. I am thinking I will just spring for new rotors bearings and bolts it won't be cheap but it will all be brand new. After it's all back together the aluminum turbine rims with new tires go on and off to the garage for a front end alignment
 
I took and sanded the rust out of the rotor where it mated with the hub as well as the hub and antisiezed the heck out of it. Took it apart about 1 yr later and the rotor came right off no beating etc.
 
haggus said:
Well I got it all apart finally. Tools I now own:

1 set of SAE hex sockets 29.00
1 3/4 drive set 129.00
1 set of bolt remover sockets (which didn't have 15mm) 69.00

So warwagon post on front brake job is accurate but leaves out some the brute force aspects that I ran into. Firstly I had to remove tie rod at the steering knuckle made access to the rounded bolt easier if I had done this first I most likely would not have rounded the nut. Secondly for some odd reason nut extractor socket sets seem to come w/o 15mm .I had to take a 9/16 impact and beat it on there like it owed me money then the breaker bar got it out.

Getting the rotors out took some more gentle persuasion with a hammer more like I had to beat the freakin snot out of the drivers side. I already had new ball joints and tie rods I was going to put in but getting the rivets out I broke a 5/16 HSS bit no big deal got it out anyway. The front is pretty heavily rusty which is unusual for vehicles out here in the Northwest.

A arm bushings will get replaced new bolts to hold the rotor on. I had an ABS light on pulled the codes I am just wondering if there is a way to test them. I am thinking I will just spring for new rotors bearings and bolts it won't be cheap but it will all be brand new. After it's all back together the aluminum turbine rims with new tires go on and off to the garage for a front end alignment
Click to expand...

Failing bearings are the most likely cause for the ABS light. Buy Timkin bearings from Rock Auto, google search for their discount code and use that for 5% off the order. I got my rotors, calipers and pads from NAPA. All ball joints and A-arm bushings were Moog and purchased at Rock Auto.

I had the nut extractors and they did not work for me. Glad they did for you. Good news is once you've done this job, it's easier the next time. :). Use silicone gasket sealer between bearing and brake backing plate, otherwise water gets into the bearing and they fail.
 
There is a rockauto code in the deal finder section here usually.

My 93 Cab and chassis 4x4 has all origional upper and lower ball joints w/ 236K on the clock but I had to replace all the steering linkage. Now my recently purchased 93 dually has all new ball joints but OEM tierods, idler, and pitman. Not sure what the cause of the wear on some parts is but it doesnt make since that a 4x4 construction truck has better front end than a 4x2 horse hauler.

Good luck with the front end repairs, I hope I dont have to undertake this chore soon. I've been doing ball joints (typically all 4), idlers and pitmans (w/ brace), tie rods, and 2 cv shafts on all our GMT 800 trucks around the farm (4 in total, I havent done my Dmax yet)
 
It's finally all back together hopefully off to the shop for an alignment tomorrow. I should have parked the truck and ordered parts from down south. I paid way to much for them locally in Canada.

I shudder at what I just spent on this truck. The total was close to 2500.00 The bearings and ABS sensors were 700.00 each side. After all is said and done the truck ABS light is out and I should be good for a while for any major repairs fingers crossed.
 
Ouch! That is ridiculously costly. Rockauto.com has the Timkin bearings with sensors for $152 before the 5% discount code. Don't hink the shipping to Canada would cost $400.
 
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