treegump
Romans 3:22-24
Not building one - but thought I'd start a thread just with pictures and ideas for beds and flatbeds.
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
Flatbed & Bed ideas
- Thread starter treegump
- Start date
treegump
Romans 3:22-24
.
treegump
Romans 3:22-24
I wish I would've taken a photo of a bed I saw earlier today.
Black diamond plate flatbed on F250.
The headache rack appeared to be flat black, flat steel - with the exhaust stacks built into the headache rack.
The side rails appeared to double as ramps - black diamond plate as well.
It was a really cool project over all.
Black diamond plate flatbed on F250.
The headache rack appeared to be flat black, flat steel - with the exhaust stacks built into the headache rack.
The side rails appeared to double as ramps - black diamond plate as well.
It was a really cool project over all.
schiker
Well-Known Member
I toy with some ideas but not seriously. I do want to make a floor box out of plywood or buy some rigid boxes for the extended cab. My kids are getting heavy enough to damage stuff stepping on my soft side tool bag in the floor. I sometimes surf looking for stuff. I haven't seen a neat under seat organizer for my truck (there is some wasted space there). Probably going to have do something custom. Wish I had the third door. That is one of the only things I really miss in my truck.
I would like to go to a good work truck show (nothing big enough around here). http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/flee...n-accessories-from-the-work-truck-show_o.aspx
Have you looked at Pintrest? Its not just for women. I have seen some neat tool organizing stuff and workbench ideas on there. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/422071796303351691/
Years ago I was involved in one flatbed design that was pretty basic with a box hung under bed between cab and rear wheels. That seems like a minimum standard IMO. If I did one I would want to fit as many boxes under it as I could and skirt off remainder to make it look symmetrical and finished. Might taper rear skirt/boxes. One of the other guys said for another job he had done front and back boxes then put a wheel well tub and plate to cover with cubby holes in the triangularish areas above the wheel tub for wheel chocks if you can picture that.
I would like to go to a good work truck show (nothing big enough around here). http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/flee...n-accessories-from-the-work-truck-show_o.aspx
Have you looked at Pintrest? Its not just for women. I have seen some neat tool organizing stuff and workbench ideas on there. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/422071796303351691/
Years ago I was involved in one flatbed design that was pretty basic with a box hung under bed between cab and rear wheels. That seems like a minimum standard IMO. If I did one I would want to fit as many boxes under it as I could and skirt off remainder to make it look symmetrical and finished. Might taper rear skirt/boxes. One of the other guys said for another job he had done front and back boxes then put a wheel well tub and plate to cover with cubby holes in the triangularish areas above the wheel tub for wheel chocks if you can picture that.
Last edited:
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I was partners in owning a truck equipment shop. We built so many flatbeds I couldn't begin to count. Some were awesome, most plain Jane. A few that had ideas the customer wanted, that I made them sign a waiver. The exhaust through a headache would be in the waiver dept. it could look cool, but protecting stacks would be better than having corrosive action in a structure IMO.
One supplier you all should look at before building one is http://flemingmetal.com Their website is not real good. You need to call them and see if they still mail out their paper catalog. Thier flatbed components for rails, crossmembers, stakes,etc. are top notch.
One person can easily handle all the parts to build a 20' flatbed alone, all welding can be done in one position until it's time mount the bed. Strong and lightweight.
When it comes to underbody boxes, my theory is mount the largest ones that you can fit, and filling in a body line with some sheet steel and a few braces always takes just another flatbed from plain to very nice quickly.
On back end my 2 preferences are either a classic semi truck style 3" channel iron ICC Dock bumper hanging flush from the back, mounted to the frame end for the simple look. Best is a sheet of 1/8" flush to back, come straight down a few inches then tapered in as a trapezoid, like in treegump's pic. Frame it in 2" square tubeing, only with the tubeing in front of the plate, not to the rear. People will try using it as a sep and slipping off. If you want it sticking out like his pic, it needs to be bigger than that, which gets in the way.
Recess the license by cutting a rectangle 2" wider than the plate, frame it 2" deep using the 1/8" plate. This lets you put the 2 plate lights (required by most states) on either side and all is fully protected. Even fancier looking is angling the plates all @ 45* like a picture frame, and no mud or water collects to rust.
Same goes for mounting 7pin connectors- don't let things get smashed by design, function always can look better if you take the time to trim it out.
D rings are always useful, but if time is taken to recess them in same manner it looks super custom, and you can work the rear of the truck without things in the way. Make sure you tie in to the frame with your d rings always. Usually they can be inline of supports to the hitch. If hanging below like in the pic, mount them directly to the hitch cross bar.
If you aren't always swapping draw bars, flush mount the hitch, your shins and everyone you know will thank you for the extra effort.
Buying a bolt on hitch and working around it is a good liability idea. Lawyers can take your lunch money if something goes wrong, usually someone rear ends you, and your hitch sticking out causes extra damage. If you bought it the lawer can't chase you. I've been pulled into court a few times and 2 things are questioned. Hitch and whatever cargo/material that they did not tie down good enough and went through the windshield injuring the occupants.
Tie downs- make it so easy to use, that you ALWAYS use them. If you have workers in your trucks- unsecured loads will end your business or worse. Take this one serious folks. I've watched a company doing over $10,000,000 a year in profit go down the tubes because there was not an easy way to tie down a 4' ladder and a 5 gallon bucket.
Headache rack- the biggest mistake I made is a common one. We always used 3/4-9 expanded metal IN FRONT of the rack welded at each junction. Looked clean, and strong. Until years later and the paint wears down. Then it's a rust dripping, unpaintable mess. Make it on a frame of flatbar that can unbolt from the rack. In 4-5 years you'll thank yourself for the extra effort. So will you window guy if one ever gets broken. I did one bed remove/ install every 3 months for glass companies. Think your upset at a $200 window, wait until you pay for that extra charge.
Always make your rack follow the body line of your pickup unless you want it to scream "generic commercial fleet bed".
If anyone has a paticular problem on design, ask. I might have done it before.
@schiker take some pics of your interior and what you carry. Pm if your worried about local thiefs seeing forum and recognizing your truck. There's always a solution. The truck owner finding the solution almost never happens, or they wouldn't need a solution. If nothing else my ideas might make you laugh.
One supplier you all should look at before building one is http://flemingmetal.com Their website is not real good. You need to call them and see if they still mail out their paper catalog. Thier flatbed components for rails, crossmembers, stakes,etc. are top notch.
One person can easily handle all the parts to build a 20' flatbed alone, all welding can be done in one position until it's time mount the bed. Strong and lightweight.
When it comes to underbody boxes, my theory is mount the largest ones that you can fit, and filling in a body line with some sheet steel and a few braces always takes just another flatbed from plain to very nice quickly.
On back end my 2 preferences are either a classic semi truck style 3" channel iron ICC Dock bumper hanging flush from the back, mounted to the frame end for the simple look. Best is a sheet of 1/8" flush to back, come straight down a few inches then tapered in as a trapezoid, like in treegump's pic. Frame it in 2" square tubeing, only with the tubeing in front of the plate, not to the rear. People will try using it as a sep and slipping off. If you want it sticking out like his pic, it needs to be bigger than that, which gets in the way.
Recess the license by cutting a rectangle 2" wider than the plate, frame it 2" deep using the 1/8" plate. This lets you put the 2 plate lights (required by most states) on either side and all is fully protected. Even fancier looking is angling the plates all @ 45* like a picture frame, and no mud or water collects to rust.
Same goes for mounting 7pin connectors- don't let things get smashed by design, function always can look better if you take the time to trim it out.
D rings are always useful, but if time is taken to recess them in same manner it looks super custom, and you can work the rear of the truck without things in the way. Make sure you tie in to the frame with your d rings always. Usually they can be inline of supports to the hitch. If hanging below like in the pic, mount them directly to the hitch cross bar.
If you aren't always swapping draw bars, flush mount the hitch, your shins and everyone you know will thank you for the extra effort.
Buying a bolt on hitch and working around it is a good liability idea. Lawyers can take your lunch money if something goes wrong, usually someone rear ends you, and your hitch sticking out causes extra damage. If you bought it the lawer can't chase you. I've been pulled into court a few times and 2 things are questioned. Hitch and whatever cargo/material that they did not tie down good enough and went through the windshield injuring the occupants.
Tie downs- make it so easy to use, that you ALWAYS use them. If you have workers in your trucks- unsecured loads will end your business or worse. Take this one serious folks. I've watched a company doing over $10,000,000 a year in profit go down the tubes because there was not an easy way to tie down a 4' ladder and a 5 gallon bucket.
Headache rack- the biggest mistake I made is a common one. We always used 3/4-9 expanded metal IN FRONT of the rack welded at each junction. Looked clean, and strong. Until years later and the paint wears down. Then it's a rust dripping, unpaintable mess. Make it on a frame of flatbar that can unbolt from the rack. In 4-5 years you'll thank yourself for the extra effort. So will you window guy if one ever gets broken. I did one bed remove/ install every 3 months for glass companies. Think your upset at a $200 window, wait until you pay for that extra charge.
Always make your rack follow the body line of your pickup unless you want it to scream "generic commercial fleet bed".
If anyone has a paticular problem on design, ask. I might have done it before.
@schiker take some pics of your interior and what you carry. Pm if your worried about local thiefs seeing forum and recognizing your truck. There's always a solution. The truck owner finding the solution almost never happens, or they wouldn't need a solution. If nothing else my ideas might make you laugh.
schiker
Well-Known Member
Basic stuff really not like a tote a bunch of tools around all the time. Mostly stuff I feel I need all the time. I'll post a pic when I get a chance. Its something I want to do but just haven't gotten to it. I still need to keep the back seat usable. I haven't measured but thinking some of the stackable tool boxes like the rigid stuff at The HomeDepot if they will fit flat. That way the kids could step on it and use it for a foot rest for the next few years until they have to fold up to sit back there (they are 8 and 7).
I carry a bunch of ratchet straps, some rope, and bungies, in a pillow case sack and use a tarp bungie to "bread tie" it shut. Kind of looks like a truckers santa claus sack. Its kind of ugly but keeps stuff from scattering. Its easy when I go to tie stuff down I just grab all of it and use what works best. I have a small socket set under my seat that slides out occasionally.
My tool bag has a basic code reader, DMM, a dial tire guage ( I don't use near enough to carry), and maybe a few other kind of delicate tools then a just a mix of hand tools. Other stuff is jumper cables, a heavy rope, billy club, big umbrella, some maps, my trailer hitch. Stuff that would go good in a truckbed tool box but I like to keep all the bed usable for weekly trips to the dump and general hauling at any given moment.
I have thought my next truck would be a flatbed with tool boxes under the bed. Maybe landscaper type body. I like aspects of the beds on the rental trucks at homedepot.
I carry a bunch of ratchet straps, some rope, and bungies, in a pillow case sack and use a tarp bungie to "bread tie" it shut. Kind of looks like a truckers santa claus sack. Its kind of ugly but keeps stuff from scattering. Its easy when I go to tie stuff down I just grab all of it and use what works best. I have a small socket set under my seat that slides out occasionally.
My tool bag has a basic code reader, DMM, a dial tire guage ( I don't use near enough to carry), and maybe a few other kind of delicate tools then a just a mix of hand tools. Other stuff is jumper cables, a heavy rope, billy club, big umbrella, some maps, my trailer hitch. Stuff that would go good in a truckbed tool box but I like to keep all the bed usable for weekly trips to the dump and general hauling at any given moment.
I have thought my next truck would be a flatbed with tool boxes under the bed. Maybe landscaper type body. I like aspects of the beds on the rental trucks at homedepot.
Attachments
schiker
Well-Known Member
Things I like about the landscaper bed and homedepot trucks are fold down sides for loading and if needed odd ball shaped stuff but able to haul loose material like mulch, dirt, etc. Removable sides would work ok too. I need more than a western hauler bed or just a flat bed. I sometimes canoe and made a rack out of 2x4 I slide in the bed to carry a canoe and tripper kayak. If I don't buy a welder in the next few years I am going to remake it out of unistrut or similar. So a removable piperack for canoe and or long lumber would be nice. Need something height adjustable as my caone has a tall front and rear curve.
A bed extender able to reconfigure to tilt up for rear pipe rack is something I want. Its overkill and time consuming to hook my gooseneck to go pick up a few pieces of long lumber or take my big extension ladder somewhere.
A bed extender able to reconfigure to tilt up for rear pipe rack is something I want. Its overkill and time consuming to hook my gooseneck to go pick up a few pieces of long lumber or take my big extension ladder somewhere.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
The stackable tool boxes are fairly tuff, my nephew uses 4 in his truck.