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First db2 6.5 questions

Loganshaw_6

Loganshaw_6

Member
Messages
69
Reaction score
63
Location
Stokesdale, north Carolina
It appears that something may potentially be wrong with my brain. Some may say it's not a bad thing others call me ridiculous but I just couldn't stay away from owning a 6.5. I picked up a running 1993 k3500 single cab 6.5 with an nv4500 209k miles about 2 weeks ago that I was told needed a flywheel by the previous owners. Starter grinds when you turn the key and I've determined that it needs a ring gear which I was going to replace today but got distracted with replacing fuel lines and wiring the lift pump to ignition power. Anyways the point of this post isn't about the transmission or flywheel but about the engine. It still starts it just requires 2 vehicles and a tow strap lol. I drove the truck before I purchased it and found that it would go about 40 mph wide open, smoked white and ran rough. My immediate assumptions were lift pump and possibly injectors. Handed the guy $1400 loaded it up on my trailer and took it home. So far I've done a new lift pump, fuel filter, air filter, rubber fuel lines to the drain valve and the IP, clear fuel line at the IP, and new batteries. I drove the truck to a buddy's house yesterday so we could put it on the lift today and pull the transmission to do the ring gear and noticed that the truck seemed to not have great power. The power came and went almost as if the lift pump wasn't working properly. I wired the lift pump to ignition power, replaced the hoses that I stated above earlier today and installed a boost gauge. About a minute into the test drive the problem came back. I parked it in the driveway opened the drain valve while the truck was running and the truck died. The lift pump was still running which is slightly confusing to me. The amount of fuel coming out of the hose seems kinda weak in my opinion which leads me to believe that maybe I have a clogged tank sock? clogged up lines from the tank to the filter? While replacing the fuel lines I did pull the fuel filter housing and clean it out I saw chunks of what looked to be crud and rust in it maybe, I should have blown out the fuel line but I was too eager to hear the truck run. I don't recall if the tank is metal or plastic in this truck but I'm thinking it needs to come out. The white smoke went away after making all these repairs until I was ready to shut the truck off and it began to stumble didn't want to idle well. To try to tie up this long post I'm wondering at what point should I consider replacing the db2? What is the lifespan out of one of these pumps? Obviously I'm going to make a turbo master and I'm going to want to turn up the pump as well. I'm thinking that I am going to end up throwing a set of injectors from Napa into this thing since I have a great commercial account and a fantastic hookup with them and I can get a set of reman injectors for $120 and a new set for I had my 98 6.5 and went through hell with it. Some of you probably remember but we got it running I'm just happy that I'm not messing with a DS4 truck this time.
 
dbrannon79 said:
sounds like a nice rig! spare us any photos? we all love some 6.5 truck porn lol. I believe @Will L. is the db2 man to talk to. he and others should chime in soon for what to check and all.
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Haha nice isn't quite the first word that comes to my mind when I describe the truck but it has a decently clean interior I suppose. I'll have to take some pictures tomorrow I'm hoping to have the transmission pulled then. Either way for $1,400 I suppose it's not too bad. It will be getting a paint job in the future since the bed doesn't match the cab lol. It was more of an impulse buy, I got into an accident with my Duramax about 2 weeks ago and insurance decided to Total it out and I'm having to fight them on value. I sold my other 6.5 and had been been thinking of purchasing another one so it seemed like the right time. Hoping to have a little bit more fun with this truck than the last one. Once insurance cuts me my check I'll definitely be going and buying another Duramax.
 
It seems to Me that You are on the right road.
When You get the new injectors, it might be a wise decision to get them tested, or, acquire an injector tester and test them Yourself. Make sure that they are holding pressure, not leaking down, spray pattern is good and that they pop at the recommended pressure and also that they are popping all within about 25 PSI of each other.
 
Sounds about like my truck! my hood was beginning to crease near the hinges so I repaired and greased the hinges then found a hood in perfect condition which had been modified with an old square body hood ornament with a price I couldn't refuse! got it installed and then primered the roof since there was a couple missing patches with surface rust. now my truck is beige with a blue hood, white roof and black trim. one day Ill paint it but for now it's multi-colored. I think looking like this helps deter the hoodlums from trying to break into it lol
 
MrMarty51 said:
It seems to Me that You are on the right road.
When You get the new injectors, it might be a wise decision to get them tested, or, acquire an injector tester and test them Yourself. Make sure that they are holding pressure, not leaking down, spray pattern is good and that they pop at the recommended pressure and also that they are popping all within about 25 PSI of each other.
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That was my thought. I've got a stanadyne authorized dealer local to me that I thought about taking them to. The injectors are made by echlin and supposedly they have a facility where they rebuild and test all of their equipment. They are pretty simple for injectors but at the same time since they're so simple I can't connect my scan tool and diagnose them so the only way to know is to physically test them. If the injectors test bad I can bring every single one back to Napa. I don't know the cost of testing them but I can't imagine it's too much.
 
You said clear ip return line- no bubbles? No contamination going through it?
get a fuel pressure gauge on the inlet of the ip. 5 psi. and obviously clean up the tank/lines.

Before you put the injectors in: get the new starter on there with new bad flywheel teeth wreck the starter teeth. Now wrecked starter teeth will ruin the new flywheel. Consider the powermaster 9052. -research it here or hummerforumnetwork.com if not familiar with it. Ac Delco bolts- nothing else kr you can get an odd fitment. Parts numbers are here somewhere. Make sure the front bracket is there also.
Next remove all 8 glowplugs. Run a compression test. It’s annoying but WAY better than guessing and maybe chasing 20 other problems and have to do this later anyways. New AC Delco 60g plugs and remember to put antisieze on the threads when they go in.

The white smoke can be either unburned diesel, or coolant(water). Smell tells the difference.
The fuel sounds contaminated- dump it. Consider it $100 part. Crap fuel can ruin so much it is amazing, not worth trying to save old fuel.

Get everything else in line and know exactly what you are dealing with before you buy a new ip.

Use spaces every few sentences- following your post is painfully hard.
 
Will L. said:
You said clear ip return line- no bubbles? No contamination going through it?
get a fuel pressure gauge on the inlet of the ip. 5 psi. and obviously clean up the tank/lines.

Before you put the injectors in: get the new starter on there with new bad flywheel teeth wreck the starter teeth. Now wrecked starter teeth will ruin the new flywheel. Consider the powermaster 9052. -research it here or hummerforumnetwork.com if not familiar with it. Ac Delco bolts- nothing else kr you can get an odd fitment. Parts numbers are here somewhere. Make sure the front bracket is there also.
Next remove all 8 glowplugs. Run a compression test. It’s annoying but WAY better than guessing and maybe chasing 20 other problems and have to do this later anyways. New AC Delco 60g plugs and remember to put antisieze on the threads when they go in.

The white smoke can be either unburned diesel, or coolant(water). Smell tells the difference.
The fuel sounds contaminated- dump it. Consider it $100 part. Crap fuel can ruin so much it is amazing, not worth trying to save old fuel.

Get everything else in line and know exactly what you are dealing with before you buy a new ip.

Use spaces every few sentences- following your post is painfully hard.
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New starter is in the floorboard along with ac Delco bolts a few other parts and a ring gear. I didn't seem to see any bubbles or contamination in the clear hose which I thought was odd I am doubting even having 5 PSI I haven't put a gauge on it yet it's currently at work but I'll probably grab tomorrow

The truck sat for about a year prior to me purchasing it I'm sure the fuel isn't good and I have no issues with swapping it out. I've got a decent pump that will do the job quickly. Doesn't appear to be a head gasket issue at this point coolant is clean oil is clean doesn't smell like it in the exhaust.

I know the glow plugs could use some attention. I do have I believe two of them unplugged currently as I forgot to plug them back in when I was messing with the starter. I do know that somebody has wired up and override switch for the glow plugs.
 
My suggestion is get a steel Tee and mount it directly to the ip, straight end to the original barb fitting. Use other for the pressure sensor. Don't do it in the rubber line where it can have bad hose create false readings. The cost of the fitting and gauge will pay for itself. As liftpump dies, pressure drops. Low pressure wears out ip faster and the aren’t cheap.

Thats what gm said is proper diagnostic anyway, and better you should know it allye time while driving.

You mentioned you replaced rubber fuel line- hope you got sae30r9. If not, you’ll need to swap it out for that in a few more years unfortunately.
 
Loganshaw_6 said:
That was my thought. I've got a stanadyne authorized dealer local to me that I thought about taking them to. The injectors are made by echlin and supposedly they have a facility where they rebuild and test all of their equipment. They are pretty simple for injectors but at the same time since they're so simple I can't connect my scan tool and diagnose them so the only way to know is to physically test them. If the injectors test bad I can bring every single one back to Napa. I don't know the cost of testing them but I can't imagine it's too much.
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Yes definitely have the Napa injectors pop tested anyway.I’ve seen brand new Bosch injectors for these stream fuel when pop tested and not the nice conical spray they should produce.I hope the Napa brand works out for you.I guess you’ll pick those up soon?
 
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The DB2 has gone through a few upgrades over the years and If you have an original pump there is a good chance its worn out in a few spots. The best way to tell is to measure return volume from the pump. The spec is 225-375cc/min at 2000rpm. If your return specs are high there is a good chance the pump is worn.

Stanadyne upgraded the H&R assembly for hot start issues in the late 90s. Then the latest pumps now come with a sleeve advance piston bore, ceramic rollers, and a hardened transfer pump to handle ULSD fuel. Fortunately all the latest upgrades can be done to an older pump to fix the common problems and give you a long lasting pump able to handle ULSD.

I wasn't trying to let this cat out of the bag yet... and I dont want to break any vendor rules.... But I'm REALLY close to being able to rebuild DB2s in house. Just finished up my test bench last week. Im just waiting on my backordered injector shims to arrive so I can build a set of injectors for the bench. I will be offering pumps and injectors from stock to full out race here very soon!! Im working on getting the LLC paperwork filed and I will be setting up as a vendor here on the forum really soon. Big things are right around the corner!!
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20220101_171538.jpg

Oh and I'm not rebuilding DS4s only DB2s incase anyone was wondering.
 
Rockabillyrat said:
The DB2 has gone through a few upgrades over the years and If you have an original pump there is a good chance its worn out in a few spots. The best way to tell is to measure return volume from the pump. The spec is 225-375cc/min at 2000rpm. If your return specs are high there is a good chance the pump is worn.

Stanadyne upgraded the H&R assembly for hot start issues in the late 90s. Then the latest pumps now come with a sleeve advance piston bore, ceramic rollers, and a hardened transfer pump to handle ULSD fuel. Fortunately all the latest upgrades can be done to an older pump to fix the common problems and give you a long lasting pump able to handle ULSD.

I wasn't trying to let this cat out of the bag yet... and I dont want to break any vendor rules.... But I'm REALLY close to being able to rebuild DB2s in house. Just finished up my test bench last week. Im just waiting on my backordered injector shims to arrive so I can build a set of injectors for the bench. I will be offering pumps and injectors from stock to full out race here very soon!! Im working on getting the LLC paperwork filed and I will be setting up as a vendor here on the forum really soon. Big things are right around the corner!!
View attachment 70024
View attachment 70025
View attachment 70026

Oh and I'm not rebuilding DS4s only DB2s incase anyone was wondering.
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Congratulations 👍🍻
 
The good news for you ds4 owners is you can still make the improvements and get your truck free of that evil S.

@Rockabillyrat
And since we don’t have a vendor here building db2/ db4 in house especially to requested specifications, so far as I have heard- and since you aren’t listing prices and such yet- can’t see how you telling you future plans breaks any rules.
 
MrMarty51 said:
@Rockabillyrat
On the like button, I tapped the sad face smiley only because You said You aint doing the DS4 pumps. 😹😹😹🐈💨😹
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As of now the dS4 is obsolete and stanadyne has stopped producing new pumps. Its only a matter of time before NOS parts run out. The cost of the tools to build and calibrate them just isn't worth the investment. I would like to set up to be a distributor for a DS4 rebuilder. But unfortunately I won't be doing them in house. The DB2 on the other had is under military contact. Parts are going to be available for a long time.
 
I'm dreading the day when I am forced to convert to a db2. not for the IP, but for all the modifications that would need to be dealt with from the gas pedal to getting the tranny to shift. wondering if there is a possibility to use the existing pcm with custom chip or have to redo all the wiring to install a tcm controller.
 
Easy button= aftermarket trans controller if using the 4l80e. Used to be everyone would swap to a tcm from van or older pickups, But those are hard to find now.

Get a pedal assembly from a 93 or older while they are still in junkyards. Currently probably get the whole assembly for under $20. If that option goes away get throttle pedal and cable from places like summit for any hotrod.
 
Will L. said:
Easy button= aftermarket trans controller if using the 4l80e. Used to be everyone would swap to a tcm from van or older pickups, But those are hard to find now.

Get a pedal assembly from a 93 or older while they are still in junkyards. Currently probably get the whole assembly for under $20. If that option goes away get throttle pedal and cable from places like summit for any hotrod.
Click to expand...
I wonder if a throttle assembly from a gasser truck would work. what about engine modifications like the timing marks on the cover and crank pulley to set time since it's no longer set by the pcm.
 
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