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finally scored a diesel Suburban!

I thought I scored at $1,400. I love it and will never get rid of it, even if I get another one.

I ran across a 94 2500 burb last week that was for sale, and by the time I got a hold of the owner it was gone.

These things go quick.I only got mine so cheap because the owner thought something was seriously wrong with it and the paint was coming off the hood.

Mine is the heavy half with 3.42 gears, only wish it were 2x4.

NICE SCORE ON YOUR PART.
 
Initial impressions:
Finally brought it home last night. It started on it's own, cranked slow but caught easy. Don't know about these new batteries, but the gauge reads 14 volts. Glow plug time seems long too. 4wd works, I brought a chain but after shoveling 2+ feet of snow off the top of it, it walked right out on it's own. Still love the sound of the motor. Takes one to know one, and I know my 97 smokes and sounds like a train wreck when it's cold. This one quieted down quick with no smoke. Really purrs. And power? Oh yes, it has power. It feels quicker than my 97, of course my 97 has been loaded for winter for months, so I can't remember how it felt empty. I don't think this stock Sub would have any trouble keeping up, and would probably be able to pass the 97. Maybe.
Rides awesome. I am so used to the clanging banging squeaky rattling old one tons, this literally felt like a new truck to me. Ride is phenomenal, even needing shocks, they still work I think. It is so quiet and smooth I felt like I was in a Cadillac. And you guys are right about the older seats being better, the 94 captains chairs are far more comfy than my 97s ever were.
I'm not a stereo freak, but it's got a pretty nice one for a factory radio. Speakers everywhere, some sort of a amp/equalizer I dont know how to work. Whatever, it sounds good. Heat works great, so far only things I've found that don't is the left rear window, it doesn't work from the drivers seat, havent tried it from the rear seat. Hatch has a power button on the dash to release it, that didnt seem to work either but the hatch might be locked or frozen, it was only about 10 last night. And the temp gauge does not work. Gotta fix that, since I know the thermostat housing had a leak. But housing wasnt leaking when I got home. So I'll order a new sender today, and I found some shocks I like at Advance, heavy duty with coil-over overloads. Ought to help with pulling the camper.
Did I mention how enjoyable it is to drive? I was in 7th heaven last night. Can't wait to take it out again today. I'm going to try to take it to work and bring it inside to wash it, so I can get some pics. Today will be the first time I've actually seen it in daylight and without 2 feet of snow on top of it, so I hope it looks respectable and shines up ok.
I feel like I should get arrested, because I STOLE this thing!
Stand by for pictures.
 
Somebody call the law, we have a thief amongst us.

The thing I hate about my 94 is the heater controls. If they could be easily switched I would either go back to controls like the 89 had or ahead to the 95 and newer style controls.

Other than that I have always liked the 94 style dash.

You have to get a snap on the dash cup holder that works from 88-94 they're awesome.
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?...es&_trksid=m194&ssPageName=STRK:MEFSRCHX:SRCH

I also do not care for the controls for the electric seat. They are hard to reach being on the front of the seat and I can never remember which way is which. Which wouldn't be an issue in everybody would just leave my seat alone and not move it. They say they can't reach the clutch pedal without moving the seat. Is that really reason enough to move my seat?
 
Do what I did with mine...Leave it stock. I have not had one lick of trouble from my Burb. It pulls fine the way it is. The 94-94's have a little longer glow time IIRC. My 95 did and they don't seems to start as good but maybe that was a worn IP on my end. Told you you'd like the seats. Where the pics at ??? Other than exhuast and cooling system cleaning upgrade, I'd leave it alone. Everyone of these I ever "tuned" ended up with overheating problems. Just my experience. My burb runs like it rolled off the showroom floor. If you run into a jam, I have GMTDScan.
 
I'm glad it's running well for you Dan.

That starter might need new brushes. Check out that starter sticky of Bison's
 
I love my captain seat too. Does it have the stock vacuum setup for the turbo, it works well when its working. They do great empty, but if it really is a stock PCM EPROM youll run into trouble towing. If the glow time is excessively long it likely has an aftermarket EPROM already. Although, having 8 working glows and weak batts will pull down to the 10V area and that will be more glow time than glows that are not actually working to pull the voltage down on a good battery. The glow time is related to voltage and temperature. So if its covered with snow and low batts, you are looking at 15-20 seconds stock. Glow time drops quite a bit if it can maintain 11.5V from bad glows not pulling a load or healthy batts that were recently charged to 14V by the alternator.
 
What color interior?

Edit. Just read your first post again and see the oak color int. Im looking for a 93-94 with red int.
 
Hell ya bro... Now that's a gal I could fall in love with......... Sweet!! I'm excited now!

Its got that secret services toughness look to it. We know you're going to do her nice!
 
Haha, Secret Service, I like that. Fiddled with a couple things today in between raking and shoveling 4 million cubic feet of snow off the roof. I got the left rear window motor to come alive just enough to shut the window tightly, but I think the motor is junk, it sounds sick. Windshield leaks bad right over the steering wheel, so I got some permatex windshield sealer and gooped it up. Temp gauge doesnt work, so I replaced the sender, still doesnt work. I feel a faint clunk when I leave a standing stop, doesnt feel or sound like a u-joint. Almost like when theres something rolling around loose in the trunk of a car. No idea what it is, but its probably the rearend getting ready to fall out. And it feels like theres a little warp to a rotor, its got a shaking when you brake to a stop.
Drives nice as hell though, wheels straight and no weird noises when you hit bumps. In the light of day the paint looks like a 94, still clean and shiny but up close theres a few places, like around the rear fender flares, where the original paint is flaking and peeling. I'll just touch it up for now to keep the rust at bay.
It's got a massive receiver hitch on the back, beefier looking than my duallys. And bonus score: big adjustable pintle hitch drawbar left in it. The kind with a hitch ball. That's gotta be $150 right there.
I put $30 in it and got less than a half a tank, drove all over and only went down a little, so it seems like it's a huge tank and not bad on fuel. My 454 used over a half a tank for about the same trip last week. But 7.5 mpg seems even worse with a 20 gallon tank.
 
Also, glove box says gt4 so 3.73, that's ok with me. And it is without question a full floater, I know this because it's missing a *$&^*& rear center cap. And trim ring.
Doesnt a full floater seem like ridiculous overkill for a suburban? I dont think you could even get enough weight over the rear wheels to need that kind of support strength. But hey, I'll take it, if that's what they want to put in it.
 
What sounds sick about the motor? rattling? pinging? does it sounds stressed on acceleration? You have to realize youve had the ATT on the other a while and it makes a big difference in how it sounds while acclerating and going into higher RPMs. That and the injection timing and shift points may be quite different. If you pop out the PCM you could see if it still has a stock chip in it or something aftermarket.

whats the blowby like? oil level and type?
 
buddy said:
What sounds sick about the motor? rattling? pinging? does it sounds stressed on acceleration? You have to realize youve had the ATT on the other a while and it makes a big difference in how it sounds while acclerating and going into higher RPMs. That and the injection timing and shift points may be quite different. If you pop out the PCM you could see if it still has a stock chip in it or something aftermarket.

whats the blowby like? oil level and type?
Click to expand...

I think the sick motor he was talking about was the window motor.
 
Detroit Dan said:
Also, glove box says gt4 so 3.73, that's ok with me. And it is without question a full floater, I know this because it's missing a *$&^*& rear center cap. And trim ring.
Doesnt a full floater seem like ridiculous overkill for a suburban? I dont think you could even get enough weight over the rear wheels to need that kind of support strength. But hey, I'll take it, if that's what they want to put in it.
Click to expand...

You know what else seems like ridiculous overkill? I was just at a pick-n-pull last week and found a 94 K2500 Suburban. Looking at the rear brakes I found out that they were the 3.5" wide shoes, as in 1 ton! I went home and checked on Rockauto and it appears that some of the HD Subs had that for rear brakes. That intrigued me so I went back the next day to make sure I wasn't dreaming. When I first spotted the 94 Sub there were some stock wheel spacers (maybe 1.5" thick) on the drums. Well, they were gone just one day later so I made a snap decision to take a chance on all the parts being a bolt on swap to my K2500 pickup FF axle.

Seeing 1 ton rear brakes on a Suburban really floored me.

Now, since you found you have a FF rear I'm curious as to what size rear brakes you have. Do you also have the stock wheel spacers?

Don
 
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