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External oil cooler vs internal rad one....

Laugh Ace I got a buddy that does Carriage rides for hire and he tows a team of them big Belgium draft horses in a trailer with the Viv a Vis carriage loaded on the truck. We farm boys call that a two ton truck! LOL He says it does great, has a hole cut in the bed of the truck to take his gooseneck with the ball way down in there!
 
I'm with Kenny, as far as I know the 98 pumps are balanced also, just four bolt flange instead of a threaded hub for fan clutch. I wish someone would measure them side by side.

My 93, I had temp gauges in the rear of each head, with the stock pump there was 20-45ºF hotter temps on the right bank, with the 98 pump they usually ran within 5º of each other, empty the right bank usually ran 5º cooler than the left, loaded the right was slightly hotter.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/vbpicgallery.php?do=big&p=69110

The 98 pumps was one of the best mods I made to my old 6.5's. My 92 since new towing my 24' stock trailer, you could make the temp gauge rise as quick as a pyrometer on hills, after the 98 pump you really had to push it hard to get it above 210º. I always ran mine to 210 and still will, after that I would start backing off the go pedal accordingly. Dont be afraid of 210, after that when you need to start worrying. 220 is not that hot if your not working it hard, but it is when your EGT's are 900º.

I have a theory on fuel mileage, I think these HO pumps cost mileage from two ways, first they take alot more power to turn and they cut thermal efficiency from the engine by putting your fuel through the radiator instead of to the ground. I love the HO pump, but think its not needed so much on a daily driver grocery getter, if towing definitely get the HO.

If I was buying a fan clutch, I'd get one you could put the D-max blade on, that sucker moves some serious air. My 04, you can walk in front of the the grill with it idling and it will pull your shirt to the grill.
 
The 97/98 high output pumps are not so much flow balanced as they are higher pressure, to allow more flow to both sides making it adequate on the passenger side. According to Heath's published testing that is.
 
What T stats you running?.....180* RobertShaw's wouldn't hurt...

And the 2 different rad sizes are because of the aftermarket industry....When I needed to replace mine I located BOTH sizes, and I ended up buying Spectre "Premium" or Visteon (sp) to get the bigger size, you'll find a price difference between the two.....This was my experience anyway.
 
midniteplowboyy said:
My 93, I had temp gauges in the rear of each head, with the stock pump there was 20-45ºF hotter temps on the right bank, with the 98 pump they usually ran within 5º of each other, empty the right bank usually ran 5º cooler than the left, loaded the right was slightly hotter.
Click to expand...

With the temp probe on the back of the head did you see any major temp discrepancy between the aftermarket and the stock gauges? I put my aftermarket temp probe in the pass head blockoff plate and have seen a lot of difference as far as temp is concerned. Under normal easy driving the temps back there are always way cooler. Towing or hauling a load the temps will slowly come up to match the stock gauge. I do have the 2000 balanced flow pump and 02 DMax blade.

Don
 
A good experiment would be to test the accuracy of guage on the drivers side to, to see if the gauge in the dash in similar to an aftermarket on installed at the rear of the drivers side.

I noticed the fan wash on my Dmax fan is primarily to the passenger side, where it would could keep some of that turbo and AC compressor heat out of the engine until it starts to get toasty in there.
 
well my Hayden 2840 got here today so this is good. the JK clutch will be here Thursday and Friday is supposed to be 105 so good test weather. So the JK clutch will go on first. If I am unhappy I can always swap the 99+ WP and Hayden to the Burb that I bought for the 93 and recycle the 98 WP and JK to the 93. If if none of that works, FOR SALE...:D
 
Well I have been mulling this over and perhaps it's not fair to condemn the copper rad just yet as I took the burb for a ride(not tow) and temps climbed pretty fast. Perhaps comparing to past results wasn't accurate as it was cooler out when I towed with the aluminum one. I'll know by Friday as the JK Clutch will be here tommorow. So far the only bitch about the JK clutch I hear is it works too good so with heat index of 111f friday we'll see just how good. I'm going for a tow..
IN the interim I will put the rest of the stuff including the brass rad in the 93 and see how that works out. Heck I got a 2 1/8 thick 3 core brass sitting here as well. If time aloowed I should have tried that as well.
 
My Kennedy Fan came a day early. I ordered it Sunday so I am already impressed with customer service. According to UPS it wasn't supposed to be here tomorrow. I put it on already(pics in a bit). I can hear it running a little bit while at about 170 like it's partially engaged but it's new and as the motor warmed up a little less as well but definitely more than the stock one. Is it running too much ?? I don't think so but the real test will be tomorrow when I throw that camper on the back. It will be 105f heat index. Either it will keep cool, or be on Ebay by this time tomorrow night cause I got a line on an '03 Cummins and an 02 Excursion so it has one last chance to save itself....
 
handcannon said:
With the temp probe on the back of the head did you see any major temp discrepancy between the aftermarket and the stock gauges? I put my aftermarket temp probe in the pass head blockoff plate and have seen a lot of difference as far as temp is concerned. Under normal easy driving the temps back there are always way cooler. Towing or hauling a load the temps will slowly come up to match the stock gauge. I do have the 2000 balanced flow pump and 02 DMax blade.

Don
Click to expand...

Yes, there were big differences from gauge locations, just how a water cooled multi cylinder engine works, the rear water hasn't picked up as much heat yet that the front sensor is seeing after the coolant has moved forward past three cylinders. Front to back temps were closer together with the low output pump, but all temps were higher, especially right rear.

With the 98 HO pump, usually 150-160º on the rear, 195-205º stock gauge. On cold days I've seen like 120-230º rear to front spread, really getting on it for 10-15 seconds or so. I never got to try my dual stat setup on that truck to see if they would flow more than the single AC/delco 195º stat, it still seemed like it needed more flow through the block.


Buddy,
I can check/compare the stock gauge by letting the engine idle about 5mins after its been driven some. All gauges will read about the same after its idled awhile with most of the coolant just being recirculated through the block.
 
midniteplowboyy said:
Yes, there were big differences from gauge locations, just how a water cooled multi cylinder engine works, the rear water hasn't picked up as much heat yet that the front sensor is seeing after the coolant has moved forward past three cylinders. Front to back temps were closer together with the low output pump, but all temps were higher, especially right rear.

With the 98 HO pump, usually 150-160º on the rear, 195-205º stock gauge. On cold days I've seen like 120-230º rear to front spread, really getting on it for 10-15 seconds or so. I never got to try my dual stat setup on that truck to see if they would flow more than the single AC/delco 195º stat, it still seemed like it needed more flow through the block.
Click to expand...

What you are stating is what I had theorized about the temps. Good to know that what I'm seeing is common. Thank you for your reply.

I do have the dual thermo crossover, but no way to be able to compare to a single thermo. Would be interesting though what the difference might be. It would be interesting also to compare the low output pump to HO, to balanced flow pump.

Don
 
ok, so the suburban's current layout is:
kennedy clutch
duramax fan
OEM High output waterpump with 4 bolt flange, (NOT High Output balance flow-thread on water pump)
OEM dual thermostat housing
OEM aluminum & plastic radiator
(insert t-stat brand here) thermostats.

would you be appalled by the appearance if you added an airdam? I still am curious as to if my theory of adding an airdam will improve cooling.

future layout for 93 K2500(HD) is???
 
The 93 is getting the 600$ copper rad( I got to do something with it and it is the factory rad for that truck) 99+ Hub WP, Hayden 2840 SD Cluch and the 9 blade steel from the Burb. It currently has factory 6 blade, small WP and 1 1/4 inch Alum rad so it will be better and I don't tow with it anyway. Basically recycling the stuff from the burb save for the WP and clutch.
 
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