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External oil cooler vs internal rad one....

could probably offload that rad to someone with a gasser GMT-400. I'm sure it'd cool one of those just fine.

There's got to be something wrong, but i can't blame you for getting sick of working on these trucks. I was at the breaking point with my K-5, but i know at the same time no one would buy a TD with a stick. Most people don't know how to drive stick anymore, never mind a diesel with fuel prices.

I couldn't scrap it after going to the junkyards so much and seeing the vehicles in the yard basically get raped and destroyed. Not after all the blood and sweat i've put into it.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Here is the truck the rad came out of. All I did was recore it. It was the factory rad and was 4 core. That is why I don't get it.
http://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/2466552787.html
Click to expand...

any chance the rows in the fresh core are smaller that before it was re-cored? Just because it's a 4 row doesn't mean anything if the rows are so small they end up restricting flow.

Now i'd think the rows in the diesel rads would be larger since the diesels need a ton of flow to keep cool versus a gasser.
 
I agree with the "should not get worse" statement. how reputable was this radiator shop again?

c'mon kenny, if you didnt have bad luck you wouldnt have any at all. I bet once you get that excursion, the damn ford automatic will go out! go out to the suburban and listen to the 6.5L rattle..it soothes! :)

btw, how do you drive, and what is the traffic like back there? I cant get any of my shit to go over 200 unless there is a trailer in tow, so I am curious as to how you can get stuff to overheat running empty.

Sure sucks that you have such bad luck with these ol 6.5Ls, hopefully they will behave reeaaallly quick, as we will miss the commentary if you go to powerstrokenation.
 
Ironically my 93 runs great but it's useless for towing. I'm a little less pissed this am. I'm gonna clean the alum rad that came out and put it back in. The fan clutch is now junk since I did the mod to it so I need a new one. I think I'm gonna get Kennedys. That truck has the high flow 4 bolt WP. It wasn't that bad before I did this. it was borderline. I should have just done the clutch.
 
Just get a Hayden and a 21" Blade.....I bought a Kennedy clutch and was VERY dissapointed with it, so was Tim and many others who got tired of the lock up NEVER disengauging.....Kenny I tried EVERY combo except Heaths, as long as you have a working fan clutch and the D-Max Blade, things should stay cool.

I HATED the Kennedy clutch and not to mention the price is almost twice what any other clutch cost....and John is.....well lets just leave it at that.
 
too late, I ordered it this am. I had the hayden one. It did not lock up any better than factory. Truck still hit 215-220 before it came on. I did a marathon swap this am and put the aluminum rad back in. The truck doesn't seem any different. It was getting hot just as it did yesterday although I did not try the camper. I think maybe the brass rad is fine and this stupid fan clutch that I tried to modify is now junk so we'll see how J/K's works. Since I seem to have the opposite results as pretty much everyone else maybe that is what I need.
 
Acesneights1 said:
The fan clutch is now junk since I did the mod to it so I need a new one.
Click to expand...

How did you do the mod? Did you increase or decrease the length of the tang on the spring?

On the fan clutch that I did the mod to I was able to very carefully re-bend the tang on the spring a second time since the metal is soft.

Don
 
Acesneights1 said:
Picture worth 1000 words....I made it about 1/8 shorter, maybe 3/16.
Click to expand...

Thanks!! Yup, picture is worth a thousand words.

I was curious since I did the mod to a new Hayden SD clutch last summer, with poor results. I even took the spring off my old clutch and put on the Hayden and did more mods to see if I could get the fan to come on. I could never get the fan to come on so I replaced the stock spring and returned the Hayden. I replaced it with Heaths' clutch, which worked fine for me last fall during hunting season (cooler weather).

IF we ever get any summer here so I can test the Heath clutch we have two family reunions to tow our trailer to coming up in early August. We've had maybe two or three days over 80* so far. Rain went through most of June and we've had rain four out of the last seven days with daytime temps in the low 70s and nights in the low 40s. Last week my kids were bucking hay for my father-in-law (up to the mid 80s) and got the last load in late in the evening just before the rain hit. He had early morning temps as low as 34* last week out at his place (foothills of the Cascade Mts). A very unusual summer for this area. We are usually dry from early to mid June on through to Labor Day weekend. GLOBAL WARMING!!!

Don
 
Well that makes me feel better. So it basically is a dud. Now I am more confident the Kennedy clutch will help. I had the heath, it made no difference at all. In their defense Bill suspected I may have had a dud and sent me another one but I sold the truck as it got here so I returned it to him and never got to try it.

I read J/K's writeup on his site about his calibration and I gotta say what he says makes sense to me and the fact that the only complaints about it are that it works tooo good . I'd rather deal with that then not working at all.

I wish someone would make an electric clutch for these trucks It would solve so many problems. Viscous clutch suck ass anyway. Why do you think real diesel class 8's use Air or electric clutchs. The HMMV's use hydraulic AFAIK so that's gotta tell you something.
I approached Horton about making them and they were not interested. She said look through the book, they make a million different ones and maybe I could find one to work but the catalog was tremendous.

MGW posted about doing it with a Powerstroke one but she never provided prts #s and I don't know which one she meant. I have an old PS WP I have been saving for that reason and my old 99+ WP for experimentation if I could ever figure it out.
 
Kenny, I don't know what to say about your luck. My truck always ran at about 210 up until the hg blew. After putting on new heads, +.01 gaskets, studs, and the dmax fan/hayden hd clutch (modified btw) the truck WILL NOT get over about 190 at most. And that's with the gl4 tune. Only have to worry about high egts.
 
Kenny, why not try and reverse your mod and see if there is any difference?
 
I read J/K's writeup on his site about his calibration and I gotta say what he says makes sense to me and the fact that the only complaints about it are that it works tooo good . I'd rather deal with that then not working at all.
Click to expand...

I hope that is the case......But just for prosperity's sake, when the KD clutch comes, bolt the 20" steel to it first and see what your cooling does....Then when it doesn't make a difference at ALL, Bolt up the D-Max blade and tell me how that keeps temps in check.....

I doubt you'll have no different results than I had, but JOHN was too cheap and arrogant to send me another.:BDH:

I hope it all works like you plan it too, but I was already at that party, bought the ticket and the T-Shirt......Just remember, it's the BLADE, not the CLUTCH.....You heard it here first!
 
The talk about how airflow sucks through the rad, how paveltolz had such good luck providing an outlet for air with his cool louvers, etc. I feel that there is obviously a flow problem through the radiator, aka, an adequate amount of air gets in, but it cant get out.

I feel that this is due to under-engine air pressure, caused by air coming under the bumper, and making a high pressure pocket, not allowing air to flow through the engine compartment efficiently. I dont seem to have horrible issues with my 2wds loaded heavy, but I partially contribute that to the "rake" keeping the nose down, and therefore the bumper lower, and with the overall low ride height of a 2wd with stock rubber, I feel I just have a smaller pocket under the truck. I know it is a little apples oranges, manual 2wd vs auto 4wd as far as cooling, but I do feel that ride height and rake does make a difference.

I would be willing to guess that adding an airdam would allow the air to go around, rather than under, effectively lowering the under vehicle pressure enough to encourage more airflow through the engine compartment, along with a boost in mpgs due to the improved aerodynamics, and if you have an agressive fan maybe as a side affect, it may stay disengaged, therefore better mpgs.

I feel that the air pocket may have discussed before on this forum, but I am not sure, so I figured I would bring light to the topic! :)

now how this affects aces, there is no way an airdam will help that lifted 93, but I feel that it would help the suburban, due to the stock suspension.
 
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Brooklyn Tow said:
I hope that is the case......But just for prosperity's sake, when the KD clutch comes, bolt the 20" steel to it first and see what your cooling does....Then when it doesn't make a difference at ALL, Bolt up the D-Max blade and tell me how that keeps temps in check.....

I doubt you'll have no different results than I had, but JOHN was too cheap and arrogant to send me another.:BDH:

I hope it all works like you plan it too, but I was already at that party, bought the ticket and the T-Shirt......Just remember, it's the BLADE, not the CLUTCH.....You heard it here first!
Click to expand...
I am using the dmax blade. it's currently installed on the broken clutch.
 
NVW said:
Kenny, why not try and reverse your mod and see if there is any difference?
Click to expand...

To be honest Leo, I'm just plain disgusted with it and will just wait for the KD clutch. That will be the last straw. I have 2 for sale signs ready to go and I am looking at a 3rd Gen Cummins tommorow. I's a shame because I reeally have always be a GM man but between the cooling issues, The a/c crapping out the vibration I can't seem to find, I have about had it with this douchebag. Sadly my 93 runs mint but it's useless except for a toy. I could lower it back down but without an EC it's not much use to the family. Dmax's are just too damn expensive. The only ones I can find reasonable are the LB7s and those were the troublesome ones from what I have read and they look real ugly to work on. Any thing newer than 03 in Dmax is just off the hook in price. I suppose that is because they are so good but outta my price range. I found a 3rd gen cummins 2500 4 door for 11k. Also found an Excursion for 9k with a 7.3 stroke..so I'm looking around.
 
Acesneights1 said:
To be honest Leo, I'm just plain disgusted with it and will just wait for the KD clutch. That will be the last straw. I have 2 for sale signs ready to go and I am looking at a 3rd Gen Cummins tommorow. I's a shame because I reeally have always be a GM man but between the cooling issues, The a/c crapping out the vibration I can't seem to find, I have about had it with this douchebag. Sadly my 93 runs mint but it's useless except for a toy. I could lower it back down but without an EC it's not much use to the family. Dmax's are just too damn expensive. The only ones I can find reasonable are the LB7s and those were the troublesome ones from what I have read and they look real ugly to work on. Any thing newer than 03 in Dmax is just off the hook in price. I suppose that is because they are so good but outta my price range. I found a 3rd gen cummins 2500 4 door for 11k. Also found an Excursion for 9k with a 7.3 stroke..so I'm looking around.
Click to expand...

I can find Duramax's around here for that price. There is a 2003 C3500 CC Dually LT fully decked out with 214K for $12,995.
 
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