docdray
Oompa Loompa
anyone have any advice/preference for which one to replace with. have an 87 sea-ray a bow rider, 5.7 inboard. wanting to do preventative maintenance so i dont go swimming in the boat.
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exhaust tube or bellows
- Thread starter docdray
- Start date
Fuelman
New Member
replace both, if your exhaust bellows splits it will blow hot exhaust onto the drive shaft bellows, burn a hole in it then you will be swimming. The bellows usually last about 5 years.
docdray
Oompa Loompa
well, my understanding is using a tube, all exhaust will not go through outdrive and with bellows it will. I am planning to replace all, but does the tube function better or is the bellows the best. it also matters on ease of installation as I have not done this b4, only worked on outboards. thanks
Fuelman
New Member
If you run your exhaust through the transom and above the water line, it will sound great and your bellows will last longer. My boat has a 350 chevy with the exhaust out the transom, sounds great and turns heads.
DennisG01
Member
If you end up doing a through-transom exhaust, be sure to check into your local sound (dB) laws. You might need silencer tips. The through-transom will (obviously) involve more work and more parts. A quality bellows can last quite a while. Yes, the general rule of thumb is to replace avery 3 to 5 years, but in reality, it will more than likely last at least twice that long. I work at a Sea Ray dealership - can't remember the last time a bellows needed to be replaced after only a few years.
If you go the straight through exhaust route, you have some options, as well. You could install a system (typically called "Captains Choice") that has a diverter in the flow. At the flip of a switch, you can direct the exhuast either through the hub (quieter) or straight through (louder). There are also automatic versions of this system as some states have laws against the use of the manual switch.
Be sure you have the room in your bilge and at your transom to install everything. You didn't say what size Ray, but I'm guessing about 21'? Another, slightly more complex, option (again if you have the room) is a side exiting exhaust.
If you go the straight through exhaust route, you have some options, as well. You could install a system (typically called "Captains Choice") that has a diverter in the flow. At the flip of a switch, you can direct the exhuast either through the hub (quieter) or straight through (louder). There are also automatic versions of this system as some states have laws against the use of the manual switch.
Be sure you have the room in your bilge and at your transom to install everything. You didn't say what size Ray, but I'm guessing about 21'? Another, slightly more complex, option (again if you have the room) is a side exiting exhaust.
Last edited:
DennisG01
Member
Here's some good PM I've come across over the years for the bellows (and related) hoses.
-- If you're a trailer boater, spray the various hoses in there with a good protectant such as 303 every so often. It will help to preserve the life of the rubber. Just spray it on liberally - no need to try and wipe it off.
-- Again, if you're a trailer boater - when it's on the trailer, store the drive in the down position - that way the hoses aren't constantly under tension from being stretched out. PUT A NOTE ON THE COUPLER AND/OR TONGUE JACK TO REMIND YOU TO RAISE THE DRIVE BEFORE HOOKING UP.
-- Overall, just keep an eye on it. It should be soft and pliable when you poke at it. Tiny little cracks are OK, but you should start to think about replacing - just keep a closer eye on things (if your boat stays in the water, you will want to replace them sooner than a trailer boater will - a trailer boater may very well be able to wait until at least the end of the season). Deeper cracks, not-so-soft rubber or a "glazed" look to the rubber are your signs to replace ASAP.
And, if you're going to replace one of the hoses, do them all while you're in there.
-- If you're a trailer boater, spray the various hoses in there with a good protectant such as 303 every so often. It will help to preserve the life of the rubber. Just spray it on liberally - no need to try and wipe it off.
-- Again, if you're a trailer boater - when it's on the trailer, store the drive in the down position - that way the hoses aren't constantly under tension from being stretched out. PUT A NOTE ON THE COUPLER AND/OR TONGUE JACK TO REMIND YOU TO RAISE THE DRIVE BEFORE HOOKING UP.
-- Overall, just keep an eye on it. It should be soft and pliable when you poke at it. Tiny little cracks are OK, but you should start to think about replacing - just keep a closer eye on things (if your boat stays in the water, you will want to replace them sooner than a trailer boater will - a trailer boater may very well be able to wait until at least the end of the season). Deeper cracks, not-so-soft rubber or a "glazed" look to the rubber are your signs to replace ASAP.
And, if you're going to replace one of the hoses, do them all while you're in there.
docdray
Oompa Loompa
didn't think about stress with od up, great point. 23 foot 350:Chevy_anim: My main concern on is overall stress on every part, then performance. It sounds like the tubes are way easier to install and basically no negative effects except noise.
DennisG01
Member
Actually, to install straight pipes, your going to have to pull the engine to get at the y-pipe. A "captain's call" can be installed w/o pulling, but also costs more. "Captain's call" may also be illegal. It is in PA. A way around that is the automatic version - for example, Corsa calls it "Quick & Quiet II".
By the way, if you happen to get a tear in the exhaust bellows, it really doesn't matter. Water is not going to back-up in and over the risers. Now, the bellows for the drive shaft or shift cables... that's another story: glug, glug, glug... :ugh:
There's really no way to eliminate having to periodically replace the bellows.
Installing the pipes is not as easy as it might sound - especially on boats that weren't designed for it. Not a whole lot of space in there.
If you have any plans on selling your Ray, just replace the various bellows and be done with it. Besides, it'll give you a chance to check your shaft alignment at the same time. Adding through-hull exhaust won't make your boat resell at a higher price - not on this type of boat. You'll end up losing money.
Not trying to discourage anyone (personally I love having a switch), just don't want to see you get hopes up and then find out it's not realistic.
But hey, you got a nice boat there! 1987 - even way back then, the Sea Ray's look better than a lot of other manufacturer's new stuff! Is this your boat?:
http://www.searay.com/Archives_Manuals/Sea_Ray_Archives/1987/26 feet and below/23Sorrento.pdf
By the way, if you happen to get a tear in the exhaust bellows, it really doesn't matter. Water is not going to back-up in and over the risers. Now, the bellows for the drive shaft or shift cables... that's another story: glug, glug, glug... :ugh:
There's really no way to eliminate having to periodically replace the bellows.
Installing the pipes is not as easy as it might sound - especially on boats that weren't designed for it. Not a whole lot of space in there.
If you have any plans on selling your Ray, just replace the various bellows and be done with it. Besides, it'll give you a chance to check your shaft alignment at the same time. Adding through-hull exhaust won't make your boat resell at a higher price - not on this type of boat. You'll end up losing money.
Not trying to discourage anyone (personally I love having a switch), just don't want to see you get hopes up and then find out it's not realistic.
But hey, you got a nice boat there! 1987 - even way back then, the Sea Ray's look better than a lot of other manufacturer's new stuff! Is this your boat?:
http://www.searay.com/Archives_Manuals/Sea_Ray_Archives/1987/26 feet and below/23Sorrento.pdf
docdray
Oompa Loompa
thats my baby, however I am looking at a 12' john boat w/ 5 hp--for creeks. and could double as a dinghy, when I feel like playing like I got money. so, its probably best to keep same exhaust setup then. BTW, crappie hitting good this last week.
- Staff
- #10
Another point to keep in mind in the tube VS bellows for the exhaust is the installation tool. If you go with a bellows you must have the tool to install it, if you go with just the short tube you don't need the tool. Also pay VERY close attention to the placement of the hose clamps, AND get a manual to show you proper placem,ent before replacing them. I worked on one where the clamps were put in just the wrong spot and it cracked the bellhousing assembly
. And pay EXTRA close attention to the shift bellows, it is a very critical fit as a 1/2" off and it will tear right away(don't ask me how I know this one). And it WILL let in enough water to sink you in a few hours(again, don't ask).
. And pay EXTRA close attention to the shift bellows, it is a very critical fit as a 1/2" off and it will tear right away(don't ask me how I know this one). And it WILL let in enough water to sink you in a few hours(again, don't ask).