engine dies - throws codes - what do they mean?

[gahammerle]

Wife was driving truck today and it died on her. She said Service Engine Soon light came on. She restarted a few minutes later and drove it a bit, said it sounded funny. It died a couple other times on her too. She was able to make it home. I got home from work and hooked up GMTD ScanTech to it and it showed some codes. Here's the history as I read the codes a few times while it was running in the driveway - it died on me a few times during this process as well.

First reading:

Current: none
History: 19 - Crankshaft position reference error
18 - Pump cam reference pulse error
35 - injection pulse width error (response time short)
54 - pcm fuel circuit error

I cleared the codes and ran a bit and then checked again.
Current:
18 - Pump cam reference pulse error
54 - pcm fuel circuit error

Historic:
18 - Pump cam reference pulse error
35 - injection pulse width error (response time short)
54 - pcm fuel circuit error


Cleared the codes again and ran it then read them again.

Current: none
Historic: 18 - Pump cam reference pulse error

Any ideas?

 

[BigBlueChevy]

Wife was driving truck today

Found your problem already.


Sorry, couldn't resist.



Go ahead and fill out the checklist to the best of your capabillities and post it here so we can better help you. Off the batt stalling can be asscociated with poor grounding, weak and tired IP, lift pump, clogged sock and/or fuel filter.
I just realized that you have a Heath PMD, so check your grounds first while doing the checklist. Wire brush the hell out of them, coat it in anti-ox and retighten them again

 

[gahammerle]

Found your problem already.


Sorry, couldn't resist.

I do get nervous when she drives it.

Go ahead and fill out the checklist to the best of your capabillities and post it here so we can better help you. Off the batt stalling can be asscociated with poor grounding, weak and tired IP, lift pump, clogged sock and/or fuel filter.
I just realized that you have a Heath PMD, so check your grounds first while doing the checklist. Wire brush the hell out of them, coat it in anti-ox and retighten them again

Thanks, will check grounds and fill out checklist later - gotta take the kids to soccer practice.

Thankfully it happened today. We just took the truck to Pigeon Forge last week - 700 miles round trip - and it ran great even up the mountain into Tennessee. Probably was only at 1/3 throttle doing 70+ on the way up the hill.

 

[BigBlueChevy]

when was the last time you changed your fuel filter? Could be plugged up, or it could even be a bad batch of fuel picked up somewhere.

Either way, check your grounds as it could very easily be as simple as oxidation under a connection killing a crucial grounding point. After that, with the truck at an idle open the fuel drain petcock. If it stalls, then your problem is lift pump related(IE bad OPS, Relay, pump itself) If not, your IP may be warn and reaching the end of its life.

 

[buddy]

That is an optical sensor fault. It could be that it is dying, or it could be that you have some jacked up fuel.

Did someone put something in the fuel tank they shouldnt have??

What type of fuel is used and what additives? Any strong solvents used recently?

 

[gahammerle]

I got fuel (#2) at the same place I've been getting it for a year. I always add Diesel Kleen +cetane.

Just went out and started it - opened the valve at the front and it died within a couple of seconds, no fuel came out. Did this twice. I felt the lift pump vibrating while it was running. Checked pin G and had 0 volts. Does that mean bad OPS?

Here's my checklist - gonna go out and clean the grounds now.

Demographics: tell us about your truck and your ambient conditions:

- Year: 1995
- Truck model and class (ie: c2500) c2500
- Automatic or Standard auto
- Mileage: (indicate miles or km) 205,000 miles
- Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc) Heath PMD
- Model: ‘S’ or ‘F’ engine, NA or Turbo, EGR? S Turbo
- Ambient outside temp: (indicate *C or *F) 60 F
- What fuel are you using? (#1 Diesel, #2 Diesel, Bio, VO, WVO, etc) #2
- What fuel additives are you using? Diesel Kleen +cetane
- Where are you located? Lebanon, OH

General maintenance: inspect and evaluate the condition of each. When were they last changed?
- Air filter 8,000 miles
- Fuel filter 9,000 miles
- CDR Valve? _________
- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at _____________
- Oil – synthetic/regular, changed at Rotell T, changed about 1,000 miles ago
- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced at: 1 yr old matched set
- Battery cables and grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened): doing that now
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them? 3,000 What type? bosch duraterms
- Injectors - last changed at _______________


History: (Describe how the problem first appeared.)
- What were you doing when it happened? coming to a stop
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared? ran great, 700 mile round trip to TN
- Has this problem ever happened before? No
- Describe any related factors that might be part of the problem. __________
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? (Y.N) Y And? 18, 19, 35, 54


Diagnostics:

1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start? Yes
1b] Does the engine crank over? Yes
1c] Are your batteries fully charged? Yes
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections? ________
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time? How long? Yes, 4-5 seconds
1f] Does your glow plug light come on? _________ For how long? _________
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking? What color? No

2] Fuel Issues (if not running):
2a] Can you hear your lift pump working? Yes
2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? None
2c] Loosen the inlet line from the IP – is fuel coming out (Lift Pump on)? ___________
2d] Loosen an injector line and crank the engine - does fuel come out? _________
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? ___________

3] PMD / IP Issues
3a] Location of PMD (on pump, on intake, remote mounted) Heath Remote
3b] Condition of Extension harness (if used) Vendor or Homemade? Good, Heath
3c] Condition of grounds / ground wires to IP / PMD. Check Harness. _________
3d] PMD Make: Heath
3e] PMD Age: 1 yr, 9,000 miles

4] Stalling Issues
4a] Do you experience stalling only when hot? ____________
4b] Does it stall under particular circumstances? (ie hit bump, or on accel) ______
4c] Does pouring cool water over the IP seem to help with restarting? _________
4d] Is stalling momentary (engine recovers)? _________
4e] Does SES light come on when engine hiccups? Yes
4f] Does cruise control quit working when engine hiccups? ___________
4g] Does re-starting seem to reset engine, restoring cruise and power? _________
4h] Changes to dash lights or instruments during stalling events? ___________

5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up? _______
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank? _______
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)? No
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? No
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? No

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges? Yes
6b] Maximum boost under load? 9
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip? ______________
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover? 4" no kitty, has muffler
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum? vacuum

7] Temperature-related Issues:
7a] Single or dual thermostats? single
7b] Have you replaced them lately? Manufacturer of replacements? No
7c] Have you pulled and cleaned Radiator and coolers lately? No
7d] Have you replaced the fan clutch? Manufacturer of replacement? ________
7e] (winter) Have you tested your antifreeze? Good to what temp? __________
7f] (winter) Are you using a winter grille cover? ___________

List and describe any other factors which are not addressed in this checklist. We can’t see, hear, smell, or touch your truck, so the more descriptive information you can give, the more likely it is that somebody can assist you.

 

[NVW]

With no power to pin G the OPS is likely toast. Supply power to pin G with a jumper to check the LP to make sure it works as well.

Leo

 

[buddy]

There will only be power to pin G of OBD1 port while truck is running, if there is none should mean the OPS is toast.

If you can feel the LP vibrating though it is getting power, and if there is no power on pin G then the line to pin G is broken.

try putting in some Seafoam diesel conditioner instead of Diesel Klean. Or some 2cycle oil instead.

 

[JMJNet]

You are close.

As suggested put 12V to Pin G to see if LP is running by opening the t-valve. If it does not shut down, then the OPS is bad. You need to get steady stream of fuel out of the t-valve. If it shut down than LP is definitely bad. But if you don't get steady stream then LP on its way out, may want to change it since it is cheaper than IP. Of course, sounds like OPS may already be bad.

 

[BigBlueChevy]

There ya have it. frankly, I replaced both my LP and OPS when I was having stalling issues not to far back. The LP can be picked up from places like Rock auto and Heath Diesel and same with the OPS. So whom ever you choose to get the parts get the other while you at it. This way you will feel better knowing both won't fail for a while. General recomendation - While replacing the LP I STRONGLY advise you have less than a 1/4 tank of fuel and the truck facing up on an incline of some sort. You don't want a bath in diesel fuel

 

[gahammerle]

You don't want a bath in diesel fuel

You don't think my wife would appreciate me sprinkling on some Ode de Diesel No. 2?

I replaced the lift pump about a year ago. I'm getting ready to go out and put power to pin G to see if it runs.

While looking at how difficult it would be to get to the OPS, I noticed that I'm missing 1 of the 2 bolts that hold the filter bracket in place. Guess a PO moved it out of the way to replace the OPS and only put 1 bolt back in. Guess I should get another bolt from the hardware store too.

 

[buddy]

Just so its clear, putting power to pin G is only good idea if there isnt already 14V there. So when the truck isnt running and when OPS is dead. If the truck is running you need to check if there is 14V there first (which would come from OPS). Which I think the OP did, but for anyone else reading dont want to confuse them.

 

[JMJNet]

By the way, if you replace OPS, make sure to get a genuine ACDelco. Otherwise, you will keep replacing them every couple of months or so.

 

[gahammerle]

Is it common for OPS & lift pumps to fail at the same time? I just ran power directly to the lift pump and nothing. I just replaced it about a year ago - 9,000 miles.

I ordered the OPS extension hose from Leroy so I should get that next week. I'm also gonna add an OPS/LP relay as written up here:
http://www.dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?t=4464

Just have to make sure I get the right relay as noted later in that thread. Do you think the relay in a fuel pump relay kit from places like Summit Racing or Jegs would work?

 

[buddy]

Yeah, any real automotive 12V relay is fine. Like a 20 amp one would be good enough.

 

[Turbine Doc]

Just so its clear, putting power to pin G is only good idea if there isnt already 14V there. So when the truck isnt running and when OPS is dead. If the truck is running you need to check if there is 14V there first (which would come from OPS). Which I think the OP did, but for anyone else reading dont want to confuse them.

FYI Buddy putting 12V to lift at pin G is factory troubleshooting procedure from my 94 OBD-1 service manual so should be no harm no foul, also handy way to prime a filter mgr

 

[Turbine Doc]

Yeah, any real automotive 12V relay is fine. Like a 20 amp one would be good enough.

IIRC draw on running lift is about 1.6-1.8 amps, 20 amp would work, but any automotive relay over 5 amp would be sufficient, I don't know if you would want to put a in-line fuse in the lift pump power side out of the relay, I did it on mine probably overkill.

 

[buddy]

FYI Buddy putting 12V to lift at pin G is factory troubleshooting procedure from my 94 OBD-1 service manual so should be no harm no foul, also handy way to prime a filter mgr

I completely agree, but the service manual doesnt say turn truck on first. Put 12V to it when truck is off to test LP or to prime filter assembly.

If truck is running, check for B+ voltage first, if its already there on the OBD pin then OPS is already sending B+ to the LP.

 

[gahammerle]

OK, got my OPS extension hose on, and a new OPS. When I pulled the connector to the OPS, I noticed one of the wires had been spliced and the spliced wire was cut - rough cut probably from rubbing. I found the other side and traced it to a relay. A previous owner had already done the OPS relay mod so that saved me the time of doing that. Although, this one was getting power from a post on the underhood fuse/relay box. I put my new relay in place of the old one. Changed the fuel filter, primed it, and fired it up. Got fuel coming out of the T-handle, closed it, then shut down. Heard the lift pump running for a couple seconds. :thumbsup: Started it back up, hooked up GMTD ScanTech and drove down the street. After about a mile, I jumped on it and it stumbled and SES came on. Pulled in the drive and checked codes:

18 - Pump cam reference pulse error
54 - PCM fuel circuit error

Also, I noticed my in dash oil pressure gauge stayed at 40 - didn't move at all. I also didn't have any voltage at pin G while it was running.

So, I fixed the no fuel at the T-handle, but still have the original issue of codes, and added another of the oil pressure gauge stuck at 40.

 

[buddy]

You may have hooked up the power incorrectly or the PO ran their own wires and didnt leave the power from the LP relay and OPS tied together. The power to pin G comes from the non-energized state of the LP relay, through the contact 87a or whatever. So if PO ran own wires who know your LP relay may have been cut out of the loop alltogether. The relay only powers LP during cranking. Put truck in gear and then turn key to START and see if LP runs. If not the crank fuse is blown, LP relay is inop, or PO cut it out of the loop all together.

Are you running some sort of biodiesel or WVO, or add any additives recently? 18 is from the OS, as though it is not reporting any timing signal as if it were completely blinded from dark fuel. Of course then it would go to CPS only for timing and limp mode to cause your stumbling and maybe the 54.

What is your TDCO and idle IP timing?