• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Engine assembly

Viton would be my choice too.
Or if available, teflon like what the Cummins runs. Those seals are run dry. Not even oily fingers is suppose to touch those.
 
I'm finally getting around to installing the rear main sill. The problem I have is figuring out how to use the tool. The cone is smaller than the RMS.
 

Attachments

  • 20220402_090854.jpg
    20220402_090854.jpg
    111.7 KB · Views: 6
The one you have is for the 6 cylinder 3800 gm engine- I think.
The 2.0 uses a similar tool also.

That is the design of kentmoore who makes almost all the specialty tools for gm
 
You can easily put those seals on with no tools.At least that’s the way I do it.I usually just grab the seal in the palm of my hand and rotate it as I’m gradually pushing inward and then use a wooden dowel and gradually tap it in all the way around going from side to side and from top to bottom until it’s flush with the cap.I never experienced any leaks after doing that way.Lubricate your crank sealing surface before you install the seal.Hope this helps.

I usually wait until the engine is off the stand and on the shop floor before I put the 1 piece seal on there.
 
And be sure to pack the spring cavity of the seal with grease. That will keep the spring from popping out of its groove.
If the outer housing of the seal is steel, coat that outer housing with some good sealer. I usually use No.1 permatex in the brush in cap bottle. Coat the outer diameter of the steel shell and also coat the inner diameter of the seal bore too.
It just really sucks to have a leak after assembling a new seal into positikn.
If the outer diameter of the seal is rubber, then use an approved lube on the OD. If there is no preffered lube listed then use whatever You are going to use for engine oil.
 
The labels on the handle have a couple different numbers on them because they came originally in a kit where 1 handle gets used on a couple different cups. So the kit would have 2 handles and 4 cups that worked on multiple engines.
The label usually says the “j” number and what engine engine that cup fits. Mine does, thats how I knew the smaller cup is for the 3800. Look at the two pics I just posted. That is two sides of same tool.
 
I scrolled up to look at your picture, I can’t zoom in on my phone to read it clearly. But I think you have the 3800 cup. Did you get the whole kit or that one cup and handle?
 
Will L. said:
I scrolled up to look at your picture, I can’t zoom in on my phone to read it clearly. But I think you have the 3800 cup. Did you get the whole kit or that one cup and handle?
Click to expand...
Mine is the 3800 only. No other cups. Live and learn. I guess I'll need to rebuild a 3800 to get my money's worth out of the tool. 😁
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top