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Electric to manual shift t case

chevyCowboy

I might be crazy but i ain't dumb
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Springfield Nebraska
My 96 has the push button shift transfer case and when you do get it in two four-wheel drive it makes a very bad sound like the chain is stretched or something. Rather than rebuild that one I have a floor shift case out of a 95 parts truck. Wondering what wiring I need to take from the 95 to make it work in the 96 or if the plugs that are there have all the right wiring. I assume I will have extra wires on the 96
 
I'm not entirely sure, but you can get at least some of the wiring harness figured out if you buy the upgrade kit for changing from the thermal activated actuator to the electric motor style of '97+


I have a manual transmission so I'm not sure how different the wiring is on the 4L80. But it's pretty simple on the manual t- case, one switch on the 241 is what activates the front actuator, and I think another plug on the output shaft of the 241 is for the speedometer. I would guess the 4wd activation switch would be the same, but whether the 4L80 gets the speedo input from the same location I know not. If you search for the upgrade to the electric motor actuator linked above you'll probably find some wiring schematics for the entire 4wd system which would hopefully give the info you need.
 
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No clue on the difference- but that sound of chain stretch (like when you were a kid and your bike chain slipped) is exactly what happens.

The chains stretch just like a timing chain except if you barely slip it any no damage is done. If it slips hard where you feel the truck jerk like dumping the clutch on accident- it can destroy multiple parts.

There is a simple kit that is a new chain, and the two little plastic pads on the shift fork that you can put in for under $100 and is easy to do. I have never heard of anyone not able to do it right even first time trying it. I really suggest taking the time to do this to the used t case before installing it-

Also- maybe pull the other t case and see if any gears got broken. Once the t case is out - it’s only like 15 minutes to disassemble and inspect. Just draining the oil first before pulling is only thing to do different than pull and discard.
 
I've done the rebuild on a NP-241C and it's not that hard. Probably could do one in an hour now.

Does your '96 have the NVG 246 with AWD? I have one of those in my '99 and they are more involved with the clutches for AWD. I bought a rebuilt and I'm still dealing with the electrical to get the shifting to work. I turned it over to my local guy in Montana who loves to trouble shoot electrical.
 
I've done the rebuild on a NP-241C and it's not that hard. Probably could do one in an hour now.

Does your '96 have the NVG 246 with AWD? I have one of those in my '99 and they are more involved with the clutches for AWD. I bought a rebuilt and I'm still dealing with the electrical to get the shifting to work. I turned it over to my local guy in Montana who loves to trouble shoot electrical.
No it does not Im just having issues with the push button shift and then the sound of the chain stretching and had a parts truck with the floor shift so thought I'd just swap but maybe it's just as easy to rebuild
 
A buddy had a 243 case laying around. Bought it from him for $100 went to put it in the other night and turns out they are different number of splines on the input shaft. My truck has 32 splines and the doner case has 27. Can I split the case and just swap the input shafts?
 
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