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Drivers door

haggus

Member
Messages
220
Reaction score
5
Location
Sooke BC
Driver's door won't open I just attempted the kodiak handle install on the drivers side and something went really wrong. I can't open door from the inside or the outside. This one has me at standstill I can't remove the handle because the door is shut and I am trying to acces it from the interior but I am not sure how to approach this. Anyone ever experience this maybe you can point me in a direction to at least get the door open.


Thanks

:mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2:
 
I should be able to remove the interior panels in the EC and just loosen the catch so the door will open anyone know if the striker can be removed from behind the door?
 
It's fixed let me tell getting your door open from the inside is a PITA. Anyway couple of mods to the rods on the drivers handle and she is in. The passenger side took all of 20 min to swap It is always easier the second time.

I think I have had my door skins off the truck more times than I have had the wife's panties off must rectify that situation ASAP.

I found a nice looking parts truck I'm going to check out if he will lower his asking price.

http://www.usedvictoria.com/classif...Sierra-1500-z71-65L-turbo-diesel-4x4_20079367
 
Wow! why a parts truck!!? that thing looks really nice.

On the Kodiak handles: I had the same thing happen in my "leaning curve" too. Basicaly if the rod is to long it wont allow the latch to reset completely as tension is always applied. The rod must be just the right length. Short enough to allow a reset and long enough that the handle when squeezed will engauge the latch with enough throw to operate the latch.

And yes you must work on those panties alittle more too. One mod I have found to be helpful is to bring some flowers :flowers1:
 
Wow! why a parts truck!!? that thing looks really nice.

On the Kodiak handles: I had the same thing happen in my "leaning curve" too. Basicaly if the rod is to long it wont allow the latch to reset completely as tension is always applied. The rod must be just the right length. Short enough to allow a reset and long enough that the handle when squeezed will engauge the latch with enough throw to operate the latch.

And yes you must work on those panties alittle more too. One mod I have found to be helpful is to bring some flowers :flowers1:

I have to go by and see it I was thinking of swapping the interior into mine. If it is something simple like a pmd than I can fix it up and sell it if not I can probably take what I want and part out the rest. I would take those bumpers off and switch them with mine If it is a simple enough fix say under 500.00 I could get it running and get 2500.00 for it pretty easy.

The part where it says it hasn't run in 2 years is kind of my concern.
 
Good to see you got it open. One thing i learned when my door latch failed. The easiest way seems to be rolling down the window. Remove the outer piece of weather stripping and you can reach down inside there with a long screw driver and push down on the lever. Thats how i got my door open.
 
Wow! why a parts truck!!? that thing looks really nice.

On the Kodiak handles: I had the same thing happen in my "leaning curve" too. Basicaly if the rod is to long it wont allow the latch to reset completely as tension is always applied. The rod must be just the right length. Short enough to allow a reset and long enough that the handle when squeezed will engauge the latch with enough throw to operate the latch.

And yes you must work on those panties alittle more too. One mod I have found to be helpful is to bring some flowers :flowers1:

X2! That thing puts my truck to shame. Bad!
 
X2! That thing puts my truck to shame. Bad!

He says it started to knock and he parked it because he doesn't want to put any money into it. I wonder if it's just an injector but if it's a rod I wouldn't even give him 500.00 around here vehicles especially bodies last forever my 95 looks just as good so it's no big deal but mechanical now that;s a different story and this truck has been parked for 2 years.
 
Update I went by with a friend who wants a 6.5 we got the engine to crank but you could see the blowby out the oil tube. Interior was not as mint as I thought still offered him 500 for it but he wasn't taking it. The pics looked way better than the actual truck up close there was rust around the rear wheels and front it had eaten through in a couple of spots.

I work with the guy and ran into him while he was doing a rigging job he said he got 750 for it not a bad deal for a parts truck more than I was willing to shell out for a 6 bolt 2500 4x4 but it is almost worth that in scrap or maybe more in parts.
 
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