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door handle (interior)

North Maine

Merchant Mariner
Messages
369
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0
Location
Fort Kent, ME
like iamdave's question, this isnt a "6.5" thing, more of a 6.5 body style thing... by interior drivers door handle just failed, all of the sudden. How hard is this to repair?
 
Yep, sometimes you need to get creative, get used to taking the door panel off, the first attempt may not hold as you don't really have super easy access inside there..

Mine failed on me 3 or 4 times before it finally took, whatever I did, that was over a year ago (knock on wood)

While your at it, it's a good time to throw in a 40$ set of nice speakers to replace the rusted out cheap grills that factory gave you, probably rusted out cheap papercone speaker also if yours is like mine.

new speaks dress up the entire door nicely.
 
I snap those interior door handles all the time...... there are two kinds.....one is flush and the other is wing shaped, it's made out of some kind of cheap cast metal I think.
I break about 1 or 2 a year.

Louis
 
I have replaced a few myself....I could have sworn that they are held in with rivets from the factory that had to be drilled out...its been a few years since I've done it though....
 
wing style on mine were riveted in, replaced drivers side last year, LMC truck is where I got the new one, self tapping screw/bolt on the replacement

Yup, same here. Drilled rivet out and replaced with a screw.

IMPORTANT: Make sure after you replace your handle, you bend your rod so you need very little pull on the new handle to open the door.
 
Excuse my post, it seems I was referring to the linkeages inside the door panel coming apart. I have yet to experience the actual handle problems.
 
Yup, same here. Drilled rivet out and replaced with a screw.

IMPORTANT: Make sure after you replace your handle, you bend your rod so you need very little pull on the new handle to open the door.


Maybe that's why I keep breaking them?........It's the actual thin part of the handle closest to were it goes into the panel, Correct?

Louis
 
Yeah Louis, the white metal GM uses just sucks. Over the years I've learned to have very little pull on handle to open the door from the inside. It takes a bit of time to bend the rod to the best exact bend, but well worth the effort.
 
I had the linkeage problem also. Was a real PITA for the fix to stick.

I bent the end of the linkeage a tad so when it fit back into the other linkeage it didn't fall apart, I also then put gorilla glue over the entire connection so it foamed up, but kept using the door handle gently so it didnt' buind movement. WHen it was all dried, it had a ball of glue foam holding the 2 linkeages together, but they weren't actually glued tight together (so they didn't bind) because I kept carefully using the handle every 10-15 minutes to make sure they duidbn;'t. Worked for 1.5yrs so far.

Did take me about 5 months and numerous door panel pop=offs to find a fix to stick.
 
hahaha......all this talk of door handles made me pull off my pass door panel and bend the rod. I was telling my wife about this thread, and she told me her door handle may need to be looked at. A bend or two and she works great again.
 
Gotta do mine tomorrow, doesn't want to open unless handle is back as tight as it'll go. obviously linkage. oh..., and I also gotta my lower ball joints and idler bracket and arm and pitman and maybe the tierods......:rolleyes5:
 
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