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Dmax for sale, needs Head Gasket

The early trucks had headgasket issues. It was the gasket itself that failed not the head bolts.

The new gaskets are riveted versus crimped and are much better.

A dealer will rape you on HGs. Book time is 32 hours IIRC. Plus the HGs and all of the down time because it takes them forever to get the gaskets and they usually wont order them until they tear it down.

There are 3 different gaskets for non-machined duramaxes. A, B and C. with A being the thinnest and C being the thickest.

They really arent too bad to do providing you have moderate mechanical experience. Most people including dealers do them in the truck, others lift the cab off and I like to pull the motor. Pulling the motor doesnt take long, and makes life a lot easier which means less chance for screwups.

If you do them yourself expect to have under $500 in parts and such.

And if you need help or guidance with them let me know.
 
I would bet the farm the cups are leaking, 15K ago it had injectors done.

:D

Got to watch NY trucks, if it has rot already it may be a rust bucket under neath............:eek:..............NY loves nasty salt and calcium chloride for ice control, especially upsate NY.

Looks like a deal for $6500 though.

:smile5:
 
I was thinking 7k. I won't ssay I can't do the job because when time is one my side and not under pressure I don't think there is anything I can't figure out or tackle. sometimes I send stuff out because I just don't have the time to do it but something like this I could probably do. How hard is it to get the thing started once the nut and bolt work is done ? Is there anything intricate or is it just time consuming ? I think the Dodge is sold so now I'm really looking but I'm beginning to come to the conclusion that I'm better off buying something like his cheap KNOWING it needs HG's than pay top dollar and then buy a truck and have them go anyway. I paid top dollar for the dodge thinking I wouldn't have to touch it and it was just the opposite. It left me on the side of the road more times than all my 6.5TDs combined. What does the cups leaking mean ? Yeah anything upsate NY or New england usually pretty rusty which could add to the pain of the HG job.
 
aces, i would be willing to lend a hand if your wanting to tackle them yourself. they are not to bad to do, just very time consuming. there is alot of intricate hoses and gaskets on the lb7 engines with the fuel lines and return lines.

i do agree with tony though, i would find out when the injectors were done and see if it coincides with the time he started recognizing the leak. dont tell him this though:). much easier to fix. here at the shop, i have seen a shit ton more lly/lbz head gaskets than lb7.
 
The cups very well copuld be leaking, good point tony. There are a lot of acreless mechanics out there who dont pa attention to the cups when doing injectors.

What you could do to be safe, is get a set of HGs, theyre about $220 from everywhere. If you want to get the correct ones for the motor you will have to see if you can find the marks on them. IIRC they stick out the front on the drivers side and the rear on the passenger side.

There will be two notches. One will be longer than the other. If the dot in the notch is closest to the valley then the gasket is an "A", if its in the middle then its a "B" if its away from the valley then its a "C". They can be different from side to side as well. A set of "C"s will fit no matter what, but they do lower the compression a touch if the motor didnt already have "C"s.

Then if you really want to be safe you can pull all of the injectors and cups. For reinstallation you will need two injector install kits. Many companies sell these I cant remember the brand. Pensacola diesel has then for under $30, check with Tony he might be able to get you the kit. The Kit comes with new o-rings for the injectors and new copper washers as well as the return line seals and a lower valve cover gasket.

Then for the cups you will need 16 of the orange o-rings for them and some Red loctite.

I dont know how much a dealer sharges to do a return rate test but if you are worried about the injectors it may be worth getting them checked too. Since you will have it tore down that far.

You will also need a couple of other misc seals. But in the end providing you dont have to replace any injectors, you shouldnt be out more than $550 in parts.
 
Not a bad job, plan on spending quality time with your new rig :) I agree with the above, check the injector cups too.
 
soooooo stage 4 tranny....edge w/ the hot unlock, 4" turbo back exhaust...lift pump and boost valve? naaaaaah no way anyone ever beat on this truck......if you do end up getting it and need to do a head job make sure you do it right...put in head studs and like the other guys said cups...
 
HemisAreSlow said:
soooooo stage 4 tranny....edge w/ the hot unlock, 4" turbo back exhaust...lift pump and boost valve? naaaaaah no way anyone ever beat on this truck......if you do end up getting it and need to do a head job make sure you do it right...put in head studs and like the other guys said cups...
Click to expand...

That's the part scaring me. I don't want a melted motor.
 
If you can get it for $6500-$7000 I would buy it !

My buddy just did HG/cups on his 2002, he pulled the motor and did it out of the truck, much easier than in the truck.

While it was out he did pan gasket, rear main seal, waterpump, head studs/gaskets and IIRC he cut the heads 4 thousandth to clean them up and went with "C" gaskets.

All went well.

I can find out what he spent, but even if you are in it for $10K when you are done it is still well worth it.

:D
 
stacks04 said:
aces, i would be willing to lend a hand if your wanting to tackle them yourself. they are not to bad to do, just very time consuming. there is alot of intricate hoses and gaskets on the lb7 engines with the fuel lines and return lines.

i do agree with tony though, i would find out when the injectors were done and see if it coincides with the time he started recognizing the leak. dont tell him this though:). much easier to fix. here at the shop, i have seen a shit ton more lly/lbz head gaskets than lb7.
Click to expand...

Thanks.
 
what are you looking to spend kenny? Guy down the road from me has an immaculate cummins that he only runs in the summer time to tow a small race car trailer...I can ask him what he wants for it if you like
 
Ridge_Runner_Diesel said:
If you can get it for $6500-$7000 I would buy it !

My buddy just did HG/cups on his 2002, he pulled the motor and did it out of the truck, much easier than in the truck.

While it was out he did pan gasket, rear main seal, waterpump, head studs/gaskets and IIRC he cut the heads 4 thousandth to clean them up and went with "C" gaskets.

All went well.

I can find out what he spent, but even if you are in it for $10K when you are done it is still well worth it.

:D
Click to expand...

x2 much easier with it out of the truck.

Another thing to note is that you will be getting money when you sell that Edge. Which you will be selling hopefully.
 
durallymax said:
x2 much easier with it out of the truck.

Another thing to note is that you will be getting money when you sell that Edge. Which you will be selling hopefully.
Click to expand...

i have done them both ways, both ways have there benefits. to do the studs, i would rather it be out though.
 
in my experience the cups are difficult to pin point. with out disassembly. maybe others have found different. if so i would love to learn.
 
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